Lark Rear Engine support cross member. replacement plan

[Skybolt]

Thats an interesting idea! The 65/66 crossmember will fit? That is the Cruiser/Daytona, right? They have some of the same chassis parts?

Regarding the Ford Toploader: since I have a Chevy 350/350, and the Trans already has a custom mount (as you can see in the pics), I dont think I need that; please correct me if Im wrong, still learning.

The only thing that might be an issue is that the 65/66: while that is setup for aChevy engine, it might expect the mounts to be in a different place. That means I would have to move the whole power plant to accommodate that one crossmember. Is that right? Is there something Im missing here?

The exhaust is a mess and needs to be redone as its currently the lowest point under the car (which I dont like), so that will be rerouted properly when I have the $ and everything else is sorted.

Thanks for the advice, I like options!

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How can you tell that there were 2 cross members?
And what are the "ears" on the batwings?

No idea what will be where with your swap. Just mentioned the crossmember as it will bolt in and add some strength. Didn't see the pics. You already have something similar.

[Alan]

Your cross member has been cut into 3 pieces and the center has been removed. You really like to use odd ball stuff. There were a number of input shaft lengths and spline counts on those top loaders, so I couldn't tell you exactly what you need. The mount positions are close but I would have to go out and measure them to tell you, plus on some top loaders you will have to use a McLoed 3/4" adapter to mount it to the Chev. bell housing.

[JoeHall]

I like the way the exhaust is routed, since it will help keep heat away from the floor in hot weather. I'd leave the exhaust as is, and fab something to connect both sides of the bat wing good and solid, then call it a day.

[creegster]

Your cross member has been cut into 3 pieces and the center has been removed. You really like to use odd ball stuff. There were a number of input shaft lengths and spline counts on those top loaders, so I couldn't tell you exactly what you need. The mount positions are close but I would have to go out and measure them to tell you, plus on some top loaders you will have to use a McLoed 3/4" adapter to mount it to the Chev. bell housing.

Thanks, but I dont plan on swapping out the trans with a new one unless that is my only option. Note that Ive had this car about 2 months: it came this way. Im trying to get it solid again.

[creegster]

I like the way the exhaust is routed, since it will help keep heat away from the floor in hot weather. I'd leave the exhaust as is, and fab something to connect both sides of the bat wing good and solid, then call it a day.

Well, the exhaust is now the lowest point under the car and scrapes on occasion.

My biggest concern is that since I only have the batwings and no middle, those batwings have sagged. I have no way to check that as I dont have an intact cross member to measure against.
I think what I need to do is get a full, intact crossmember and use that as a template to make a new from-scratch full crossmember that will have the correct height for all parts (and still allow access to the trans).

Based on what some are saying, that may be overthinking this whole thing though.

[Alan]

You are right, no over thinking. Find another cross member and modify it. Just cutting a semi-circular piece out of the center and putting in a strip of .120" steel is the best you can do. The Top loader face to center of the motor mount bolt holes is 15 7/8". That top loader is another looser, the only time I would use one of those is if I were running a 70's Furd and had to use it in class. Get your self a 5 speed, you will be glad you did.