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'63 lark clutch replacement

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  • Clutch/Torque Converter: '63 lark clutch replacement

    I am new to Studebakers, and need some advice please. I just purchased a '63 Lark "6" with O.D., needs a clutch presure plate throw out bearing. also the starter needs help, does not engage at times. Main issue, How difficult is it to get the clutch parts and a rebuilt starter. This car has been unused for quite some time and needs a lot of TLC, has around 55,000 miles on it sounds really strong. Probably will need to replace the fue pump while I am at it. Also, How difficult of a job is replacing the clutch in these cars? Any sujjestions and or help will be appreciated, thanks, Arnie.

  • #2
    I did this fairly recently on a 62 Lark Six, it's not bad. Remove driveshaft from back of transmission, remove shift linkage, clutch release, cables, wiring etc. for OD, then remove the four bolts from from the transmission to bellhousing. You will need to support the engine on the back, as the rear mounts are part of the bell housing and the transmission sort of just hangs there. Then you need to go all the way around and remove the bellhousing and such. Not really different than any other car.

    Parts are available from Studebaker International, Studebakers West (in California), eBay and many other sources. I found the pressure plate on mine being in good shape after 85,000 miles, so I reused it.

    Good luck!

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    • #3
      Since it is apart you might want to dial indicate the bellhousing. If it had been perfectly vibration free be fore this is a good idea. If you have never done it you should enlist the aid of someone who has. When you put it together you must use a clutch alignment tool or a transmission input shaft to insure that the pressure plate is aligned with the pilot bearing (which probably should be replaced too) I used to just pick up a transmission and shove it in the hole, but now I use a cheap Harbor Freight transmission jack that actually works just fine and has saved me from dropping a transmission on my head. Adjustment can be difficult on a studebaker. Be sure there is adequate free pedal or the throw-out bearing won't last 100 miles. Good luck. This is a great place to ask advice, and remember that the only dumb question is the one you did not ask!

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      • #4
        Sourcing the parts is relatively easy, but for a first timer, I recommend ordering the clutch parts from a vendor. Although they are available from many sources, the listings for our older cars are notoriously incorrect, resulting in mismatched, wrong and often poor quality replacement parts. It isn't a job you want to start and then have to stop, because the new part doesn't match what you are removing. I would recommend, removing the flywheel as well as the clutch, having it surfaced at a local machine shop, as it will be easily removable, and if your clutch chatters after you install it and you didn't have that done, you will be faced with doing it all over again. Welcome to the forum, buy a repair manual and parts manual, either on CD or paper for your vehicle (most vendors can supply)--you'll need it, or anyone you get to do something for you will need it.

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        • #5
          You may be able to find a local driveline repair company that offers clutch relining. I recently had such a place reline my clutch plate for $50.
          sigpic
          In the middle of MinneSTUDEa.

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