Manual heater shut-off valve(availibility please)

[blackhawk61]

Looking for a replacement for this valve. All I seem to be able to find are not configured this way.(mostly 90 degrees)They won't work.Thanks for any help.
Ken


1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

Ken Byrd
Lewisville,NC

[gordr]

Ken, I don't think that is a factory part. If the car was equipped with a factory Climatizer, there should be a Ranco thermostatic valve installed through the firewall forward of the glove compartment.

My guess would be that a previous owner installed the petcock because the Ranco valve would no longer shut off.

You should be able to get a new Ranco valve, or else a rebuild kit for the existing one, if it is still there. An alternative would be to get an in-line heater valve as used on Dodge trucks of the '70s, and plumb it in near where the Ranco valve lived. Those in-line valves take very little effort to operate, and are positive in their action, so they work very well with the Studebaker factory control cables.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[blackhawk61]

Gord ,
My factory valve is fine. Did not know if this was a factory item but it fits and does not interfere with anything. Woul like to find one like it just for a summertime shut off.
Thanks,
Ken

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

Ken Byrd
Lewisville,NC

[Mark57]

Looks like something you might find at a plumbing supply store...

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar
3E-6/7-122 </h5>

[N8N]

yes, just get a 1/2" pipe nipple and coupler to move the valve out away from the water pump and then you'll have enough room to install whatever kind of valve you want.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[StudeRich]

OR, make sure the Ranco valve is all the way closed, the outside fender door is closed, and the under floor 4in. hose is solid, and there should be NO heat! [:0]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[blackhawk61]

Back to the original question please. I understand the operation of the heater.....There is no problem with the ranco valve...I know this is probably not an original factory part......I just want to know if anyone knows where I might find one like this one !

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

Ken Byrd
Lewisville,NC

[Rosstude]

[Studeman]

Hey Ken....
What's the matter with that one? It's a basic Needle Valve. If it's leaking, you can remove the stem and install a new packing under the nut. It's usually just an o-ring or leather washer.
If you just want it to look better... bring it over & we'll see what we can do.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[StudeRich]

Ken, FYI; those valves were normally installed on the heater input, at the top of the water manifold not the return. I could see why it was put there though, it's more out of the way, and out of sight. They looked pretty ugly on top! I have seen lots of those installed in the right place, but never on the return.
I just think it defeats the purpose of being able to turn the system off in case of a leak.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[gordr]

Rich, if the purpose of having a manual valve in the heater line is turn it off in the event of a heater leak, you'd need manual valves on BOTH hoses. After all, the system is pressurized, and the heater is lower than the engine, so even if it weren't pressurized, coolant would still run out whichever port was not shut off.

I still maintain that if the Ranco valve is working properly, no manual valve is needed. And of course your comments regarding the fender vent and duct hose are spot on!

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[StudeRich]

Hi Gord! sure I am aware that for total shutoff you would need both ends sealed, but I can tell you that shutting off the input, with the control valve and keeping the pressure cap on the first stop (loose) has all but stopped the leak in my '59 Lark's heater core. Keep in mind that it is above the engine and getting no flow and no pressure. Whereas Ken's '61 Hawk has the core lower than the engine.

Note also that '61's do not have the good Ranco valves like '53-'57 C & K's and Sedans, they have the plunger type (packing & nut) on '58-'61 Hawks, '59-'61 Larks, and Transtar Trucks. The ones that are hard to pull open & shut, always seize up, and are pretty much useless!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[N8N]

Rich,

for a '61 why not use an inline ball valve like used on VWs and probably tons of other cars if originality is not an issue?

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[StudeRich]

Yes, the replacement valves sold by the Stude. vendors work very well on Larks and Champs and should on Hawks.

I would not hesitate to do that if it were my driver, but most Hawks are getting pretty valuable as Kens certainly is, as an original car, so that would be a bit of a problem.

VW's have WATER? ...REAL V-dubs don't, I guess you have a wanna-be VW!

quote:Originally posted by N8N

Rich,
for a '61 why not use an inline ball valve like used on VWs and probably tons of other cars if originality is not an issue? nate

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[blackhawk61]

SO.......Is it the general opinion that I should just remove this valve since it is thought to be a non-original part ?....I really don't know if "came on the car".......But I kinda doubt that it did.

1961 Hawk 4BC,4-SPEED,TT

Ken Byrd
Lewisville,NC