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moulding removal

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  • moulding removal

    Ok, I've come to realize that my 1st 57 studebaker hawk rebuild is a tiny bit more than instinct and common sense. I would love to know how to remove the roof line 1" stainless moulding that borders the entire front windshield roofline and comes around on both sides to the rear 1/4' panels. I started by thinking it was hooked on and you could peel it off but I got 1" and bent it. please help.

    gcarr

  • #2
    If you are referring to the rain gutter stainless mouldings, my method is to leave them on unless absolutely necessary to remove them. Yes, they basically wrap around/hook on. First remove the clips where there are joints. I am sure that others can give you better advice. As I said, I leave them on.

    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer
    Gary L.
    Wappinger, NY

    SDC member since 1968
    Studebaker enthusiast much longer

    Comment


    • #3
      Yes I think I will. Thanks alot

      gcarr

      Comment


      • #4
        I saw a beautifully restored car (I won't say which one) in South Bend last June. The only real distraction was that they'd obviously removed the rain rail stainless and then put it back on. It really was a cryin' shame, because the overall finish of the car simply could not hide the fact that that moulding was distorted and ill-fitting. The only time I've EVER removed them was to save them from a car I was reducing to parts. While they suffered some from being teased off, they'd be a boon to somebody missing one or two pieces.[^]

        Miscreant adrift in
        the BerStuda Triangle


        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe

        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          I watched a fellow remove about three feet of it, and putit back on. It is very tricky and can be done, but in no way worth the effort.

          I cannot describe the method but he just grabbed the underside by the window and carefully lifted it up, the, it comes off the rain gutter lip.

          Comment


          • #6
            I use a old fashion bottle opener to pop it off the bottom lip.

            JDP/Maryland
            63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
            spent to date $54664,75
            64 R2 GT (Sid)
            spent to date $62,839.60
            63 Lark 2 door
            51 Commander
            39 Coupe express
            39 Coupe express (rod)

            JDP Maryland

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by JDP

              I use a old fashion bottle opener to pop it off the bottom lip.

              JDP/Maryland

              I can see hooking a can opener under the lower/bottom part of it (I have seen it done this way), but I can't visualize how you can get a "bottle opener" to grip it.

              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer

              Comment


              • #8
                Gary, a bottle opener takes it off quite easily. Thing is, even the most careful method of removal will distort these things to some degree.
                I once made a tool out of a piece of half inch thick oak. It was shaped sorta like a crowbar or walking-head prybar. It worked as well as one coulde expect, but the trim was toast once it was off.

                Another thing to consider is the way this moulding snaps back on when reinstalling. Unless you've got SUPER-Grip to your new (assuming it's new)paint job, you risk flecking new paint off as you push this stuff back on.[xx(]

                Miscreant adrift in
                the BerStuda Triangle


                1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                1960 Larkvertible V8
                1958 Provincial wagon
                1953 Commander coupe

                No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Removing the gutter trim should be a decision as too how far you are going with paint and body. You can't bead blast or dip a body with that trim on. I'm not sure there is anymore dings in removal and replacing as to what is normal road wear or original installation.

                  I'll take a ding or two over bad tape jobs with paint missing or overspray.........

                  It is an addiction!
                  It is an addiction!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Leave the drip rail trim on, Studebaker used some really thin stainless for their trim (all of it), but the drip rail trim is the thinest...other manufactures seem to have used thicker material from experience studes are the hardest to remove without damage.

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                    • #11
                      We played a bit with my soda blaster and the thought occurred to me the drip rail area would be perfect use for that item. It'll remove the paint without harming the stainless. Not a perfect solution since it won't strip the paint under the stainless and you still have a masking issue.

                      JDP/Maryland
                      63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
                      spent to date $54664,75
                      64 R2 GT (Sid)
                      spent to date $62,839.60
                      63 Lark 2 door
                      51 Commander
                      39 Coupe express
                      39 Coupe express (rod)

                      JDP Maryland

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I removed the drip rail trim off my 52 hardtop because we went down to bare metal for paint. You just have to be really, really careful. The pieces over the doors are not so tough.

                        In my eyes the biggest problem is the piece above the windshield. This does not have a prominent metal lip to snap on to. (don't know how similar '57 is). What the trim snaps to is very wimpy kind of tack strip sheet metal thingy and easily damaged as your body guy runs big sanders around. And if that tack strip gets damaged, the trim has nothing left to snap to. Big problems follow.

                        Dan
                        52 hardtop
                        www.studebakerhardtop.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks very much. I have decided not to remove it. I can do the restoration without the removal of it.

                          gcarr

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