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Lark Rear Engine support cross member. replacement plan

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  • Alan
    replied
    You are right, no over thinking. Find another cross member and modify it. Just cutting a semi-circular piece out of the center and putting in a strip of .120" steel is the best you can do. The Top loader face to center of the motor mount bolt holes is 15 7/8". That top loader is another looser, the only time I would use one of those is if I were running a 70's Furd and had to use it in class. Get your self a 5 speed, you will be glad you did.
    Last edited by Alan; 08-15-2017, 03:24 PM.

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  • creegster
    replied
    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    I like the way the exhaust is routed, since it will help keep heat away from the floor in hot weather. I'd leave the exhaust as is, and fab something to connect both sides of the bat wing good and solid, then call it a day.
    Well, the exhaust is now the lowest point under the car and scrapes on occasion.

    My biggest concern is that since I only have the batwings and no middle, those batwings have sagged. I have no way to check that as I dont have an intact cross member to measure against.
    I think what I need to do is get a full, intact crossmember and use that as a template to make a new from-scratch full crossmember that will have the correct height for all parts (and still allow access to the trans).

    Based on what some are saying, that may be overthinking this whole thing though.

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  • creegster
    replied
    Originally posted by Alan View Post
    Your cross member has been cut into 3 pieces and the center has been removed. You really like to use odd ball stuff. There were a number of input shaft lengths and spline counts on those top loaders, so I couldn't tell you exactly what you need. The mount positions are close but I would have to go out and measure them to tell you, plus on some top loaders you will have to use a McLoed 3/4" adapter to mount it to the Chev. bell housing.
    Thanks, but I dont plan on swapping out the trans with a new one unless that is my only option. Note that Ive had this car about 2 months: it came this way. Im trying to get it solid again.

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  • JoeHall
    replied
    I like the way the exhaust is routed, since it will help keep heat away from the floor in hot weather. I'd leave the exhaust as is, and fab something to connect both sides of the bat wing good and solid, then call it a day.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    Your cross member has been cut into 3 pieces and the center has been removed. You really like to use odd ball stuff. There were a number of input shaft lengths and spline counts on those top loaders, so I couldn't tell you exactly what you need. The mount positions are close but I would have to go out and measure them to tell you, plus on some top loaders you will have to use a McLoed 3/4" adapter to mount it to the Chev. bell housing.

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  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by creegster View Post
    Thats an interesting idea! The 65/66 crossmember will fit? That is the Cruiser/Daytona, right? They have some of the same chassis parts?

    Regarding the Ford Toploader: since I have a Chevy 350/350, and the Trans already has a custom mount (as you can see in the pics), I dont think I need that; please correct me if Im wrong, still learning.

    The only thing that might be an issue is that the 65/66: while that is setup for aChevy engine, it might expect the mounts to be in a different place. That means I would have to move the whole power plant to accommodate that one crossmember. Is that right? Is there something Im missing here?

    The exhaust is a mess and needs to be redone as its currently the lowest point under the car (which I dont like), so that will be rerouted properly when I have the $ and everything else is sorted.

    Thanks for the advice, I like options!

    - - - Updated - - -



    How can you tell that there were 2 cross members?
    And what are the "ears" on the batwings?
    No idea what will be where with your swap. Just mentioned the crossmember as it will bolt in and add some strength. Didn't see the pics. You already have something similar.

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  • creegster
    replied
    Well, I added some more photos. Im not sure if these help show what is going on. Im going to have to see if I can get the wife to help take some more photos if you tell me exactly what would help.

    These show the span from the lowest point on the cross member, and the tape measure shows how much space there is between that straight line across to the underside of the tranny pan. Approx 1 3/4"

    There is also a photo that shows the span from the frame, and shows the space from there to the underside of the tranny pan. Approx 1"

    https://goo.gl/photos/i6JHB3JrY6nqTjC26
    Last edited by creegster; 08-14-2017, 09:26 AM.

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  • Alan
    replied
    No, Rich. I was thinking that it is like my Avanti with it's 1555889 cross member. I don't have a Parts Catalog for the Lark, since I don't own one. But he should still put a modified stocker in there unless he wants to dump his old lady out in the street when he makes a quick left turn.

