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  • Body / Glass: 1960 Hawk suggestions

    I just registered here and I plan to look at a 1960 Hawk and need some suggestions.
    Body rust is my greatest concern and the seller stated it had some.
    Where are the spots most likely to have rust?
    It is local, has the 289 with 3 speed overdrive trans and he is asking 4,500.
    Is that acceptable for a good running Hawk with decent body?
    I am not new to Studebaker and worked on them back in the 60s and 70s.


  • #2
    My 60 Hawk had rust at the rear of both front fenders, both rear corners in the trunk and some in both front floor panels. Also check the bottoms of the A pillars below the bottom door hinge. Good luck! It looks like a fairly solid car in the picture.

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    • #3
      Sometimes in high road salt areas you see the mud baffle in front of the rear wheel that goes from the inner Body wall to the inside of the Rear Fender has started rotting thru the Fender, it mounts Diagonally.

      The Driver and Passenger Floors as mentioned and #1 is always the rear edge of those front Fenders as also mentioned.
      If it is as solid as it looks, I'd say that is a very fair price.

      Are the Brakes and Suspension in fair condition, having had some maintenance over the years?
      Rebuilding a King Pin Front Suspension is no easy or cheap job.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        Also take a good look at the lower edge of the trunk lid. These are bad for rusting and if it gets up as high as the "ribs" there are no repair panels. Trunk weather strip channels are also bad for rust.

        The good news is you can get replacement sheet metal for the floors, rear edge of front fenders, trunk floor, weather strips etc. The only thing you can't get is good replacement metal for the trunk lid. Take a look at the classic enterprises web site before you go. That way you will know what type replacement metal is available.
        Wayne
        "Trying to shed my CASO ways"

        sigpic‚Äč

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        • #5
          don't forget to take a good look at the underbody! the frame, etc. should have no cancer (holes). surface rust is usually normal and easily repaired, but push on any bad looking spots to make sure they are solid.
          Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

          '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

          '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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          • #6
            Thanks to all and any future suggestions--just what I asked for !

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            • #7
              Thanks to all and any future suggestions--just what I asked for !

              Back in the 60s 70s, I was a certified mechanic, rebuilt many automatic transmissions, and some in Studebaker and always loved their unique body styling.
              Even though I was schooled on Ford, GM and Chrysler transmissions, I was not with Studebaker.
              It has been many years but I think the automatic transmission was Burg Warner? Correct me if I am wrong.
              Even today, I have to laugh when people suggest Studebaker engines were Ford 289--LOL.

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              • #8
                Yes, Auto transmissions were basically same as Ford-o-matic during this era.

                Here's the most comprehensive source for body repair panels. You will be looking in the C/K section: http://www.classicent.com/
                KURTRUK
                (read it backwards)




                Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln

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