Finally decided to remove the manual window regulators from my 74 Avanti and install power windows. I bought the Nu-Relics units from Bob Ziff and between the instructions that came with the units and the Avanti power window video on youtube the installation went pretty well.
A few thought to leave for the future to help anyone else that may want to do the same.
- The video on youtube says you need to remove a ridge from the interior of the door for clearance. That ridge runs from the bottom of the door to the top and it needs to be removed completely from the bottom to about 6 inches from the top.
The best saw I found was a HF electric body saw with a fine tooth bi-metal blade. Why? Because you need to do all the cutting by feel and this tool is slow enough and the teeth fine enough to not take off a finger.
- Put the wiring in next. The instructions suggest running a screw through the door enough so it marks the jam to position the holes for the plastic conduit. Good luck with that approach as the door is double walled with a space between.
I decided where I wanted the wiring to come through the jam and then futzed with the conduit enough to see where I could position a hole in the door edge that I could reach with a drill and not stretch the conduit with the door open. A picture below will show where I located the conduit.
- Before the mechanism is inserted into the door, put the two bushing into the window channel. I stuffed a small wad of paper towel into the end of the channel to keep them from falling out.
- After the mechanism was inserted into the door and the electrics inserted, I found that it was easy to pop the pin into the guide that moves in the short channel attached to the door and then bolt the mechanism to the door. A couple of ice picks or small screwdrivers will help hold it in place before you start the first screw. Be sure the small channel is greased with red bearing lube.
- I left lubing the window channel and gears until the mechanism was completely installed. Popping the pins into the bushings when pretty well, you just need to find the sweet spot where the pin closest to the motor will have clearance. That's why it's nice to have the electrics wired if only to a separate battery.
A couple of shots.
And they work also.
A few thought to leave for the future to help anyone else that may want to do the same.
- The video on youtube says you need to remove a ridge from the interior of the door for clearance. That ridge runs from the bottom of the door to the top and it needs to be removed completely from the bottom to about 6 inches from the top.
The best saw I found was a HF electric body saw with a fine tooth bi-metal blade. Why? Because you need to do all the cutting by feel and this tool is slow enough and the teeth fine enough to not take off a finger.
- Put the wiring in next. The instructions suggest running a screw through the door enough so it marks the jam to position the holes for the plastic conduit. Good luck with that approach as the door is double walled with a space between.
I decided where I wanted the wiring to come through the jam and then futzed with the conduit enough to see where I could position a hole in the door edge that I could reach with a drill and not stretch the conduit with the door open. A picture below will show where I located the conduit.
- Before the mechanism is inserted into the door, put the two bushing into the window channel. I stuffed a small wad of paper towel into the end of the channel to keep them from falling out.
- After the mechanism was inserted into the door and the electrics inserted, I found that it was easy to pop the pin into the guide that moves in the short channel attached to the door and then bolt the mechanism to the door. A couple of ice picks or small screwdrivers will help hold it in place before you start the first screw. Be sure the small channel is greased with red bearing lube.
- I left lubing the window channel and gears until the mechanism was completely installed. Popping the pins into the bushings when pretty well, you just need to find the sweet spot where the pin closest to the motor will have clearance. That's why it's nice to have the electrics wired if only to a separate battery.
A couple of shots.
And they work also.
.
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