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63 Lark and 64 Commander work started

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  • #16
    I wish you weren't so far away... I've got some beautiful front fenders, hood, trunk and grill for the 64. I can't seem to give them away.
    sals54

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    • #17
      I have a 259 in a shop with untrue connecting rods that caused excessive friction between the connecting rod and crankshaft, before reassembly have the big ends confirmed true.

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      • #18
        ^will do,

        I figure it cant hurt to do some more prep work on the engines while I wait for a good time to get the heads checked. I'm looking for any obvious signs that I should abandon the block, right now my only expense has been tools and the stand.
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJBpwNoPZus&t=72s
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUZ0gRGtiBk

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        • #19
          Garthok,look hard at intake valve seats. they tend to crack toward spark plug hole from down in int. port. they seem to crack in the same place usually also. keep us posted on your progress. i have a head that looks OK and 185 crank that needs a new home. I'm in Ar so not to far. Luck Doofus

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Garthok View Post
            ^will do,

            I figure it cant hurt to do some more prep work on the engines while I wait for a good time to get the heads checked. I'm looking for any obvious signs that I should abandon the block, right now my only expense has been tools and the stand.
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJBpwNoPZus&t=72s
            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUZ0gRGtiBk
            This is not like having a 'normal' engine head checked for cracks. Most will have cracks. Proceed accordingly.

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            • #21
              Pulled the Commander's engine with transmission still attached, it wont come off! I was able to get the bell housing separated by ~1/4 in from the block but it appears that the transmission is stuck on the input shaft. I'm guessing its a bit rusted. Any Ideas on removing the transmission from the engine? I have sprayed oil into the housing through the hole up top hopefully loosens something.

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              • #22
                Two years after starting work, the engine is back in the Lark and shows some signs of life. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toZDTp2pWAI

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                • #23
                  I listened to your Video and all I can say is, I believe the timing is close enough to run, all you need is MORE Gas!

                  Fresh Gas would help, but it sounds exactly like it just runs out.
                  What I would do is put a fitting in that Carb. that will except a Hose to run to a Mustard or Ketchup bottle of Gas wired up to the hood and let gravity allow it to RUN!
                  It can also be used squirt enough Fuel into the Carb. to fill it to run a Minute or so.

                  I have had a Plastic Ketchup Bottle for over 30 years that has tapered cone nozzle for a Cap, and a 5/16" Fuel Hose tightens right on it with a little push and works great to run temporarily.

                  A small Funnel and Hose will also work if hand held.
                  Last edited by StudeRich; 02-06-2019, 04:09 PM.
                  StudeRich
                  Second Generation Stude Driver,
                  Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                  • #24
                    OHV 6

                    I've sent a PM to you.
                    Kim

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                    • #25
                      Other than seeing a decent main bearing in the second video in post #18 we have no idea what you have done with the engine. Yes, we saw the assembled engine in the car sort of running (so we know it is back together) but that is all. I get the impression you are taking an "If it ain't broke don't fix it approach" which I admire and thus my curiosity.
                      '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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