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52 pickup donor frames?

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  • 52 pickup donor frames?

    I have a 1952 pickup that i am trying to find a donor frame for but im not even sure where to start. The original frame is garbage and im looking to start over with something thats got disc brakes and updated steering and well everything. i was trying to stay away from the whole Fatman thing so...............open for ideas please help

  • #2
    Maybe a Chevy S10 2WD frame?
    --------------------------------------

    Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

    Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

    "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

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    • #3
      If you have to have a different frame measure a short wheelbase Dodge Dakota. The Dakota is really close to the Stude. The main disadvantage is that because a late model frame sweeps upward behind the cab while a Stude is fairly flat. The bend in the frame causes you to either set the bed rather high on the frame or to modify the bed floor and lose carrying space. If the truck is just for cruising the bed depth may not be an issue.

      1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, 1947 M5. Searcy,Arkansas
      "In the heart of Arkansas."
      Searcy, Arkansas
      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
      1952 2R pickup

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      • #4
        ok thanks i will get some measurements taken, i was planning on doing air suspension anyway which is another reason to go for a newer frame. Thanks for the advice im rather new to the site but i will try and get some pictures up.

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        • #5
          A buddy of mine put a 2R cab and box on a Chevy S10 extended-cab frame, which is almost exactly the right length. The finished street-rod truck does look very good.

          Not something I would do, as I'm no fan of those C-clip type rear axles Chevy used, having been burned by them in my old Suburban.

          Another approach: if the existing frame is not bent, or rusted, you can set the K-member from an Aspen or Volare right under the front frame rails of the existing frame. They basically just set right on a flat part of the K-member, and you weld it in place. No tricky butt welds or splices. (I believe there is a little clearance grinding required.)

          I have seen it done, and it works.

          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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          • #6
            Not sure where you are, but I have a Stude pickup frame that has been clipped with 79 Chevy disc brake pickup front suspension and a 79 Chevy diff hung in the stude rear. It has a Buick 3.8 with 200R trans installed. 400 clams and tow it away!
            Northwest Washington

            Brian K. Curtis,
            1925 Duplex-Phaeton ER
            1949 1/2 ton pickup
            1963 GT Hawk custom
            1966 Daytona 2dr

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            • #7
              One big problem with mounting a older truck cab is maintaining the center mount at the rear of the cab. If you don't mount the cab in the original locations, sometimes frame flex will pop the doors open. I sell a front suspension adapter kit to mount an Aerostar setup under any Studebaker truck from 1949 up. $225. It's a bolt in and you can weld it for more security. It uses existing holes for perfect alignment. Ebay item type in AEROSTAR STUDEBAKER. I'm also going to be listing a nine inch ford rearend with relocated springpads for Studebaker truck and rebuilt springs, sway bar kit and lowering blocks.

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