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  • Paint: Spraying Clear Lacquer Over Base Coat

    I'd LIKE to cut in the jambs on my Sky Hawk using rattle can Base Coat, then rattle can clear gloss lacquer over it. Is this possible, or are the two not compatible. For ME, this is much easier than going through the HVLP, setting up the gun, mixing the color/clear, clean up, etc. I'd hesitate to use the BC/CC on the jambs, for fear of screwing it up when I paint the car with lacquer/clear. If I can quick do the jambs, I can get my interior in and drive the car while I prep/paint the body. Hoping this is doable...

  • #2
    Before I comment, I would want to know more about the rattle can base and clear you plan to use on the door jambs and the BC/CC you plan to use on the exterior.
    Wayne
    "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

    sigpic‚Äč

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
      I'd LIKE to cut in the jambs on my Sky Hawk using rattle can Base Coat, then rattle can clear gloss lacquer over it. Is this possible, or are the two not compatible. For ME, this is much easier than going through the HVLP, setting up the gun, mixing the color/clear, clean up, etc. I'd hesitate to use the BC/CC on the jambs, for fear of screwing it up when I paint the car with lacquer/clear. If I can quick do the jambs, I can get my interior in and drive the car while I prep/paint the body. Hoping this is doable...
      Depends what you mean by "rattle-can".

      If you're talking about a clear from Home Depot or Wal*Mart, you'll probably be disappointed.

      However there are available "rattle-can" paints which are equivalent to the best body shop paints. They are two-parts in a single can. Sounds confusing, but true. Look here:

      http://www.apstowerpaint.com/

      Twenty bucks vs $4 at Wal*Mart, but worth every penny. They are as good as the best paint on new cars today. And one can will do four jambs. If you don't waste any.

      But if you really want to use cheap single stage clear, then use the RustOleum brand at about $6. It's good for at least five years, maybe more.

      As far as painting the exterior with lacquer/clear, please don't. For another hundred bucks you can use a good quality urethane base/clear which will last twenty years or more. PPG or DuPont.
      Last edited by jnormanh; 01-03-2018, 02:33 PM.

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      • #4
        WDILLS - This is the base coat https://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Tou...ustompaint.htm automotive acrylic clear gloss lacquer over it...lacquer/ automotive acrylic clear lacquer on the body.
        Last edited by 345 DeSoto; 01-03-2018, 02:35 PM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
          WDILLS - This is the base coat https://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Tou...ustompaint.htm automotive acrylic clear gloss lacquer over it...lacquer/ automotive acrylic clear lacquer on the body.
          Yep. That's the "good stuff" base color. You can use the single stage (same brand) over it, and it will last five years, longer if always garaged. Or you can use use the two-component clear and it will last twenty years outdoors.

          Your money, your choice.

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          • #6
            I need to do the lower doors edges, below the belt line AND the jambs. I'm wondering how many of their 10 1/2 oz cans would do it...especially if I used their 2K single stage spray instead. https://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Spr...ustompaint.htm

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            • #7
              I would, personally, used the same product on the jambs as I use on the body panels. Why risk a compatibility problem if it can be avoided? Buying one product would probably be cost effective too. That way, there is no left over paint, just touch-up for later.
              sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
              1950 Champion Convertible
              1950 Champion 4Dr
              1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
              1957 Thunderbird

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              • #8
                Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                I would, personally, used the same product on the jambs as I use on the body panels. Why risk a compatibility problem if it can be avoided? Buying one product would probably be cost effective too. That way, there is no left over paint, just touch-up for later.
                Agree 100%.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                  I need to do the lower doors edges, below the belt line AND the jambs. I'm wondering how many of their 10 1/2 oz cans would do it...especially if I used their 2K single stage spray instead. https://www.66autocolor.com/Auto-Spr...ustompaint.htm
                  Assuming you've got everything smooth and primed, and don't waste any, figure about 8 sq. ft. per aerosol can.

                  If you buy one too many cans, you might be out 20 bucks. One too few....

                  If you're going to paint the entire car, then you must have a compressor and spray gun. To try to do an entire car out of aerosol cans would be expensive and probably not yield good results.

                  I'd buy a gallon of color with urethane hardener and skip the clear. It will look almost as good as base/clear, cost less and be easier.

                  If you've never painted a car before, and if you probably won't paint another in the future, let a good body shop do it. Do all the prep yourself, and it will likely cost only a few hundred dollars more. (They buy paint in bulk much cheaper than you can.)
                  Last edited by jnormanh; 01-03-2018, 04:06 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Does anyone use lacquer anymore? And, if so, why?
                    Brad Johnson,
                    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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                    • #11
                      If you do it yourself, invest in one of these with the appropriate filters.

                      https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...4756312&rt=rud

                      Bob

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                        Does anyone use lacquer anymore? And, if so, why?
                        In 1990,I got a job at a Chevrolet dealership body shop. I was totally amazed [and amused] that they were still using lacquer.And that was back in 1990!!! Worked there for 4 years,and when I left they were experimenting with 'modern' paints!
                        Oglesby,Il.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                          Does anyone use lacquer anymore? And, if so, why?
                          Lacquer is cheap, dries quickly, and any mistakes can be easily sanded out and blended. To look really good, it has to be buffed afterward. The disadvantage is that it doesn't weather very well and will be getting dull in a year outdoors. If thick enough it can be buffed out a few times.

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                          • #14
                            I used enamel in the 1950s-1960s. In the 1970s, I used lacquer. I have seen cars that I painted with nitrocellulose lacquer after more than 30 years and they still looked great (granted this was not on everyday usage cars).
                            Gary L.
                            Wappinger, NY

                            SDC member since 1968
                            Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                              I'd LIKE to cut in the jambs on my Sky Hawk using rattle can Base Coat, then rattle can clear gloss lacquer over it. Is this possible, or are the two not compatible. For ME, this is much easier than going through the HVLP, setting up the gun, mixing the color/clear, clean up, etc. I'd hesitate to use the BC/CC on the jambs, for fear of screwing it up when I paint the car with lacquer/clear. If I can quick do the jambs, I can get my interior in and drive the car while I prep/paint the body. Hoping this is doable...
                              (PREVAL)
                              This is a simple paint system available at most parts suppliers. It is a small spray can equipped with pickup in a glass jar. When you mix your paint slightly thinner than usual it sprays just like a spray can. It's great for small jobs, very inexpensive. I have 2 so I have one for base coat and one for clear and single stage. This way you can use your own paint and eliminate a lot of problems. I, too, don't like getting the hvlp gun out for small jobs and this is very easy cleanup.
                              don

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