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Master Mechanic Carter AFB and WCFB Jet Size and Rebuild Information

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  • Fuel System: Master Mechanic Carter AFB and WCFB Jet Size and Rebuild Information

    I found a PDF with some great AFB/WCFB information such as Jet and Rod Sizes, as well as a modification for the 3507 Supercharged AFB.

    It was pretty big so I just built one with Studebaker concerns. As you can see it also has info for other OEMs that used the AFB in the 60's

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_w...ew?usp=sharing

    This is my google drive





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    Last edited by SScopelli; 07-10-2019, 11:43 AM.

  • #2
    Great info! Got a link to the full manual?
    -------------------
    Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

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    • #3
      Here is where I extracted the pages from to make a simple one document.

      http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wi...earch_kind=and

      When you get here, you can change the search criteria. Massive amounts of information for a whole lot of cars..

      I compiled this document for 1963, which included the T-10 and the SN60 Supercharger rebuild instructions.

      https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_w...ew?usp=sharing

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      • #4
        Originally posted by SScopelli View Post
        Here is where I extracted the pages from to make a simple one document.

        http://restorecarsclassifieds.com/wi...earch_kind=and

        When you get here, you can change the search criteria. Massive amounts of information for a whole lot of cars..

        I compiled this document for 1963, which included the T-10 and the SN60 Supercharger rebuild instructions.

        https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_w...ew?usp=sharing
        Thanks - looks like a great resource!
        -------------------
        Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

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        • #5
          Thank you very much. There is some info here I haven't seen anywhere else.
          sigpic

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          • #6
            Definitely saving this one!

            Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

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            • #7
              I presume the 1964 page has the specs for the 3810 & 3811 S R4 Carbs. Mine were changed so many times trying to eek out another 10th in the quarter mile. I must have the original specs somewhere.
              Bill

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              • #8
                Just remember that this info is 50+ years old.
                Gas has changed. Exhaust restrictions have changed.
                Just don't treat it as gospel.
                Treat it as a good starting point.
                A good vacuum guage and A/F ratio meter will help dial you in to todays realities...
                HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                Jeff


                Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                  Just remember that this info is 50+ years old.
                  Gas has changed. Exhaust restrictions have changed.
                  Just don't treat it as gospel.
                  Treat it as a good starting point.
                  A good vacuum guage and A/F ratio meter will help dial you in to todays realities...
                  Agree Jeff, it will help establish a return to the baseline. Also you have to search eBay to find some of these Jets/Rods as the numbers have changed, and the Stude ones are not readily found even in vintage Carter "Strip Kits"

                  Thanks for stating this.

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                  • #10
                    I'm on my 4th Stude. As a matter of practice the first thing I do is send the carb to Dave Tebo while I update/ refresh the brakes and other essentials.

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                    • #11
                      Carter AFB Service Manual

                      I've scored another resource for rebuilding the 63-64 Carter AFBs for R1/R2 application..

                      This is really detailed and is an actual Carter document..

                      https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wu...pK_rwU9WMP-ynX

                      This is on my google drive..

                      Cater old 120-xxx to new decimal size chart.

                      https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Car...rt_ep_753.html
                      Last edited by SScopelli; 07-03-2019, 02:30 PM.

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                      • #12
                        These four barrel carburetors just look intimidating however they are not that complex to use. Most if not all of these carbs out of the factory do not need any "adjustments". Float levels should not need to be touched for its life time (unless somebody has messed with it), Idle speeds and high speed idle should not need to be touched. These adjustments are dependent on no vacuum leaks, if you have a vacuum leak and try to perform these adjustments, there is no telling what you will end up with. The proper operation of the high speed idle is dependent on proper operation of the choke heating system. If you mess with this and the heating system is not working right you will never get it right. In older carburetors jets can wear out oversize, oversize jets can cause erratic behavior and no amount of adjustment will fix it. Accelerator pump travel has three possible positions usually the center position is used. In situations of cold temperatures and high humidity carburetor ice can form down the throat and no amount of adjustment will fix this, just time and an elevated temperature. Adjusting the carburetor to counter this condition will only make things worse. The best cure is a block heater. Contaminated fuel can cause many unwanted issues and again adjusting the carburetor will not fix this. Sometimes disassembly is required to remove the contaminants and an upstream filter is your best counter. Different areas of the country, different altitudes and humidity content can require different positions on the adjustments, usually very limited. For the most part these carburetors do not NEED to be touched.

                        We use the term "vapor lock" too frequently for a variety of conditions. Carburetors do boil over from time to time causing the engine to die and the only cure for this condition is time, adjustments won't fix it. This condition is usually the result of a compromised cooling system or heat riser, and no adjustments will fix this. After the engine cools down and all the excess fuel has evaporated the engine will restart with no problems an run favourably for the remainder of the trip, Therefore it must have been a "vapor lock". Compromised cooling systems, vacuum leaks and contaminated fuel are your worst enemies (and carburetors in the hands of unskilled operators).

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