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What Oil for a rebuilt 1950 Champion???

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  • Engine: What Oil for a rebuilt 1950 Champion???

    Hey Guys
    I have not been hear for some time but I finally got my 1950 Champion project to the point of turning her rebuilt engine over for the first time. I know I need brake in oil but my question is what weight oil should I be running in a rebuilt 1950 Champion? As always thanks for the advise.

    Studebaker Ron

  • #2
    I would run 10-30 Mobil or any quality oil, and add a cam lube supplement.


    • #3
      Hey Tom
      long time no talk. I have been talking this over with the man who helped me do the rebuild and he feels it should be straight 30. Any idea what they used back in 1950? I know oil technology has come a long way but I want to match original weight as much as I can with today's modern oils.

      Studebaker Ron


      • #4
        The shop manual and owner's manual should list the oil. I like to add 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil to each 10 gallons of NON ethanol gas.
        In case you haven't heard, I just bought a 1950 Land Cruiser. I payed too much, but the body and upholstery were just too nice to pass up.
        I'll be in the poor house for several months, in case you want to visit me. LOL


        • #5
          I am in the cell two doors down....congrats on the Land Cruiser.

          Does anyone have a shop manual for a 1950 Champion? Love to know what oil it recommended in 1950.



          • #6
            Modern Oils are just TOO much different than what they had then, we Now have Multi-weight Oil, Synthetic Oil, Racing Oil and High Mileage Oil, Classic Car Oil and Break-in Additives (ZDDPlus & Redline) with the Proper ZDDP additives for flat tappet Engines.

            What they recommended then, was whichever was the proper weight related to your local Area Temperatures.

            So, using what they used in 1950 no longer works for a variety of reasons.
            The Manual will ONLY tell you what to use AFTER Break-in, because they came with the Break-in Oil in them.

            For Break-in, a lighter Oil is always used, 20W or 10W/30 for 1000 Miles, we here usually recommend and use Valvoline Silver Bottle Racing Oil for it's ZDDP content.
            If you want to know more about that, there are Hundeds of posts about "ZDDP" here that can be found with the 'Search Function.
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner


            • #7
              No need to make a science of it, the blue label WalMart generic brand should do just fine. Use whatever weight you prefer, between 20 and 50. Multi-viscosity if you like, anywhere from 10W30 to 20W50.
              Last edited by JoeHall; 11-07-2017, 06:54 PM.


              • #8
                I use Amzoil Z-Rod. It is formulated for flat tappets and claims to be good for engines that spend long without being run.


                • #9
                  Thanks to everyone



                  • #10
                    Ron, I thought you had the shop manual. I see them often on ebay and from S.I.
                    I like to buy the owner's manual, shop and body manuals, and parts manuals for any car I own.
                    Would like to see pictures of how your Champion is coming along.


                    • #11
                      No need to make a science of it, the blue label WalMart generic brand should do just fine. Use whatever weight you prefer, between 20 and 50. Multi-viscosity if you like, anywhere from 10W30 to 20W50.
                      Agree with Joe. The Champion is an agricultural product, designed for the original CASOs, so no high tech lube science required.

                      Somehow, the hot rod small block Chevy cam problems have unduly traumatized the entire old car hobby. However, an aftermarket aggressive profile high performance OHV cam with strong springs presents a completely different break-in envelope than does a stock flathead with soft springs and slow cam ramps. Bottom line, with your Champion, you'll never see any difference in the oils, with or without additives. As Joe suggests, use the multi-grade which is on sale, change the oil after 500 miles or the first season and just don't worry about it.

                      BTW, there is one Champion weak point which does factor into the oil choice. Were the lifter bores checked? Most Champions need oversized lifters at rebuild. If lifter bore wear wasn't dealt with, even with all new bearings and rings, too much oil can get squirted out of worn lifter bores and cause lower oil pressure and oil consumption. Choose your multi-viscosity by watching the oil pressure gauge. If it's lower than you'd like with 5W-30, go up to 10W-40 or if summer only, even 20w-50.

                      jack vines