So, after getting in to the brakes, lots of brake fluid mud inside. Upside? No rusty bits! After cleaning with a can of brake cleaner, wire brush, rags, and a screwdriver, it looks presentable now. I have the cylinders and will get into them this week, cleaning and honing them. One thing about rear brakes without emergency brake levers? MUCH simpler set of brakes to deal with. This truck has the e-brake around a wheel coming out of the transmission, fyi. The shoes look nearly new from when they were last used, around 1/4" deep at the rivets evenly on both shoes. There is some oxidation on one portion of the drum, but they're otherwise not gouged or scored notably. The left brake drum has moved easily when I had the wheel off, so, now that the problem wheel's done, that one should be quicker. I need to reconnect the brake line from wheel to wheel and then connect that axle fitting to the brake line to the m/c. If the brake line from the top cylinder to the bottom cylinder doesn't flush out an major crud, I'll leave them alone. They look in good shape otherwise. I have more photos on an album on my FB page, but if you would like a copy I'd be happy to send you what I took.






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'52 2R17A rear brakes part 2
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Those appear to be Wagner Type FR2 Hi-Tork brakes, if that information is any use to you. I have a 2R17A, too, and it has similar brakes. Be advised, you have to bleed the HydroVac in two places to get a good brake pedal.Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
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Yes, I believe it is.Originally posted by LeoH View PostThanks Gord, that IS good information to know. I've also got hill holder on this beast as well.
Is the bleeding process for the hydrovac in the manual when I get to that point?Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
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