Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Pulling 64 wagonaire engine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Pulling 64 wagonaire engine

    I have started the dreaded 289 engine removal out of my 64 wagonaire and while under the front removing radiator hose, I now see that oil pan is only about 1 inch from the tie rod/bell crank assy. Question is will removing tie rods off of bell crank allow it to swing around enough to allow engine to go forward enough to get out of the automatic trans ?

  • #2
    The easy way to do this is to remove the pinch bolt holding the bellcrank to the center pivot, remove the center pivot grease fitting, and undo the 4 screws holding the center pivot to the crossmember. Drop the center pivot out, and the bellcrank will fall away far enough to make removal of the engine easy, and that center pivot needs to be serviced, anyway.
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

    Comment


    • #3
      Why not remove them together? Its far easier to do than to try to center the engine back onto the trans when you're putting it back in. You don't want to mess that up, cuz it could damage the torque converter or front pump. I think you'll be doing yourself a favor taking them out together. Unbolt them on the floor, then when done, bolt them together on the floor. How much easier could that be?
      sals54

      Comment


      • #4
        That's the way I did it originally, but had whole front off of car, seems like way more work to me that way. Engine should line up fine using guide pins.

        Comment


        • #5
          Not a Lark, but I pulled the 232 V8 w/automatic out of my '53 Commander Starliner as a unit and installed the replacement 289 V8 w/overdrive as a unit. No problem. Didn't do anything to the steering linkage.
          Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
          '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
          '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
          '62 GT Hawk (4 speed, A/C, Power steering - running and DRIVING!)

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by rbigcal View Post
            That's the way I did it originally, but had whole front off of car, seems like way more work to me that way. Engine should line up fine using guide pins.
            Instead of removing the entire front end sheet metal why not just remove the hood, radiator/ radiator support, upper tie bar, grille & front bumper. I agree if it was my choice I'd remove the whole assembly (engine/trans together). A small help would be to get a thick rubber glove & zip-tie it to the tail of the transmission. The glove will hold any excess trans fluid from escaping & making a royal mess. Also, putting everything back together as an assembly makes it so easy aligning the torque converter & bolting it all together out in the open rather than under the car.
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

            Comment


            • #7
              Hood= 4 bolts, mark the position. Bumper= 4 bolts Rad support = 2 bolts , note shims/washers . radiator 6 bolts. fan, 4 bolts. now front fenders dont have to come off, but its 8 more bolts that run into the cowl. , then you have access to clean, inspect, look at frame , bushings etc.... Oh, and just in case you don't have an adjustable engine crane, remove the dist cap and rotor.......

              Comment


              • #8
                Since a Wagonaire has the X member in the frame I believe that my experience with my 60 convert is relevant. My engine is a 259 with powerglide and has been out twice as a unit. Both times I have removed all front end sheet metal and while this may seem to be extra work, it sure gives good access to things like exhaust bolts that tend to seize with time. No problem with steering linkage although I believe I had to turn full to the right or left to get the necessary clearance. Good luck.
                Bob
                Bob
                Welland Ontario
                60 Lark Convertible
                64 Daytona
                sigpic
                "They were meant to be driven ... so keep on cruizin"

                Comment


                • #9
                  I pulled the V8 from my '63 Wagonaire and reinstalled it without removing the front sheet metal (except for the hood) or doing anything with the steering linkage. I have always left the bell housing and transmission on the engine. Never had a problem.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X