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Engine Issue

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  • Engine: Engine Issue

    I have started having a problem with my Champ V8.
    The motor peters out and stalls when I stop or down change gears, you really need to rev it to keep it running.
    Then you can pull up at the next stop and it idles beautifully as if nothing is wrong .
    Recently I have noticed I hear a dull click which coincides with the engine idling well.
    Eg It was running poorly and I was reving the motor to keep it alive and I heard the dull click and the engine idled smoothly again.
    I'm assuming that the click is something stuck and then freeing itself. When its stuck the engine doesn't run well and when it frees the engine does.

    I haven't found the source of the noise yet, does anyone have any idea where to look or experienced this issue before?

  • #2
    How 'bout some additional information. For example, how original is the Champ's electrical/fuel/ and mechanical setup? Does it have air conditioning? I'm trying to imagine sources of an "audible click?" In electrical, something like the points in a conventional voltage regulator. Fuel, could be a conventional fuel pump, or if an electrical fuel pump, an issue there. Mechanical could be linkage, to the carburetor, or even the heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold sticking. There could even be a malfunction where something in the muffler has broken loose and bouncing up to occasionally restrict the exhaust.

    By what you've described so far, my thinking is that there is some kind of intermittent electrical malfunction preventing the coil from maintaining full ignition power. What about gauges? Do you have actual analog gauges or just the original "idiot" lights? When the vehicle begins to labor and are the gauges reacting?
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975


    • #3
      Could be almost anything. I would disconnect the generator and take it for a drive. If it behaves replace reg. It is likely not the problem so turn attention to distributor; the advance might be malfunctioning. Is plate lubed and free? Is mechanical advance working? Easy to check on Delco window type; not so easy on others. Check vacuum advance with a 50cc irrigating syringe. You might have to take it out and replace with window type or send to Dave T. or Myers or Phil Harris. Maybe dist. clamp is just loose and that is the noise you hear. Fuel delivery couldn't cause noise you heard, but you might want to check pressure anyway. (Today's crap gas wreck fuel pumps)


      • #4
        Check to see if the ignition wires are properly routed.http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...+wires+routing


        • #5
          A significant vacuum leak can cause these symptoms, as well as a bad PCV valve, if one is fitted to the engine.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible


          • #6
            The champ is stock ie mechanical fuel pump, delo window dizzy, 2 barrel carby etc etc and was converted to alternator some decades ago.
            It still has the idiot lights and the oil light comes on when it's stalling as I would assume it would as the oil pressure drops.
            I will look into those areas suggested and report back.


            • #7
              Does this truck have overdrive? A sticky kickdown switch or frayed wiring might short out the ignition and cause an audible click.


              • #8
                Originally posted by Dwain G. View Post
                Does this truck have overdrive? A sticky kickdown switch or frayed wiring might short out the ignition and cause an audible click.
                No just a normal 3 speed manual


                • #9
                  I cleaned the PCV, fixed any places I thought might have a vacuum leak, put the old rotor button back on and lubed up the weights and vacuum advance as best I could.
                  I have driven it a few times since ( however not long distances) and it seems to be working well.
                  A bit more driving and some long runs will need to be done before I'm confident of the issue being cured but so far it looks positive.
                  I hope I haven't spoken to early.
                  ps I changed the rotor button as I noticed that the metal centre spring touched or got very close to touching the metal tag near the carbon piece. On the new button the spring when compressed sat a lot further away. I'm not sure if this has any significance but I thought I would change it anyway.