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Surface Coverage And Other Help

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  • Paint: Surface Coverage And Other Help

    I'm going to buy paint, and spray my Sky Hawk myself, but I have a few questions. First off, I've only ever painted one car before, and it was lacquer...color and clear. I used that because it was basically idiot proof. I'd like to know if acrylic urethane base coat is as idiot proof as lacquer...idiot proof with regards to sanding out imperfections, and ease of application, like lacquer. Then how much is needed to cover the body from the belt line chrome down(56 sky Hawk)? Also, quantity needed from the belt line up (two tone). And finally, quantity of clear lacquer for the whole car...enough to cover so it can be color sanded/buffed. I realize that this is a lot of info, but with the cost of paint I don't want to order more than needed. Ball Park figures would be just fine. Thanks, guys...

  • #2
    My opinion, and mine only, is that base coat-clear coat systems are not "idiot" proof at all. Dirt specs, bugs, sanding flaws, show up fast, but it "cures" slow. That makes it much more dependent on perfect prep work and very clean spray work, or else it will take you days, to do minutes worth of painting. They look great when done, but really need the right equipment and environment. The clear coat is not forgiving, and can run easily--before you realize it, and takes a lot of work to get rid of. The clear is not "lacquer" but also a two part Urethane and has to be mixed, and sprayed right and within a time frame. All that being said, the base and clear go a lot further than the old lacquer. Since you are a "do it yourselfer" like me, spend the extra money and get too much, rather than "just enough", I know this stuff is expensive, but reordering and crossing your fingers it will match, isn't worth it. Do not attempt to use the two part clear over any lacquer on the car already--it will craze it, lift it and curdle it-sometimes, even down to the metal, the thinners are too "hot" and not compatible with old acrylic lacquer.
    OPPS forgot to mention they are very carcinogenic, do not use without proper body protection and breathing equipment-they will kill you!!
    Last edited by karterfred88; 11-30-2016, 09:12 AM.

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    • #3
      Back in my past, when I painted K bodies with a single coat paint system, I figured five quarts for the body plus one quart for the roof. This did not include the necessary reducer, just the color.
      Gary L.
      Wappinger, NY

      SDC member since 1968
      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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      • #4
        Originally posted by studegary View Post
        Back in my past, when I painted K bodies with a single coat paint system, I figured five quarts for the body plus one quart for the roof. This did not include the necessary reducer, just the color.
        How much of that paint went up in overspray?? My old Devilbiss gun could really make a smoke screen.... First time I used an HVLP, I was amazed how much paint was left over. Then I found an LVLP and that makes you a pro in 10 minutes. Just wear the right mask in any case...
        64 GT Hawk (K7)
        1970 Avanti (R3)

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 64V-K7 View Post
          How much of that paint went up in overspray?? My old Devilbiss gun could really make a smoke screen.... First time I used an HVLP, I was amazed how much paint was left over. Then I found an LVLP and that makes you a pro in 10 minutes. Just wear the right mask in any case...
          Bob, besides the lower air consumption, what is it about the LVLP gun that allows you to paint better than with a HVLP?
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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          • #6
            I will be using a HVLP gun with a 1.5 tip...

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            • #7
              There is a paint company called Kirker I've used a few times , It gives a nice shine and does not seem to run or fish eye as much as the higher price spreads although I do use fish eye eliminator , I use their acrylic enamel with hardener , I purchase it at pivco in Illinois They do mail order. Ed

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              • #8
                thats a great question, I painted my Avanti a few years ago, basecoat/clearcoat using Standox paint. (used on BMWs) I used 54 quarts of base and 5 liters of clear. Doing all the panels seperate, I have very little left over, used an HVLP gun. That being said, before you even think about it! Buy a GOOD respirator, NOT a paper mask. Most paints have isocianites in them, and CAN cause major health issues (lung cancer) Do NOT spray outside or in your garage, you will be sorry! Find a buddy, friend or a shop that will rent you paint booth time. it is worth it! Also buy yourself a "paint suit" READ and understand ALL the instructions on the can, mix properly. In "my" opinion, it's better to have too much, then run short on the paint as you're finishing up!
                Just because lacquer is "idiot proof" it will NOT last as long as an acrylic enamel or better yet a urethane. Lacquer checks and chips very easy. Your money your car, but, using lacquer plan on repainting every 5-7 years to keep it looking sharp! I painted a 34 Chevy 5 window coupe years ago for my brother, he insisted on lacquer, it started getting spider cracks within 5 years. I told him only way I'd do it again, is if he stripped it.
                Painting your own car with very little experience, (in my opinion), is not a good idea, especially without the proper equipment, which includes: paint booth (preferably down draft) a good respirator, and a paint suit is not a good idea. You would be money ahead prepping it yourself, and finding a painter that will shoot the color for you, you supply the materials.

                Jim
                "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                their Memorials!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by r1lark View Post
                  Bob, besides the lower air consumption, what is it about the LVLP gun that allows you to paint better than with a HVLP?
                  LowVolumeLowPressure. Very little overspray. It's hard to screw things up. The fan isn't as large as an HVLP and using the correct nozzle, you can practically hold the gun in one spot without running the paint. It does take longer to do the job, but far less stress
                  64 GT Hawk (K7)
                  1970 Avanti (R3)

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                    I'm going to buy paint, and spray my Sky Hawk myself, but I have a few questions. First off, I've only ever painted one car before, and it was lacquer...color and clear. I used that because it was basically idiot proof. I'd like to know if acrylic urethane base coat is as idiot proof as lacquer...idiot proof with regards to sanding out imperfections, and ease of application, like lacquer. Then how much is needed to cover the body from the belt line chrome down(56 sky Hawk)? Also, quantity needed from the belt line up (two tone). And finally, quantity of clear lacquer for the whole car...enough to cover so it can be color sanded/buffed. I realize that this is a lot of info, but with the cost of paint I don't want to order more than needed. Ball Park figures would be just fine. Thanks, guys...


                    If you're looking for idiot proof paint, use single stage urethane. I did the Power Hawk with some and am very pleased...

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                    • #11
                      I know that Jim is a pro - at least with modern materials. I have had different results with lacquer. In the 1970s, I painted many cars with nitrocellulose lacquer. The ones that I kept track of still looked excellent 40 years later. These cars were hobby cars, not daily drivers.

                      To Jim - Not excessive overspray.
                      Last edited by studegary; 12-02-2016, 11:59 AM. Reason: corrected 4 to 40
                      Gary L.
                      Wappinger, NY

                      SDC member since 1968
                      Studebaker enthusiast much longer

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If its a solid color you can use a single stage and sand and buff but doesn't work good on a metallic. Only way to be able to color sand and buff a metallic is if it is clear coated. You can clear coat a single stage paint if cleared within about 24 hrs of spraying the color. How much paint to paint a car the size of a hawk depends a lot on what color, How you prep the old paint, what you use for a paint gun, Plus a pro will use way less paint then someone with little experience and will you be doing inside of trunk and door jams. I would say if it's a solid color you should be able to do a complete with today's paint on 4-5 qts. Most are thinned 33-100% so you get 5-8 qts spray able. Clear coat will be 4-6 qts. Depending on brand mixed with hardner at anywhere from 100% to 25%. As already said not the safest stuff to spray but gets done in small garages every day just ventilate as best you can and wear what protection you can. My advise is prep the car and find a good backyard shop or person that works at a bodyshop to paint it after hours for you in base clear with plenty of clear coat and sand and buff yourself.

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