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Wiring 50 Champion fog light switch

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  • Wiring 50 Champion fog light switch

    Adding a fog light switch to the dash on my 50 Champion. The switch has three connections. The diagram seems to show one end of the built in 20 amp fuse on the switch to be going to the headlamp switch. The other end of the fuse has two connections. One connector is shown going to the lamps and the other to the ammeter. I believe all the auxiliary loads must go through the ammeter (series) and then to each load. The connection at the ammeter is also used for the cigarette lighter. It’s no fun wiring to the ammeter so I could could connect the wire to the cigarette lighter. But circuit wise I can’t figure out what’s going on with the power to the lamps and the connection to the head lamp switch. Any thoughts from the wiring gurus what’s going on here?Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by earthtechy; 08-31-2018, 06:01 AM. Reason: Revise year - was in error

  • #2
    While it may work, do you know that is not the correct switch for a '49? Also, I see your diagram is for '50.
    KURTRUK
    (read it backwards)




    Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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    • #3
      A 47-9 switch also has 3 connections and a fuse
      Milt

      1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
      1961 Hawk 4-speed
      1967 Avanti
      1961 Lark 2 door
      1988 Avanti Convertible

      Member of SDC since 1973

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      • #4
        Sorry fellas. I have a 49 and a 50. The car I’m working on is a 50. Revised the text in the post.

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        • #5
          On my '48 Coupe, I have a set of factory fog lamps. When wiring them up, it never occurred to me to consult the wiring diagram because I already knew what I wanted to do. I have a fog light switch, but had used it to power my aftermarket (period correct) steering column mounted auxiliary fan. I felt that with the fan (two speed) the switch could serve well as either a FAN switch or FOG LIGHT switch since it is simply labeled with "F." For the fog lights, I used one of those rheostat switches often used for dash lights to brighten & dim them. On my fog lights, I can vary the brightness using this switch. Since it is a plain stock knob (appropriate black with gold center) for my car's year, no one (until now) has ever questioned it.

          On your '50...you have a few options that is totally up to you as to how you want your lights to operate. Pick a power source (hot wire) that can handle the current, and then you run your wires to the lights. You can run a single wire to the front area and tee-off (split) to the two lights there, or run two separate wires from the switch (one for each light). Or, you could do the first option and use the other switch power terminal to add a "tell-tell" light somewhere at the instrument panel as a "fog lights on" indicator.

          Although the switch seems to be built substantial (20 amp fuse) to handle the current, you could even add a relay and use the switch to power the relay...an even safer option.

          I'm not sure how safe my goofy little arrangement is on my coupe, or if dimming the bulbs with a rheostat switch is good for the bulbs. I did it mainly for show, and rarely ever drive the car after dark or turn on the fog lights. I do have inline fuses for my accessories, and hope they are sufficient. I could be wrong, but on some of my Studes, there is a main circuit breaker at the ammeter. Wiring accessories through that power source should be a good safety back-up even if the accessory has its own fuse.

          One other option is to pick up you fog light power from the "dim" light terminal on you dimmer-switch for the headlights. Since fog lights should never need to be used in conjunction with bright lights, this would insure that the fog lights would only be used when your lights are dimmed, and the headlights are on. That way, as long as you turn off your headlights when leaving your car, you won't forget the fog lights and run your battery down.

          It's your car...the options are yours.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            Very good suggestions. I like the power from the headlight dimmer switch but I have to check to see if that power would be routed through another protective device (fuse or breaker) cause I don’t want to overload the device.
            I guess in your setup you may not seeing the fog light load on your ammeter. It would nice if that was possible in this instance.
            I’m very used to ladder diagrams where the the power supply is routed through the fuse, switch an then to the load. The diagram here is prepared for the wire installer.

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            • #7
              I have a 54 sedan (W) body and the headlight switch has a separate terminal for fog lights, the switch is up for on, center for off and down for fog lights. The supply is all through the circuit breaker. The switch design will not allow the headlights to be on with the fog lights. In the day, some States and Provinces would prohibit headlights and fog lights to be on together because of excessive candle power. Fog lights were required to be focused in the same manner as head lights. Some of the high candle power lights to day can only be on when the main head lights are selected on high beam.

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