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Torque Convertor (57GHawk) mounting and runout, best practice?

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Torque Convertor (57GHawk) mounting and runout, best practice?

    OK, checked the runout of the bellhousing (suspected might not be original, but either is or got lucky, 0.005", with mag-base indicator at that).
    Mounted my rebuilt torque converter, did 'finger tight" to flexplate, rotated twice, and snugged up. Was going to check run-out at the torque convertor shaft (pump impeller?), which is the only thing that matters it would seem, but quickly realized CAN'T do that with a loose (unmounted, no bell housing) engine w/ mag-base on frame. :-) (wow, .070" on first 1/8" rotation? Quickly realized "dah!". BUT, after mounting bellhousing, there is no way to get a dial indicator on the shaft of the convertor anymore.

    SO, is it better to fully tighten up the bolts-to-flexplate now, as is after the 'two rotations', and THEN slide the transmission on and mount it to the bellhousing? Or is it better to mount the transmission, loosen the flexplate-to-convertor bolts a bit again, and let the tranny center the rear of the torque convertor, crank it around twice or so and THEN re-tighten the flex-plate to convertor bolts? Sure would like to know what that shaft (from convertor) runout is, but would need a really long dial indicator shaft to get through the slots in the bellhousing, and do NOT have that....

    Best practice?
    Thanks!
    (PS: Put the 1/2" spacer between the left side of the bellhousing support and the frame crossmember (another thing 'not there' when I took it apart; what is that for anyway?). The reproduction supports for the bellhousing don't have enough threads, at least one thread shy of 'all the way on', and over-torqued it another 1/2 turn or so to get more of the nut on. Annoying. Not going to come off, but you'd think the bolts on those could be per spec, pretty easy piece to duplicate... (or did I get a "matched" set by mistake, and should have been sent one with a longer bolt for that side?)

  • #2
    after RE-searching the forum, and spelling 'converter' correctly this time, found the posts I recall reading weeks ago but could not find yesterday :-) As Rich said last March: "I have the centering Tool for the Flight-O-Matic, which of course is different than the Detroit Gear Trans. but I do not find it much more help than using the Trans. to center the Converter in the hole and lastly tightening the Screws from the Flex Plate."

    So, I guess that answers my question; I DO install the transmission FIRST, then do the 'finger-tight', rotate twice, tighten flexplate bolts.....". Thanks for past posts Rich! :-)


    (Still wondering why the SPECIFIED 1/2" spacer between bellhousing mount and frame isn't accounted for in the new mount's bolt length.... 1/2 a thread "missing" because the bolt isn't long enough to account for that isn't going to make the nut fall off, but is sure annoying.

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    • #3
      Use Locktite or a Self Locking Nut.

      It has been mentioned many times here, that the Spacer IS required to give adequate clearance from the V8 Left Exhaust Manifold to the Steering Gear on Left Hand Drive Cars.
      It also would properly position the critical Automatic Trans. Throttle Pressure Rod, the Shift Linkage and the Throttle Pedal Linkage.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        yeah, the Loctite is a good idea for both of those nuts. You writing it must have jogged my thoughts, as I decided to do the same thing just a few hours ago "to be safe", and "back off" a bit to stay at torque settings, with the rubber involved. Not all torque specs are critical perhaps, but probably a good idea when you are compressing rubber isolation dampers.... Wonder how the previous owner(s) got things to work, having reassembled it WITHOUT the spacer. Could explain why the isolation dampers were MELTED; but now I hope I don't find my linkages are 'bent" in areas they were not INTENDED to be bent, to compensate...

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        • #5
          The original rods, did have some bends in them.
          With a 'new ' transmission, You should adjust the throttle linkage rods anyway, so don't worry until you get it running.

          At your second or third oil change, Check those nuts at the mounts again, they will be 'loose' enough to put another turn or two on them.

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          • #6
            Good point; thanks

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