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  • tomhoo
    replied
    What was the R2 curve? I seem to recall it was full advance at 1600. Since I would set total advance (34-36 degrees), I never cared with the amount of advance was in the distributor.

    BUT, I'm a Big Advocate of VACUUM ADVANCE. I do believe in fuel economy since gas isn't cheap anymore.

    Leave a comment:


  • johnesmonde
    replied
    I am very happy with the performance of the Maxx distributor on my '62 Hawk. Has anyone figured out how to wire the factory tach so it works properly?

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
    This is the CRT version, which seems to work well.<snip>
    Thank you for a quality factual post (with video)

    Leave a comment:


  • SScopelli
    replied
    This is the CRT version, which seems to work well.

    It will come with some tuning parts..


    The black plastic part is the vacuum advance delete, if you chose to use just mechanical advance, or use it as a trigger for a spark computer.

    When shipped, they have the black springs and the silver donut installed, so it will be the top curve, 16 deg at 2000 rpm.

    On a "JT" build, the JT mechanical advance is limited to 10/11 deg.

    I used the gold (light) springs and used the black donut to limit the mechanical advance to 12.5 deg at 1500 RPM.

    I also adjusted the internal stop in the vacuum advance for a total of 28 deg of advance, mechanical and vacuum at 3000 RPM and 17" of Hg.
    (12.5 mechanical - 15.5 vacuum)

    Click on picture to watch video. Notice the air distortion..







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  • Hawkowner
    replied
    I purchased a Female cap from the Billet and a Crome round High. Voltage coil to match

    Leave a comment:


  • tomhoo
    replied
    Did anyone see if the Delco window distributor cap fits the MAXX and CRT's? (any way to run a female post cap.)

    I suppose the reason for the male posts is the use of 8mm wire?

    Yes, the real question is longevity with regard to miles driven and sitting in storage - things like capacitors can go bad simply due to age.

    Leave a comment:


  • kxet
    replied
    Early HEI GM 6 cylinder inline engines had "The ugly box coil" that mounts outside of cap. Using that coil and the little GM HEI module on a stock Mopar Slant 6 since 2001. The module was from a V8. Works with a VW coil also. Think it all was less than $20 a u pull it. No resistor needed. I got a new module and coil later after I got rich. But my Stude still is 6v with points.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64V-K7
    replied
    Look what I found.....


    Holley EFI distributor option
    Click image for larger version

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    MAXX 99482K distributor (SBC)
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    Holley is using the exact same distributor as the MAXX and CRT
    in their Electronic Fuel Injection Kit / Must say something about the durability of the unit..

    Leave a comment:


  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    As noted by the latest post about these distributors (in another thread).

    Many of these questions/concerns are pretty funny if you think about it. Reminds me of the kid throwing a temper tantrum at the toy store.

    On the gear - Do ANY...of you know what hardness the gear "should be" ? How many understand the iron vs steel, and how to tell the difference.
    On the way it works - Everyone want's to know how it works...well fine. It should work just fine to your local gas station. Not a single question on it's longevity, or shaft bearing quality. Timing wander (that was mentioned, but no one asked !).
    No one's owned one long enough to see if it will make 50+ thousand miles...THAT should be the question.

    On "ANY" custom part, like this/these distributors, the overall timing should be adjusted to the way THAT person drives, his/her home altitude, that persons gasoline availability.

    As another said...a LOT of whining about a good thing...FOR the Studebaker V-8, with little to no understanding/background for the reason for all of the whining...what the hell.
    Everyone SHOULD be happy..!
    I'd buy one if I hadn't already made my own crank triggered ignitions (two engines).

    Mike

    Leave a comment:


  • StarDiero75
    replied
    My 65 Ranchero uses a CRT Performance one. Its not bad but it needs to be calibrated for your engine. I haven't had any issues with it

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  • johnesmonde
    replied
    I purchased the Maxx 9964R Billet Electronic Distributor for 1951-1964 Studebaker v-8 from e-bay. $139.99 USD. It was basically plug and play. No electronic box needed. My mechanic was satisfied with the quality of the unit and the install was quick. He knows my car well and recognized the improved performance immediately. I already had a 40,000 volt coil that seller said would be good. Seller also switched to a female dist. cap to match my wires. After 2 months I am happy with the product and improved performance of my '62 Hawk 289.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hawkowner
    replied
    My car has a sender module under the dash the B+ to run the car came from the Tach module. The resistor wire had been removed and the old distributor was receiving full B+ I got a female terminal cap and I am running The wires that were on the car

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    Hawk, They were designed to run 8MM spiral wound wires. Also they are wired for the later tach triggering. Yours probably has a 1/2" thick plastic block between the body of the dist and the cap. $140 dizzy and $150 worth of wires and coil.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hawkowner
    replied
    I purchased the MAXX because of the price when I received it I found I needed a coil also . I did not notice it had male terminals on the cap. I ordered a new cap and coil. Very happy with the way the car runs with the distributor installed. But the Tach does not work .
    Hawkowner.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64V-K7
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    I THINK only one person in this Long Thread said that the CRT (more expensive) is NOT the same as the cheaper MAXX.

    I can see that the CRT in Post #90 is a modified version of the Delco Window with common Parts, but maybe not the MAXX, I guess the question is: "IS the CRT worth the difference in $?"

    I believe that BOTH questions are yet to be verified???
    The MAXX is identical to the CRT

    Leave a comment:

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