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Manual heater shut-off valve(availibility please)

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  • #16
    You got it Ken! ...Finally! The correct heater hose fittings are shown in the 1959-1964 Studebaker Chassis Parts Catalog as a straight nipple for the lower water pump inlet, and an elbow for the top water manifold outlet, both for 3/4" heater hoses. -NO valves!
    And check that heater control valve for full open and close function!

    StudeRich
    Studebakers Northwest
    Ferndale, WA
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #17
      yeah, and if your heater core blows on the road, you can always pinch the hoses off with vice grips or else loop the two fittings together to get you home. (you do at least carry a screwdriver in the glovebox, right?)

      nate

      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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      • #18
        quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

        Hi Gord! sure I am aware that for total shutoff you would need both ends sealed, but I can tell you that shutting off the input, with the control valve and keeping the pressure cap on the first stop (loose) has all but stopped the leak in my '59 Lark's heater core. Keep in mind that it is above the engine and getting no flow and no pressure. Whereas Ken's '61 Hawk has the core lower than the engine.

        Note also that '61's do not have the good Ranco valves like '53-'57 C & K's and Sedans, they have the plunger type (packing & nut) on '58-'61 Hawks, '59-'61 Larks, and Transtar Trucks. The ones that are hard to pull open & shut, always seize up, and are pretty much useless!

        StudeRich
        Studebakers Northwest
        Ferndale, WA
        Thanks, Rich. I didn't know that '61 Hawks used that wretched plunger valve. Talk about monkey-motion linkage, those things take the cake. If SI and other vendors sell a good substitute, then I'd go with that, or use the Dodge heater valve, a buck at your local Pick 'n Pull.

        You could probably leave the OEM valve in place (jammed wide open), with a dummy cable on it, and HIDE a ball valve elsewhere with the real control cable going to it, and fool the concourse judges. Best of both worlds.

        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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