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  • Brakes: Grabbing brakes

    I just installed a new power booster on my 1957 President Broadmoor wagon due to an internal fluid leak but now the brakes seem to be full on or full off with no modulation. I disconnected vacum line and plugged so brakes are functioning as manual brakes and they work smoothly and predictabley but when vacumn line is hooked up as i apply pedal gently nothing happens until about half travel then the brakes come on full eat the steering wheel on. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

  • #2
    Welcome Rob, to the SDC and to the SDC Forum, glad to have another Washingtonian here! Are you in Eastern or Western WA?

    You got a Great top of the line '57!
    My Sons and I have: a '57 Broadmoor, a '57 Parkview 2 Door (Commander V8) Wagon, a '57 Pelham (Champion 6) 2 Dr. Wagon, and (3) '57 Sedans.

    OK, we have to do some amount of guessing here, not knowing the Condition of the whole system.
    I assume that you have all New Wheel Cylinders, Master Cylinder, Flex Hoses, Brake Shoes etc. ?

    1) What about the (Short shaft) Pedal and Linkage, are ALL of them for Power Brakes?
    2) Did you replace the 2 Flex Hoses at the Bendix Hydrovac? -(Very Important!)
    3) Are you running the stock Drum Brakes?

    It does sound like the Portion of the Hydrovac that was leaking Fluid, the Hydraulic Part, is STILL bad, it's not smoothly functioning, is there any Tech. help at the Rebuilder or return possibility?
    Last edited by StudeRich; 11-18-2016, 03:36 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      The lines on sedans are metal to power booster not the hose as the c and k bodies

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      • #4
        Wow! Sounds like you folks have a great collection. I'm a West sider also, Carnation. Brakes were working good prior to my fixing them,,,, just had a disappearing fluid problem with no external evidence so figured it must be the booster. Booster, master and front left wheel cylinder are new. All four cylinders were rebuilt 15 yrs ago, front pads are 80% rears are 50%. Car had power brakes originally so not a modified setup, hard line to booster not flex, pedal and linkage original setup. New booster looks identical in size and shape as original, fluid lines, vacumn line and mounts were identical and bolted right up. Supplier was not willing to offer any tech support. Chuck at Studey Parts Online on the other hand was extremely helpful and knowledgeable and seems to think its an issue with the new booster.

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        • #5
          My kids get mad when I ask stupid questions like do you have oil in it so get ready. Are you sure the brakes A adjusted up tight and I would bleed the system again with a pressure bleader.

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          • #6
            Yup, got fluid, bled multiple times, pads adjusted. Drives and stops smoothly with no grabbing or pulling when vacuum line disconnected bypassing booster. Once booster reconnected, poohy, first half of pedal travel nothing and then instant full brake.

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            • #7
              Booster is the problem. These Bendix boosters are not really that great. The one one my 58 packard failed in a cloud of white smoke as the brake fluid was sucked out of it into the engine. My 61 Hawk now has none and has never stopped better. You need to send it back to the rebuilder; it ain't right! (Sounds lie a really neat car!)

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              • #8
                Have you tried lubricating the leather seal with neetsfoot oil? Somewhere on the big drum shape of the hydrovac there is an 1/8" pipe plug. If you pull that plug you can pour in a teaspoon or two of neatsfoot oil. That oil is designed for reviving and weatherproofing hiking boots. It makes the leather vacuum seal in the hydrovac more pliable. That always worked well with the old Jeep I once owned.
                RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                • #9
                  It's a brand new booster, do they still use the leather seal?

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bonrobbi View Post
                    It's a brand new booster, do they still use the leather seal?
                    It's probably dry from sitting on the shelf. Even if the seal has been changed to some sort of synthetic material, and I do not know if it has or not, the neesfoot oil cannot hurt and may do the job for you.
                    RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                    17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                    10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                    10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                    4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                    5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                    56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                    60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                    • #11
                      Hmmm, I'll give it a try. Now I just gotta find Neetsfoot oil. Say, by the way what is a Neet and how come their feet are oily?

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                      • #12
                        Neats are little mammals that used to live in grease pits at the old time gas stations, that's why you don't see many of them anymore. Ask a silly question.......
                        Originally posted by Bonrobbi View Post
                        Hmmm, I'll give it a try. Now I just gotta find Neetsfoot oil. Say, by the way what is a Neet and how come their feet are oily?
                        Last edited by thunderations; 11-20-2016, 04:37 PM.
                        sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                        1950 Champion Convertible
                        1950 Champion 4Dr
                        1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                        1957 Thunderbird

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                        • #13
                          Does car have a hill holder? I had same problem with my 63 R2 Hawk, nearly pulled my hair out. Bypassed the hill holder, problem solved.

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                          • #14
                            After all that still sounds like a wonky booster.had same problem on 64 decades ago, turned out rebuilder used wrong lube on a valve part so it was full on or off and no in between(NAPA counter person, very trust worthy). they switched rebuilder's after that. Luck Doofus

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                            • #15
                              No hill holder. I agree, sounds like a wonky booster. Now I just gotta talk them into exchanging it and starting the process over. Anyone have input on buying new or rebuilt? Thought I was avoiding chances of exactly what I ended up with by buying new, maybe I should try rebuilt this time. They also offer a core refund if buying rebuilt. Thanks

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