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Does this sound about right for torque convertor 'run-out' (best I can measure)

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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Does this sound about right for torque convertor 'run-out' (best I can measure)

    OK, being first time I've done a V8, let alone a Studebaker, I've been as careful as possible with dialing in check, (maybe not original bell-housing?), and double-flexplate, and now installing the rebuilt torque convertor and almost-correct? ( at least a HD, wide band, cooled Stude) transmission. Different post on that coming up....

    So, bell-housing 0.004-5", at different locations (and with dial-indicator being at an angle, I think it is a max of 0.004" or less, whether it's original or not.

    Flexplate(s): able to get both a new and the original (obviously fairly new, replaced when the Fordomatic it came with was put on? Who knows) flexplate PLUS the reinforcing plate, with the specified locknuts (new).

    Installed the transmission (rebuilt it myself, SEVEN years ago this week!! wow. Working full-time with five kids and lots of travel first years, what can I say... except HOW FUN TO PUT IT BACK ON!).

    And, then did as instructed here and had my son turn the engine over a few times with "finger-tight" bolts to torque convertor, THEN cranked them as tight as a guy can with a hand wrench through the starter hole. I guess we're forced in trusting a lot in the tranny pump centering the convertor, and "correctly centered" bell-housing. But I figured I'd try to check it somehow anyway.

    Only way I could get a dial indicator ANYWHERE on it was through the starter, on the very edge next to ring gear that is the ONLY flat smooth part of the converter (on engine side). (see photo). Got a consistent 0-0.017", two spots, so seems 'true' to converter position, IF converter exterior is even "true". Would be nice to see zero runout obviously, but have no idea how well-made the converters are, their exterior has no mechanical "importance", other than balance I suppose. Curious if anyone else has ever checked the converter runout? (I tried but was unable to get my dial indicator on the actual converter output shaft/pump sleeve; prior to installing the tranny, though probably very hard to get a centered converter without the "tool", or a pump housing as shown in a post here). It is what it is now I guess. Just curious if anyone else has checked the converter runout and if they ARE generally "true" themselves, and therefore their runout reflects how centered it is on the flexplate and crank... Thanks!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Do I understand you mounted the torque converter on the flex plate, then indicated the TC relative to the crank rotation?

    We're supposed to locate the Bell Housing relative to the crank rotation. Pin it (the bell housing) in place, remove it, install the TC, re-install (with pins) the bell housing.

    Comment


    • #3
      I think what Barry is saying is he did all that Dial-in thing, did the best he could with centering the Converter within the Housing, tightened it all up and then wanted to measure the final result at the Front of the Converter.

      This is probably not a good way to check and unnecessary, if the other TWO Converter centering Jobs are all done.
      I understand being a Perfectionist ... I are One! But some carry it a bit too far!
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        I think what Barry is saying is he did all that Dial-in thing, did the best he could with centering the Converter within the Housing, tightened it all up and then wanted to measure the final result at the Front of the Converter.

        This is probably not a good way to check and unnecessary, if the other TWO Converter centering Jobs are all done.
        I understand being a Perfectionist ... I are One! But some carry it a bit too far!
        Yeah, I think you got it Rich; I HAD tightened up the conveter-to-flex plate before putting the tranny on, but that was BEFORE I found your old post about the tranny doing the centering for us (minus the Stude tool...). So, I DID loosen them back to 'finger-tight' AFTER mounting the tranny, then cranked it around, and re-tightened the bolts up to the converter WITH the tranny in place. I'm just curious if the converter run-out means a darn thing or not. I've done the best I can (per my following post about my original and current tranny, no guarantee my bell-housing is original) w/ confirming decent bell-housing centering, and "did the turns then tighten" for torque converter, so if I correctly followed yours and others instructions, I'm sure it's fine. I am as anal as Rich accuses me of :-), but I may never even be able to drive my own car (have a walker, could get worse...) and want to make sure this car is trouble-free as possible for my boys (or son-in-laws) for the NEXT 50+ years :-).

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