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  • Body / Glass: Window regulator question

    Just curiosity, does anyone rebuild window regulators ?
    I did a little searching, and found nothing.

    Second question, is there a need for rebuilt regulators ?

    I had to do some work on my Lark's driver regulator as it was jammed in the up position. After finally getting it out and on the bench, the gear box is in need of a real overhaul (nothing was actually broken). While it's "temporarily" fixed, I have no doubt it'll happen again.

    Anyway...I see a few things to do to make it like new again, but to do just one or two would be expensive to make tools to do the job. But if there is a need, and no one else is doing this work...maybe I could fill the gap.

    Just a thought.

    Mike

  • #2
    You can get rebuilt ones from some of our vendors like SI and Stephen Allen. I remember years ago Bob Johnson use to rebuild them by stealing parts from slow moving ones. I would think there could be a niche here especially if you also sold parts for the do-it-yourself guys. The hard part would probably be finding a supplier of the parts.
    Milt

    1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
    1961 Hawk 4-speed
    1967 Avanti
    1961 Lark 2 door
    1988 Avanti Convertible

    Member of SDC since 1973

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    • #3
      I always thought the Culprit was the Small Gear, I never see extreme wear on the Half Moon Gear, maybe sometimes a weak Spring.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        I always thought the Culprit was the Small Gear, I never see extreme wear on the Half Moon Gear, maybe sometimes a weak Spring.
        I have repaired quite a few with worn sectors. Just build up the teeth with braze and then grind the teeth to the proper shape. They then last for years (at least - never saw one that wore out after this repair).
        For the small gear, just swap with one that is good, like from a rear window assembly.
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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        • #5
          https://www.classicparts.com/1955-63...ctinfo/18-775/
          Last edited by bezhawk; 11-29-2017, 04:23 PM.
          Bez Auto Alchemy
          573-318-8948
          http://bezautoalchemy.com


          "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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          • #6
            Thanks all.

            The problem on mine is the smaller bushing holding the pinion gear in place is pretty loose.
            The larger "bushing" (just a sleeved hole) is also a little loose. The pinion gear teeth look mostly fine, and the larger section gear teeth look new. All of the pivots are mostly..."ok", not too loose.
            Funny thing...now with everything clean and lubed, but not "tightened"...the worn out coil spring doesn't have enough "spring" in it any more..! Made my own guillotine with the hinge looseness, weak spring and window weight..!

            Mike

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            • #7
              Brent Hagen in Portland rebuilds them. I bought one for my Champ truck from him. He does nice work.
              Here is a link to his website.
              http://www.1956goldenhawk.com/hagen/
              Ed Sallia
              Dundee, OR

              Sol Lucet Omnibus

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              • #8
                No doubt that many regulators need to be rebuilt, but there are many that can be returned to service without the hassle. Rust and congealed grease are most often the causes of stuck regulators. Unless the gears have been constantly stressed, by forcing them against their will, most can be freed up with penetrant. It's easy to recognize the worn out regulators as the window crank will suddenly lurch forward. In many cases the regulator need not even be removed, from the door or quarter. Just aim the penetrant, wherever there is an opening, and let it do it's work. Return to jog the handle, and to add more penetrant. Remember to put a catch basin under the drain holes, or you're going to have a mess on the floor. When freed up I generally use an aerosol white grease to lubricate.

                While working on the regulator, use some penetrant on the track rollers. There is a good chance that they are frozen up also. This will not restore rollers that have been dragged up and down the track, but freeing them up will put a lot less stress on the regulator. I've used the procedure about a half a dozen times and always had good results.

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                • #9
                  Hallabutt -

                  Not sure what you mean...but my Lark has no rollers, also, there is no "up and down" to their movement. The gear teeth actually have very little friction between them, so greasing isn't a big deal there. It's the bushings becoming out of alignment and reducing the contact surface that is a main problem that "locked" my mechanism, which is what caused me to9 ask the original question, about an actual rebuilder of said parts.
                  Getting anything into the smaller bushings (between the regulator and door skin) would be a good trick.

                  The original question was about the need for "rebuilding" them, not greasing/oiling existing parts.
                  But thanks for your reply.

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    My narrative was based on my past experiences, sorry it didn't help. Your regulators are obviously worn out, and need to be replaced. My experiences may help others who read this. The process has sure saved me a great deal of extra work in the past.

                    There are plenty of good used regs. that come up for sale. The problem is matching them to the ones in your car. The rollers, that I mentioned, were used in the C and K cars.

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                    • #11
                      I sent my left front to SI and got it back working beautifully.

                      Paul
                      I finally have a Stude I can drive! (sort of)
                      1962 GT Hawk, 4 speed, a/c

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Hallabutt View Post
                        The rollers, that I mentioned, were used in the C and K cars.
                        I think you mean "K" coupes. I know of no rollers in "C" coupe windows.
                        Jerry Forrester
                        Forrester's Chrome
                        Douglasville, Georgia

                        See all of Buttercup's pictures at https://imgur.com/a/tBjGzTk

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
                          Hallabutt -

                          Not sure what you mean...but my Lark has no rollers, also, there is no "up and down" to their movement. The gear teeth actually have very little friction between them, so greasing isn't a big deal there. It's the bushings becoming out of alignment and reducing the contact surface that is a main problem that "locked" my mechanism, which is what caused me to9 ask the original question, about an actual rebuilder of said parts.
                          Getting anything into the smaller bushings (between the regulator and door skin) would be a good trick.

                          The original question was about the need for "rebuilding" them, not greasing/oiling existing parts.
                          But thanks for your reply.

                          Mike
                          Hi Mike!

                          I have a 59 Lark 2DHTP and they are known to come apart on the rear windows. When my car had 28K miles on it in 1981, I was 15 and welded the teeth back onto my half-moon gear and filed them down accordingly.

                          This has been in my mind ever since and I have been considering yanking it out and having new half moon gears made from a harder material (AR400) and possibly doing the same for the regulator and spring. I'm not sure what it would take at this time.

                          If you come up with a solution, please let us know. I am planning on finding an old HT and pulling all these parts to work on rebuilding and making them bigger, faster, stronger, but a little less than six million dollars.
                          Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                          1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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                          • #14
                            I have purchased new regulators for cars at Regulator Roy, Mullica Hill, NJ 609-828-8537. Chet

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                            • #15
                              BILT4ME -

                              I was just considering working out the fixes if no one else was doing this type of work.
                              But it seems others have already been doing the work.

                              Yea, teeth and bushings are the wear items.
                              The teeth are (normally) weld repairable. The bushings are a little more work. One is an actual bushing, one is an "upset" area in the main plate. Both can be fixed / replaced.
                              It seems that it would be a good idea to hit up all of the Stude people you know, Stude swap meets, etc., and buy all you can get. Learn to fix them and sell as required.

                              But...it seems that position has been filled by a few others..! And that's a good thing...
                              The above Regulator Roy seems interesting also.
                              Thanks Chet.

                              Mike

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