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'62 GT Hawk, under fender heater blower.

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  • #16
    Incidentally, for those who might be interested in a quality upgrade of the 4" heater hose itself, I found a good one with Blastgate Co., 14219 East 10 mile Rd., Warren, MI 48089. It's type CWGP - Industrial hose but is available only in 12-½ foot lengths at $8.17 per foot. They do have a "Drop Box" of randoms lengths and you may be able to find a shorter piece like I did. It's double ply neoprene with a heavy internal metal spiral banding.

    Click image for larger version

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    Bill L.
    1962 GT Hawk


    • #17
      Originally posted by Bill Graepel View Post
      1956 Power Hawk in fender mounted blower motor. 2 speeds are controlled by the dash switch. I used a blower motor from Advance Auto Parts pn# 35502 and it is a perfect fit / bolt in part. It is vented, but easy to remedy with a grommet to fill the hole. Took me a while to find one that i did not have to modify and it costs less than $30.
      [ATTACH=CONFIG]77800[/ATTACH] It has a black (ground) and orange (power) wire. Runs clockwise or CCW depending on how you wire it. Works well with the original 2 speed switch on the dash.
      Bill Graepel
      My 1962 GT Hawk heater was "growling" and I thought the motor might be shot and I was going to replace it. I was going to settle for the single-speed AAP P/N 35502 $26.00 two-wire motor you suggested in my 2-speed heater system since the three-wire replacement motors are about $100.00 (I know, CASO!) But I thought I take the blower system apart first. I also disassembled the electric motor and lubed the shaft ends and the motor spun just fine and didn't make any noise. What I did find is that someone had replaced the motor in the past and didn't shorten the two motor mounting studs to the bracket and the blower cage was rubbing against the ends of the studs and causing the noise -- so I cut them shorter.

      As you know the AAP 35502 motor not only has a large ¾" ventilation hole that needs to be plugged but has a row of vent holes in the housing at the shaft end. But these are covered up by the gasket.

      Works great now, and no noise! At least I had the chance to replace both hoses with the Blastgate 4" hose I mentioned below. At 81, I hope I'll never have to do that job again! BTW, the 1959-1964 Shop Manual shows the Climatizer for C models almost at the end of the manual.

      Click image for larger version

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      Last edited by 56GH; 01-19-2019, 11:25 AM. Reason: More info
      Bill L.
      1962 GT Hawk


      • #18
        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
        Ron, the UPPER Heater Hose on the Water Manifold is your "HOT" incoming Water Hose to the Control Valve.

        Both 5/8" Hoses SHOULD have the Special Studebaker 5/8" Hose to 3/8" Hose Adapter "T" 's to allow the 3/8" Input Hose to go through the Defrost Core before the under Seat Core but AFTER the Control Valve.

        I know this is an older thread, but can you elaborate on the hose routing? I understand the upper hose being the "hot" which then goes to the control valve with a tee in-between for the defroster. I assume there is a direction for the "hot" input and output to both the defroster and the control valve? Also, how are the hoses routed through the engine compartment? The "lower" hose went down past the right motor mount and I believe the upper hose went over the generator. Someone used pipe strap to attach the upper heater hose to the fender well. I am getting ready to install new hoses, control valve and floor heater. The service manual wasn't really clear on it. Thanks.

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        • #19
          Post #13 here shows the Factory Clamp used on most Models.

          The Parts Catalog is always your best for Parts placement and good Pics of their shape, the Cooling System Pic shows the Routing.

          Here is one for an older Model but should have the same connection Points:

          Last edited by StudeRich; 04-23-2019, 01:57 PM.
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner