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how do I remove center horn button and ring

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  • #16
    Wrong Pitman arm?...

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Mark L View Post
      If the end of the sector shaft has a master spline to engage the master spline of the pitman arm, how is it possible to get the pitman arm installed one or two splines off?

      With a master spline arrangement, I can possibly see the pitman arm being installed after being rotated 180 degrees about the long axis of the arm, such that the side that would normally face the engine is flipped so that it is facing away from the engine instead. In this case, the master spline would still engage properly, but now there might be a problem with the pitman arm being too close to the frame if the arm is made with an offset bend, or the tapered shaft of the reach rod not engaging into the taper of the pitman arm.
      Simply put, there is no master spline arrangement. That is a later (than Studebaker) development.
      Bo

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Bo Markham View Post
        Simply put, there is no master spline arrangement. That is a later (than Studebaker) development.
        That would then explain why it can be one or more splines off.
        Mark L

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        • #19
          taking some time to review earlier posts, the majority of responses are always on target. Funny how some just cant wait to add their stupid

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          • #20
            to respond to Christophe, you were correct as the replacements sent out from 2 different vendors were much to thick. I was able to salvage the original
            Mark

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            • #21
              I had the same problem with the O-ring. I ended up cutting a narrow strip of glass setting tape, that fit the groove. It was the perfect thickness, and glass setting tape is a little bit sticky by nature, so it worked out well. I agree with others here. The pitman arm, or tie rods should be adjusted to get things back to the original steering wheel location. Then an alignment.

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              • #22
                If things have gotten out of adjustment over the years you may have to start from scratch. The procedure for that is to count the turns lock to lock, and go halfway to center the steering gear. Then adjust the left tie rod until the left tire is pointing straight ahead, making sure the steering gear has remained centered. Next adjust the toe in with the right tie rod. Now the steering gear should be centered with the wheels pointed straight, and you can level the steering wheel.
                Dwight 54 Commander hardtop

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                • #23
                  As to o-ring being too thick, if you have a belt sander, you can put the o-ring around a can it fits snugly on, hold the can loosly and let the can via the o-ring spin against the belt sander until it fits.
                  sigpic

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                  • #24
                    So after 19 months, has this Hawk Steering Gear been PROPERLY fixed by now or what?

                    If you had your "Mechanic" reposition the Steering wheel, the Car would wander all over the road because the Steering Gear is not centered.

                    The horn button is a non-important issue and a simple fix.
                    StudeRich
                    Second Generation Stude Driver,
                    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by mch View Post
                      to respond to Christophe, you were correct as the replacements sent out from 2 different vendors were much to thick. I was able to salvage the original
                      Mark
                      Thanks for your confirmation, Mark.
                      I still can't believe that our vendors can't find a correct replacement for this. This is not a big deal, of course, but I think that someone in a hurry could easily break the button while trying to use one of these.
                      Nice day to all.
                      sigpic

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