Cheap HD Engine Stand?

[DEEPNHOCK]

$7.99 ?????

http://tinyurl.com/25hodm

[Studeman]

Well,
$41.99 shipping helps...

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[53k]

quote:Originally posted by Studeman

Well,
$41.99 shipping helps...

Even then it's still pretty cheap. I think I paid about $40 for the two 1250-pound stands I have and that was more than 20 years ago.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine
1962 Gravely Model L (Studebaker-Packard serial plate)
1972 Gravely Model 430 (Studebaker name plate, Studebaker Onan engine)

[StudeRich]

The good ones, have full width front legs (cross bar) and they are way less shaky than these are.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[stuvw2mny]

Man o man did this thread get me thinking. Could a cheap engine stand or hoist be like cheap seat belts? How much torque do we apply to bolts on an engine sitting on such a stand (and consequently to the whole stand)? Where are our feet/legs when we are doing that? What is the quality of the welds on the stand? What is the strength of the bars in the stand? What is the strength of the bolts holding the stand together? I once twisted off the head of a new bolt while putting a new hoist together. Hardened bolts are possibly worth a lot more than they might cost. What country were the stands imported from? If it is a used stand was it once used to try to support a big-block engine?

I like to add a diagonal angle-iron brace between the vertical bar and the horizontal front-to-back bar of the stand. I sure agree that full length front legs add stability. I have had Stude V8 engines sitting on a stand for a couple of years. I am going to make it a habit to make close inspections of stands and hoists before using them in the future.

While I am on the subject of safety, please be aware that a polyester shirt is extremely dangerous if exposed to flame - it doesn't burn, it flashes. That is really hard on eyes, folks. Yes, I learned that from experience and I was very lucky.

[fstst56]

I bought an engine stand like that from Rural King 2 years ago when I changed the engine in my '56 Golden Hawk. When I tried to roll it, DOWN it came. I then ordered a stand from Summit. No problems.

[52hawk]

I borrowed one of these cheapies from a buddy-I can still hear the sound of a 350 chebby hitting the cement floor when she tipped[V]

LaSalle,Il
61Hawk

[jjones]

I bought one of those just like in the picture from Harbor Freight a couple of years ago--put a nailhead Buick on it and when I let the engine hoist down the Buick continued on the to floor, collapsing the new engine stand. I took it back and bought a NAPA one--it works fine.

Jeff

[buddymander]

those engine stands always made me nervous. No matter how big they are. I have a super heavy duty table and I just roll it around on that. A lot less dangerous to torque those mains. Course havin a fork lift helps a lot too..

[gordr]

I have a stand very similar to the one illustrated. Came from C.H. Ina and Co., by way of Princess Auto. It just got done supporting a '55 259 for work.

Yeah it is pretty wimpy. I was very cautious about putting my tender toes in Harm's way.

Those slotted link bars that attach the block to the rotating head are one of the worst features; they get quit a wow in them from the weight of the engine. I think it would be well worthwhile to build a special fixture, kind of like a cut-down scattershield, taylor-made to fit your engine of choice to the stand.

I have another super-deluxe engine stand. I bought a heavy-duty 4-wheel stand from Princess Auto, another chinese product, but the base is U-shaped instead of T-shaped, and it's made of thicker stock. I equipped it with 4 large rubber-tired casters, so it'll roll on dirt or gravel OK. I also equipped the rotating head with a slack adjuster and S-cam shaft (as used in semi-truck air brakes). I can rotate the engine slowly by simply turning a hand crank, and it stays wherever you choose to leave it. Thanks to Jeff Rice for the idea, BTW. This stand easily handled a Chevy 6.2 Diesel, and that's a heavier hunk of iron than a Stude V8. It has a Hercules engine sitting on it now, or i would have used it.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Swifster]

Cheap stands hurt. I bought a 750# stand because that's all the FLAPS had. When the full weight of my 289 (with A/C compressor) was on the stand, it folded in half. The engine didn't hit the ground, but it was dicey. Replaced it with a 1250# stand from Harbor Freight.

When I returned the stand, I was asked by the counter help what engine I put on it. I just said it was a '289' .

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Valrico, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

[wally]

I may be preaching to the choir, but I've found that the bottom-dollar stands you can buy may be seriveable for a tiny 4-cylinder engine with an alloy head(if you are very careful), but for a big V8, best go with the heavy-duty one that costs. I have one of both, and my 30-year old engine stand has square tubing that is not only bigger, but has greater wall thickness. It is the one I would use to assemble a 455 c.i. GM or a Stude 289.

"You Can't Have Everything--Where Would You Put It?" ---comedian Steven Wright