Body / Glass: 1960 Studebaker Hawk.

[Jiles]

I plan to check out a 1960 Studebaker Hawk tomorrow.
Just thought I would ask if anyone can give me some advise as to where body rust is most likely to occur.
I know it can be virtually anywhere but some cars have more likely spots.
Owner stated there was a few "spots" and that, to me, means I need to check close.
I plan to take a magnet, as I have with other cars.
I might ad that it has a 289 with three speed standard shift and four barrel carburetor.
Any advise in relation to inspection of the complete Hawk, would be appreciated.

[StudeRich]

Find out if that 3 Speed Manual is actually a T-86 Borg Warner 3 Speed WITH OVERDRIVE a HUGE PLUS, for Engine Life, Fuel Economy, NOISE Level, VALUE and General all around Fun to drive!
Look for a Chrome "T" Handle marked "O.D." under the Dash, Left side of the Steering Wheel and a Kickdown Switch on the Carb Linkage under the Hood.

The worst Rust is always at the REAR 4 Inches or so of the Front Fenders, and in the Rust Belt States can also be just forward of the Rear Wheel Well.

Then there are the FLOORS all of them, and the Trunk Floor, look under Mats and Rugs and or under the CAR.

The U.S. Built '60 Hawks all had 289 Engines with a 2 Barrel or 4 Barrel Option.

[Jiles]

Thanks, owner says it has overdrive and it works.

[Steve Winzar]

Hi Jiles, Do check the panel under the rear bumper bar and the one at the rear underside of the trunk floor. I have one on a '62 Hawk that is almost completely rusted out and we don't salt our roads here in Australia. Have also a 61 Hawk with the same problem. You might look at the 'A' pillar door hinge area too.
Steve

[wdills]

The trunk drip rails are another a big rust problem and the entire "tail panel" of the trunk. The tail panel on my 61 looked good, but when I started sawing out the trunk floor the vibration caused little holes to start popping out all over the trunk tail panel. Also look closely at the bottom edge of the trunk lid. They all have rust. If it is isolated to the flat metal along the bottom of the trunk lid, you can weld in new metal fairly easily. If the rust gets up to the "ribbed" area, I don't know how to fix it and good trunk lids are hard to find. My original lid was rusted up into the ribs and it took me 2 years to locate a replacement lid that only had rust in the section of flat metal along the bottom.

[Steve Winzar]

The trunk drip rails are another a big rust problem and the entire "tail panel" of the trunk. The tail panel on my 61 looked good, but when I started sawing out the trunk floor the vibration caused little holes to start popping out all over the trunk tail panel. Also look closely at the bottom edge of the trunk lid. They all have rust. If it is isolated to the flat metal along the bottom of the trunk lid, you can weld in new metal fairly easily. If the rust gets up to the "ribbed" area, I don't know how to fix it and good trunk lids are hard to find. My original lid was rusted up into the ribs and it took me 2 years to locate a replacement lid that only had rust in the section of flat metal along the bottom.

Whilst not wishing to hijack the thread, my 61 hawk's trunklid was so badly rusted away, I learned how to make a whole new one at an automotive bodymaking class.

[cavanbound]

If you have a chance to grab the VIN (on the '60 Hawk), and would share it, I'd love to add it to the Orphan Hawks registry as a "recently seen for sale"

[tsenecal]

On my 60 Hawk, there was rust in all the mentioned places, as well as one spot behind the passenger door where an inner body panel traps dirt. Good luck with your project!