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NOS Hawk Upper Control Arms- real thing vs post-closing finishing?

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  • Front Axle / Front Suspension: NOS Hawk Upper Control Arms- real thing vs post-closing finishing?

    Well, ALL done with the front suspension (separate post), but for those of you that recall my fighting with trying to get the king-pin "pin bushings" in, and actually stripping out a NOS upper control arm in the process, here is WHY (I think) I had so much trouble. The TRUE NOS control arm took me 20 minutes to put together, vs a few days of fighting (and then stripping out) the initial "NOS" arm...

    So more of a "Public Service announcement" here for anyone with these "finished later" control arms.

    Look closely at the welded 'rings' or receivers for the pin-bushings. You can see the big dimples around the ACTUAL NOS (just like the Studebaker originals) control arm, and that ring is FLUSH all the way around. Must be massive spot welds? (the dimples). Contrast this to the other "NOS" arm (that stripped out), but I can only assume those round metal disks were welded on to 'finish them up and sell them off", as you can see the rather large globs of welds (in about three spots). No dimple/spot-welds.Click image for larger version

Name:	NOS control arm- later welding job.jpg
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ID:	1756045Click image for larger version

Name:	NOS control arm- real thing.jpg
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ID:	1756047Click image for larger version

Name:	bushing receiver weld gap.jpg
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ID:	1756048 Seems fine, for strength, but look at the partially threaded arm and the spreading gap at the end where NOT welded. (yes, my 2nd NOS upper arm was also like this but I learned my lesson, and welded the whole gap up and had no problems with THOSE pin bushings.)

    The photo with the "pin-bushing" (trunion nut to some) showing also clearly shows the gap between arm and this steel ring. I still think in addition to the poor stability (thus changing gap, hunting for 0.015 w/ spreader tool) and LOCKED UP kingpin everytime I tried) the metal used for these rings is a different hardness than the Studebaker originals, as mine stripped out with never getting above 150 ftlbs (I think, about max of my torque wrench), and my original arms threads look pretty solid; probably could have used them (and not throwing them out).

    So, just something to watch for and at least weld up

  • #2
    Thanks for the photos and explanation Barry. Fore armed and forewarned. I knew that torque was too high.


    • #3
      Thanks for the follow-up. I'm glad you saw the end of it.
      Nice day to all.