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  • creegster
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    The batwing shaped crossmember was on Coupe and Hardtops '53-'55 and '56-'64 Hawks, I think Alan may have forgotten this is a Lark Hardtop.

    There is an added Crossmember behind the Trans that looks very much like a '65-'66 Chev. Powered Stude. so I don't think you could add one there.

    The outboard ends of the Body and Engine support Crossmember are still there, but could use more support by tying them together with a heavy Ga. steel plate. Just like Mike said in Post #5.
    Thanks for the clarification. It appears that the best solution is still to get an original, full, cross-member, and try to install that. Then, start removing metal as needed for clearance and adding reinforcement to accommodate for any removed metal. My concern is that by just adding a middle piece (and keeping the current "wing" pieces), Im not going to get everything trued up.

    Or, am I being too particular about this and should just install a cross-member?

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    The batwing shaped crossmember was on Coupe and Hardtops '53-'55 and '56-'64 Hawks, I think Alan may have forgotten this is a Lark Hardtop.

    There is an added Crossmember behind the Trans that looks very much like a '65-'66 Chev. Powered Stude. so I don't think you could add one there.

    The outboard ends of the Body and Engine support Crossmember are still there, but could use more support by tying them together with a heavy Ga. steel plate. Just like Mike said in Post #5.

    Leave a comment:


  • creegster
    replied
    Originally posted by Skybolt View Post
    For added strength you could also install a crossmember from a 65/66 Studebaker that came with the Chevrolet engines. I have done this to my 59 Lark for reducing some flex, although I can't say how much, and I lengthened the mounting plate to use a transmission mount for a Ford Toploader. The crossmember bolts in and clears all original mechanicals. One thing though some of the rivets in the chassis need to be removed so bolts can be installed. If you are still using the Chevrolet engine and transmission I can't say what clearance there would be with the exhaust.
    Thats an interesting idea! The 65/66 crossmember will fit? That is the Cruiser/Daytona, right? They have some of the same chassis parts?

    Regarding the Ford Toploader: since I have a Chevy 350/350, and the Trans already has a custom mount (as you can see in the pics), I dont think I need that; please correct me if Im wrong, still learning.

    The only thing that might be an issue is that the 65/66: while that is setup for aChevy engine, it might expect the mounts to be in a different place. That means I would have to move the whole power plant to accommodate that one crossmember. Is that right? Is there something Im missing here?

    The exhaust is a mess and needs to be redone as its currently the lowest point under the car (which I dont like), so that will be rerouted properly when I have the $ and everything else is sorted.

    Thanks for the advice, I like options!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Originally posted by Alan View Post
    There have been 2 cross members removed or butched up. The bat wing, at least the ears are still there.
    How can you tell that there were 2 cross members?
    And what are the "ears" on the batwings?

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    For added strength you could also install a crossmember from a 65/66 Studebaker that came with the Chevrolet engines. I have done this to my 59 Lark for reducing some flex, although I can't say how much, and I lengthened the mounting plate to use a transmission mount for a Ford Toploader. The crossmember bolts in and clears all original mechanicals. One thing though some of the rivets in the chassis need to be removed so bolts can be installed. If you are still using the Chevrolet engine and transmission I can't say what clearance there would be with the exhaust.

    Leave a comment:


  • Alan
    replied
    There have been 2 cross members removed or butched up. The bat wing, at least the ears are still there.

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  • creegster
    replied
    One other note: they they cut out the transmission hump and put in a larger one that takes up more space in the foot area. Not a big deal, just helps with some perspective.

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  • creegster
    replied
    Here are some pics, hope this helps
    https://goo.gl/photos/nqU45tjN278Mafp59

    Whover did the exhaust needs to find a different profession. These could be way better.

    Tomorrow, with the help of a friend, I can take some pictures with a ruler spanning the middle section, and also take some measurements. It looks like the tranny pan is right about where the top 1/3 of the crossmember should be. More pics and measurements will help.

    Leave a comment:

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