door panel backer

[Michidan]

I am passing the coldest time in the shop getting a little interior work done on the 52 hardtop. I think the rear door panels came out pretty good!



As Studebaker designed. Although the top fabric is extra from the seat recover, and the bottom fabric is extra fro mthe headliner place.
This was easy enough to do becasue the rears have metal panels that everything attaches to. Now for the front panels on the doors...

I have nothing left of the originals. I need something as a backer to cut to size and attach fabric too. Surely not cardboard, but what do folks use for this? Something waterproof I am thinking.

Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[epssax]

My '55 hdtp coupe has masonite board as a backer. Appears to be no thicker than 3/16". I have to replace one as the bottom was soaked in moisture and has crumbled.

[64V-K7]

Windber restorations (www.restorationspecialties.com) sells waterproof backer for door panels

Bob Johnstone

[rockne10]

I've used materials from Restoration Specialties; it is the correct material. It's the same panel Ernie Loga uses but he does all the cutting for you.

[N8N]

Ernie Loga sells repro door boards, although I have thought that if I do custom door panels I might try something a little sturdier and more water resistant. I wonder if a sheet of styrene or something like that couldn't be made to work.

The originals are basically really dense cardboard, like you'd use for a book cover. they do warp if damp. I tried sealing them with polyurethane but that itself seems to cause a minor warp.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[vegas paul]

Most custom interior folks these days use ABS plastic sheets, available from your local upholsterer. They are about 1/8" thick, pretty sturdy, but bendable for mild contours.

Las Vegas, NV - Stop by, coffee's on!
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

[Champion51]

Hi! Here's another option. Its cheap and easy and will last as long as you're around!
Go to your local building supply dealer and get a 3' wide X 6'8" mahogany door skin. That's the stuff that all inside and some exterior doors were made of through the 60's and 70's. (If you don't need it that wide , just buy the 30" stuff) Its about 1/6" thick and I have found, ideal for door panel backing. Get a small can of marine varnish and give both sides a couple of coats (a day or so apart). Then put your old panel, as a pattern, on top and trace around it, and mark all your cutout holes as well. Make sure the grain in the wood is running cross-ways, so the panel will bend easily to match the contour of your door. Before putting on the fabric, place your "clips" on the panel-backing and determine where they will go to mate up with the mounting holes on the door backing. Mark all the clips with a pen by tracing around that portion of the clip that is on the backside of the panel, so that you know that the clip(s) haven't moved when its time to place on the fabric, as you you will be cutting out a small piece of the wrap-around material in allowance of the clip(s) on the back-side. You can do all your cutouts and corner-rounding with a sharp utility knife or a tool that will not cause splintering of the wood. On the interior side of each panel, I cutout a piece of that aluminum sided waterheater insulation wrap stuff (can't remember what its called) and held it to the panel with double-sided tape. (This stuff gives you some sound dampening and gives your panel a bit of a "cushy" or soft feel to it.) I then cutout the fabric to size, allowing an extra couple of inches to wrap around the back on the sides and top and bottom. I turned the panel upside down on the workbench and then used some of that 3M fabric panel glue which sets up in a few seconds and then stretch the fabric over the panel and press down. Be careful, as it is similar to contact cement. If you find you've not placed it quite right, it is possible to lift it up (without tearing it) and place it back down.
I then went around the glued fabric with a staple gun to satisfy myself that it would hold forever. Don't worry about the staples rusting, as they are on the back side. If you are in a wet climate and wanted to, you could smear a small dab of silicone over each staple. Don't cutout the window and door handle holes until you are satisfied everthing is going to line up. When you are ready, "measure twice, cut once" the holes for the armrests, handles and trim. I used a pointed pair of scizzors, puncturing a small hole in the centre of where each handle shaft will come through or armrest bolt or whatever. From each small hole, cut a short vertical and horizontal slit. I would'nt try cutting a circular hole as you could be off a little, and you don't need to, and this is faster and easier.
I did my panels in about 6 hours (including trial and error) for all [u]four</u> doors. Now that you know what and how to do it, you could do both your front panels in about 3 hours. This of course wouldn't include the time required to locate and buy your supplies.
The 'pros": fast, easy, cheap, durable, and real nice results.
The "cons": there aren't any.
JUST MAKE SURE YOU VARNISH YOUR PANEL BOARD !
Hope this helps and the best of luck with your project



Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

[hank63]

Buy marine-ply, it's already water resistant and comes in a variety of thicknesses.
/H

[Michidan]

Thanks guys, now we are talking. I needed a cheap solution. You've given me some good options. Will check them all out and see what works.
Interseting on the insulation stuff. I was wondering what to put behind for a bit of padding, if anything.

Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[bradnree]

We have done several door panels with coroplast=corrugated plastic. We buy it in 4 x 8 sheets, make a pattern with paper and transfer to the plastic. This is absolutely inexpensive, waterproof (wash your car daily), easy to cut. Go on line to see the product--"coroplast". We order ours from a local sign, shirt, decal shop.

Brad

[Swifster]

Like Vegas Paul mentioned, I'd use 1/8" (.125") abs plastic. Check out Roddoors.com . The plastic, available in many places, will work great, can be cut, glued, padded, etc., and will not decay. Get the video tape and it walks you thru the whole process. The tape is $10.

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Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

[Michidan]

I still have not started on the fornt panels. But I can show off the back area that is complete. Remember this car is tubbed in the rear for 15 in ch tires. If done right, it's not a problem to keep the back seat.



Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[Pete R]

If you go the Masonite route, get "tempered" Masonite (also called hardboard). It's supposed to have weather-resistant qualities that ordinary Masonite doesn't. I've used it many times for door panels. I cut it with an electric jig saw. It's cheap, available at all home stores, and works fine.

Pete R
Woodbridge, VA
1954 Studebaker Commander Regal Starlight Coupe, 3-speed w/OD
1964 Studebaker Avanti R2, 4-speed (R4399)
1974 Avanti II
1972 Chevrolet El Camino SS454, 4-speed
1999 Corvette roadster, 6-speed

[gordr]

I have tried Coroplast for stuff like this, but the variety that I got (at least) is made of polyethylene, and no glue will bond to it. Contact cement kinda-sorta sticks, but it doesn't really make a strong bond.

I had made up a number of parts bin boxes out of the stuff, and they all fell apart at the glue joints. Duct tape holds them together now.

Too bad, as it's other properties are well-suited to the job at hand.

I do keep one full sheet of it in the shop to lie upon while working under a car. Keeps me warm, even on cold wet ground, and it's easy to slide around on. Beats a creeper in every way.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[epssax]

Michidan That is some nice work. Love the colors and fabric. Ernie

'55 Regal Commander, 259/auto.
"life is a one-way ride and I'm gonna have some fun--there are no replays"