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Ignition switch

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  • Ignition: Ignition switch

    Does anyone know how to get the ignition switch out of the dash on a 1962 Studebaker Lark? I'm not real nimble to get under the dash. I don't see any notchs in the bezel to grab a hold of. Any help would be appreciated!

    Thanks, Gene
    Gene Shambaugh

  • #2
    Push really HARD from the Back of the Dash and turn the switch 1/4 Turn Counterclockwise while pushing the bezel into it's lock notch in the Dash to stop it from turning, to remove the Switch.

    Do you have a Friend, Son, Daughter, Spouse who is more limber? You may need some help here.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      Thank You, No no one handy, 50 miles away.
      Gene Shambaugh

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      • #4
        Be sure Battery is not connected.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by (S) View Post
          Be sure Battery is not connected.
          That's real good advice! Ask every single one of us how we know!
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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          • #6
            Hold the bezel with one hand while you reach under the dash with the other & turn counter clockwise (as looking at the back of the switch to the back of the car). It might be a good idea to remove the bolts holding the front seat & move it to the back seat for some additional room.
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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            • #7
              I just went through this today. Make sure the battery is disconnected. Push and turn as directed above. The pins that hold the bezel are fairly stout but if misused the slots on the bezel will break so be careful. You should actually feel it move and disconnect when done right. Be patient and good luck.

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              • #8
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	1720137It might look something like this when you get it out

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                • #9
                  My 50 Champion was restored 25 years ago, and someone left one of the switch terminal nuts a little loose. This caused a poor connection that got hot, and now I can't unscrew the nut. I was able to snug it up so everything works, but I'll have to keep working on it to make the nut screw off the stud. I like to put a dab of grease on all electrical connections. It keeps corrosion away and gives it a slight bit (very slight) of heat sink.

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                  • #10
                    On my 54 the same thing happened, I believe it might have been from the factory that way. The previous owner was not mechanically inclined and was experiencing electrical problems. It was in and out of the shop several times with the problem and as he claimed "it was two-bitting me to death". Shortly after I bought the car the same electrical issue re-surfaced and all the electrical accessories ran at half speed. Further into the search the main hot wire from the battery was relatively tight with rust and corrosion however was not torqued and probably was never tight from the start. When it was still clean there was no problems. The long bolt and nut was completely rusted from continued arcing and over heating. There was no evidence that this car was ever worked on before, it had 92,000 miles and it was driven until it stopped. I removed the switch, chased and cleaned the threads, new stainless nut and all is like new now.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by altair View Post
                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]71445[/ATTACH]It might look something like this when you get it out
                      Do not pay too much attention to the FRONT of this Switch, since it is a incorrect, universal replacement Switch with a SCREW-ON Bezel Nut, and a cheap 4 Tumbler Lock, NOT a Studebaker Chrome twist-on Bezel or Switch and 5 Tumbler Lock.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                      • #12
                        I accept what you say Rich, it was from a 63 American Lark parts car with no available history. I have never seen one before therefore I mistakenly assumed it was original. I appreciate your knowledge of these parts.

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