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  • Engine: Heat with the 4 speed

    Avanti r2 4 speed dose not need a heater
    There is plenty of engine heat coming up through the rubber boot around the shifter Has anyone have a cure for this problem

  • #2
    Not exclusive to R2 4 speed. Ours is R1 power shift and plenty hot. Saved by the fact that the AC works.
    Don Wilson, Centralia, WA

    40 Champion 4 door*
    50 Champion 2 door*
    53 Commander K Auto*
    53 Commander K overdrive*
    55 President Speedster
    62 GT 4Speed*
    63 Avanti R1*
    64 Champ 1/2 ton

    * Formerly owned

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    • #3
      You must start by ascertaining if there is a steel reinforcing plate under the console cover, this plate covers almost the entire opening of the shifter coming up from the trans. Then you must be certain that your shift boot is fully attached under the console cover and finished with the round chrome ring, if yours is an early example, the shift boot lower lip or flange has to be secured underneath and not moving....insuring these two aspect will curtail most of the heat maladies.
      Originally posted by orecrush View Post
      Avanti r2 4 speed dose not need a heater
      There is plenty of engine heat coming up through the rubber boot around the shifter Has anyone have a cure for this problem

      Comment


      • #4
        heat floor shift

        Originally posted by Hawklover View Post
        You must start by ascertaining if there is a steel reinforcing plate under the console cover, this plate covers almost the entire opening of the shifter coming up from the trans. Then you must be certain that your shift boot is fully attached under the console cover and finished with the round chrome ring, if yours is an early example, the shift boot lower lip or flange has to be secured underneath and not moving....insuring these two aspect will curtail most of the heat maladies.
        Thanks for info. My Avanti has a hurst shift so i will work on closeing up the gap under the console

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        • #5
          You need a Console Cooling Kit, #1562554, as addressed in Service Letter F-1964-6, CONSOLE COOLING KIT - AVANTI MODELS WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING, dated December 5, 1963. (Their capital letters, not mine.)

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          • #6
            Ok Just where am I going to find a console cooling kit How did Studebaker get the cool air from ??

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            • #7
              Flexible ducting connected to the heater air intake plenum chamber...

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              • #8
                This kit has not be available in more years than I can remember. It is not a plug-n-play situation...I am looking at the aforementioned service letter and it is involved! The instructions run three pages (8.5X11) I suggest you get a copy and look for yourself. Also call Jon Myer and ask if he has this kit in his stash of thousands of parts....you may get lucky, but read the instructions first!!
                Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
                You need a Console Cooling Kit, #1562554, as addressed in Service Letter F-1964-6, CONSOLE COOLING KIT - AVANTI MODELS WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING, dated December 5, 1963. (Their capital letters, not mine.)

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                • #9
                  Also make sure you have a good gasket under the plate!
                  Plate is p/n 1556327, they say up to s/n 4849, but that is a mistake that plate was utilized all the way to the end of production on 4 and 3 speeds.
                  Gasket p/n is 1557275

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                  • #10
                    I also covered the tunnel everywhere with a carbon fiber insulation, with a small piece inside the rubber boot. That helps huge amount. I then found that a lot of heat was coming out from under the dash and fashioned some covers like found on many modern cars. That helped too. Still, it is a not car no mater what.
                    Ron Dame
                    '63 Champ

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Click image for larger version

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ID:	1724052I have made the console cooling many times, Use a small bathroom sink drain flange, (one with threads and no pop up ), and use that with the companion nuts, and gaskets. A lot easier to install than the factory kit. Use a dishwasher, or washing machine drain hose for the cooling tubes. Click image for larger version

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                      Last edited by bezhawk; 10-14-2018, 08:55 AM.
                      Bez Auto Alchemy
                      573-318-8948
                      http://bezautoalchemy.com


                      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                      • #12
                        Here's my 2 cents.

                        This last year I swapped a T10 for the original Powershift transmission.

                        The steel plate that mounts the PS shifter can clear a Hurst shifter. It took very little effort to fabricat a ring to mount to the steel plate to sandwich a leather shift boot. The real problem isn't to get enough air through there but to keep the hot air out of the cabin. If you have a leak adding more air only makes it different, not necessarily better. With the Powershift, you need all the air you can get to cool that little thermo-nuclear heat generator, the T10 isn't a problem.

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                        • #13
                          Brad are you assuming that the OP can effectively effectuate such a repair to his car?? It's one thing to express what you have done, and quite another to assume that that can be done by others.
                          Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                          [ATTACH=CONFIG]76354[/ATTACH]I have made the console cooling many times, Use a small bathroom sink drain flange, (one with threads and no pop up ), and use that with the companion nuts, and gaskets. A lot easier to install than the factory kit. Use a dishwasher, or washing machine drain hose for the cooling tubes. [ATTACH=CONFIG]76352[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]76353[/ATTACH]

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                          • #14
                            Those steel plates are available from Jon Myer, both for AT as well as manual shift
                            Originally posted by spokejr View Post
                            Here's my 2 cents.

                            This last year I swapped a T10 for the original Powershift transmission.

                            The steel plate that mounts the PS shifter can clear a Hurst shifter. It took very little effort to fabricat a ring to mount to the steel plate to sandwich a leather shift boot. The real problem isn't to get enough air through there but to keep the hot air out of the cabin. If you have a leak adding more air only makes it different, not necessarily better. With the Powershift, you need all the air you can get to cool that little thermo-nuclear heat generator, the T10 isn't a problem.

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