Engine: Ignition Contacts (Points) and a few more parts I need.

[EmersonCollie]

I'm going to tune up the 232 V8 for the first time (since I've owned it). While I'm at it, replace the valve cover gasket and those rubber grommets under those acorn nuts that hold the covers on.

My local auto parts store has the spark plugs, cap, rotor and ignition coil for me. I just need to know where I can buy a valve cover gasket kit, ignition contacts and spark plug wires for the 232 V8. I'm replacing it all as I have no record on when the last time this was done to the engine.

It's showing me signs that it needs a tune just by the way how it runs after it warms up. If I have to shift it to "L" and have my foot to the floor, leaving a stop sign at walking speed then yeah,.. it's time.

Maybe these parts can be crossed over to another make? I've notice some parts are branded Delco Remy so I'd figure I'd ask.

Thanks.

[TWChamp]

I never replace good parts, but Studebaker International and other Studebaker dealers should have everything you need. I replaced the valve cover gaskets on my 1952 Land Cruiser a few times in 1970 and 1971, and I bought them at the local auto parts store. I had to soak them in warm water so they would expand to fit, then a month or two later they would start leaking again, so back for more cork gaskets. The next time I'll cut my own from a large sheet of cork.

[Ross]

You should have a Delco distributor so the Napa # for the points is CS7777A and the condensor is RR174. These are the same for every 8 cyl Delco of the era so am surprised your parts store could not come up with them. 6 volt cars seem to prefer "real" spark plug wires NOT the resistor type. Easy enough to get a universal set and just put the ends on. I just had bad luck again with Champion plugs so am sticking with the Autolite 437.

[rockne10]

Jay,
Your question appears to indicate you are not receiving Turning Wheels, the monthly publication of the Studebaker Drivers Club that would put you in touch with all your needs.

[EmersonCollie]

@-TWChamp: I don't replace good parts either. However, the ignition system is the exception to that rule since that is what keeps the car running. Knowing that this engine is probaby doing a good 3,000 RPMs plus on the interstate. I need that ignition system to be reliable. I don't do much interstate driving. I mostly just cruise around town with it. But when I am on the interstate. That is the time when I which that my car had the three on a tree with overdrive.

@-Ross: Thanks and also thanks for giving me the part numbers for the Napa store. I did ordered the Champion plugs. But since you had bad luck with them. I'll ask for the Autolite 437.

@-rockne10: I need to get those again. How do I go about getting them monthly again?

[StudeNewby]

@-rockne10: I need to get those again. How do I go about getting them monthly again?

Click the SDC button at the top of this page, then go to the About link to join the club. The magazine comes with your membership and is worth every penny.

[christophe]

For what it's worth, I tried Autolite 437 instead of Champion RH18YC. There was a huge difference! The engine refused to start! But this might be a case of bad luck so I hope you'll get better results with yours. From now on, I use Bosch W8AC or W8EC if a shorter thread is needed.
Nice day to all.

[Bud]

I've never had problems with Champion spark plugs in any of my engines. I've also used Autolite 437's and I have a stash of old AC 43LS plugs. I've used them all with no difference in engine performance. Do be sure to use top quality ignition parts such as NAPA Echlin or Standard Blue Streak. I've had problems with ignition and electrical parts supplied by some of the Studebaker parts vendors as they can be supplied to them by suspect parts manufacturers with questionable quality control. Bud

[PackardV8]

TWChamp - I never replace good parts,

Your car, your money, your decision. However, over the years, I've made it a policy not to try to tune or troubleshoot a Stude until it has all-new ignition components. Not surprisingly, after the owner has done that,
most hard-starting, stalling and "carburetor" problems go away. A museum car with still-new-but-fifteen-year-old ignition parts wouldn't start. They refused to believe the parts could corrode just sitting indoors. They were wrong.

Do be sure to use top quality ignition parts such as NAPA Echlin or Standard Blue Streak. I've had problems with ignition and electrical parts supplied by some of the Studebaker parts vendors as they can be supplied to them by suspect parts manufacturers with questionable quality control. Bud

For true, Bud. Some of the replacement ignition parts supplied by some of our vendors are Chicom and inferior in quality to the old parts being replaced. It's difficult-to-impossible to find the Echlin, Standard and Blue Streak parts today. Your results may vary.

jack vines

[Bud]

I've had good luck with my local NAPA dealer finding the parts I need for the Studebakers. They either have the parts on the shelf or can get them for me the next day. Rock Auto is another place to look for ignition and electrical parts as they have a good stock of Standard Blue Streak parts available for Studebakers. Things such as ignition points, distributor caps, rotors and ignition coils can be found either NOS or NORS on Ebay. I don't recommend using an old condenser as they have a finite shelf life even if they have never been out of the box. In the case of condensers, use the freshest stock available from a reputable manufacturer. Bud

[Frank DuVal]

I've had to clean points that have been 6 months or so without running. Just a swipe with a point file, remember those?, or 600 grit sandpaper. Good as new. Well, good as new with scratches....

[studegary]

I've had to clean points that have been 6 months or so without running. Just a swipe with a point file, remember those?, or 600 grit sandpaper. Good as new. Well, good as new with scratches....

I not only remember them, but I have two in my tool box - one coarse and one fine.

[studebakerkid]

I would drop in a Pertronics unit to eliminate the points if it was me.

[Hawklover]

If you have the original numbers, then check E-Bay......ask the seller if the parts are new, or NOS........I have purchased many ignition parts on the "bay" with good results........that were NOS.......and not BRAND NEW!
Also contact Stude vendors that have been in business for a great many years, like 30 or more........the parts they have will be either NOS or NORS from those manufactures who made them back in the day.

[Hawklover]

If the module craps out, the only thing he will do is call for the "hook" I find nothing wrong with points, which can be changed in short order...I carry spares and my tach/dwell/timing light in the trunk....

I would drop in a Pertronics unit to eliminate the points if it was me.