Cool/Heat: '62 GT Hawk, under fender heater blower.

[San Diego Ron]

Mine is not working and would like to hot-wire it to see if it is motor or something else. The (dryer Vent hose) has been removed and can see bird cage is not turning. Problem is the whole blower motor unit has been covered in undercoating and can't tell how to get to wires or even how to remove entire unit. Maybe more important...where and what should I look for in a shop manual? Tried looking under SEARCH for heater blower removal but didn't connect with anything. Just had under seat heater re-cored and defroster blower is working but not tested for leaks along with heater control switch (entire heating system has been by-passed by previous owner)...stupid me, don't even know if water flow direction is from water pump or the upper cross piece that holds thermostat. Thanks for any advise in getting me started in right direction, in a fog in San Diego.

[junior]

Jeez, San Diego and you need a heater? lol, just giving you a rough time. If the system design did not change from 1953 in order to get the motor out you have to remove the whole unit from the car, open up the two halves of the case, remove the squirrel cage and remove the nuts from the two studs that hold the motor in. Try to directly hook up 12v to the motor bypassing the switch to see if the motor works first. The whole unit is held on by 3 bolts passing through the mounting bracket and inner fender. cheers, junior

[jackb]

As I recall, removing that set up is a real pain. But maybe worth it to get everything functioning correctly and done once for your lifetime. A shortcut would be to place a small (or any) mower battery on the floor, after you have pulled the blower switch off the dash (if you have the right special removing-type tool), then simply connect (briefly) the red and/or orange wires to see if the motor spins. Most Stude blower motors have seen their day by now if original

[brngarage]

Removing the blower assembly is easy, just try to have a friend handy to support the assembly when you remove the last bolt. Taking the large duct off may be a little difficult.

[Pete R]

I have a 12v blower/motor like this that I'm preparing for use in my '54 that I'm converting from 6 to 12 volts. I tested it with a 12v battery charger. It was a little squeaky when running at first so I dripped a few drops of machine oil where the motor shaft enters the birdcage; that took care of the squeak. One thing I don't understand is that there are 3 wires coming out of my motor--a black wire attached to the blower housing (a ground wire) and two other wires (orange and red). Why are there two wires in addition to the ground wire? Is it a two-speed motor?

[jackb]

2 speeds.... some trucks were 1 speed (my 62' 7E7)

[StudeRich]

2 speeds.... some trucks were 1 speed (my 62' 7E7)

I THINK I seem to remember someone maybe you, mentioning this issue before Jack, the answer is the same.

Sounds like a bad or WRONG Switch, Wiring or Motor, as ALL Studebaker Heater & Defrost Fans have 2 Speeds.

If you use a Single Speed Motor as used on '47 to '58 Studes. with a '59-62 Lark, Champ or Transtar 2 Speed Switch, that is what you will get.

It takes a Resister on the "Low" speed Terminal of the Switch to produce 2 Speeds on single speed Motors.

[StudeRich]

Ron, the UPPER Heater Hose on the Water Manifold is your "HOT" incoming Water Hose to the Control Valve.

Both 5/8" Hoses SHOULD have the Special Studebaker 5/8" Hose to 3/8" Hose Adapter "T" 's to allow the 3/8" Input Hose to go through the Defrost Core before the under Seat Core but AFTER the Control Valve.

[rkapteyn]

In 1962 Studebaker switched to 2 speed blower motors.
Orange and red wires are either high speed or low speed (forgot which is which).
Black is ground.
Put 12 volt (+) to either red or orange and black to ground and the motors should run.
On the earlier cars there was a resistor on the heater switch to reduce the voltage to the motor for low speed.
These were fine when new but gave problems after 50 some years.
The 1962 motors cured the heater switch resistor problem on the 1962 cars and will fit the older cars but you will have to use the 1962 switch .

[San Diego Ron]

Put the 12 volt from battery to the red wire and blower still dead, about to pull the unit for tear down and replacement (was told GM blower same as Studebaker).

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

Put the 12 volt from battery to the red wire and blower still dead, about to pull the unit for tear down and replacement (was told GM blower same as Studebaker).

Remember, you must use a sealed blower motor for Hawk under the fender applications through 1962. Most blower motors are ventilated and that would not work in this environment.

[Pete R]

In 1962 Studebaker switched to 2 speed blower motors.
Orange and red wires are either high speed or low speed (forgot which is which).
Black is ground.
Put 12 volt (+) to either red or orange and black to ground and the motors should run.
On the earlier cars there was a resistor on the heater switch to reduce the voltage to the motor for low speed.
These were fine when new but gave problems after 50 some years.
The 1962 motors cured the heater switch resistor problem on the 1962 cars and will fit the older cars but you will have to use the 1962 switch .

Thank you. That's what I needed to know.

Pete

[San Diego Ron]

I thank you too Oregon, that makes a big difference and good to know.

[Bill Graepel]

1956 Power Hawk in fender mounted blower motor. 2 speeds are controlled by the dash switch. I used a blower motor from Advance Auto Parts pn# 35502 and it is a perfect fit / bolt in part. It is vented, but easy to remedy with a grommet to fill the hole. Took me a while to find one that i did not have to modify and it costs less than $30.
It has a black (ground) and orange (power) wire. Runs clockwise or CCW depending on how you wire it. Works well with the original 2 speed switch on the dash.
Bill Graepel

[Pete R]

Bill, That's a nice find. I will probably get one for my 12-volt '54.

Pete