Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Pesky Rear Main Seal

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: Pesky Rear Main Seal

    With only about four years and 35,000 miles since rebuild, the rear main seal on the 62GT is leaking; one drop every 5-6 seconds, at 2000 RPM. So it is time to replace it.

    Pretty sure this is a recently produced seal, that came with an engine gasket kit from one of our vendors. I have a recent FelPro seal (BS 10053-1) on hand, but have heard the original, "brunner" seals hold up better. But imagine, even of one could be located, the rubber would not be pliable enough to trust it.

    Does anyone have a better idea, other than the recent Felpro?

  • #2
    I have quite a few OEM, NOS BRUMMER Main Seals, but have not noticed a difference in the FelPro Reproductions.
    I too have been a little reluctant to use the Old ones, some have cracks in the rubber on the thinner edge but otherwise very good and soft.

    Sealing the ends together with Permatex RTV High Temp. Silicone Black "Form-a-Gasket" goes a long way to prevent leaks, also on the small Main Bearing Cap "side corks".

    Since you probably DID that, I don't know any better way.

    Back in the 1970's I cut the "Ears" off of one and rotated the Seals at 11:00 and 5:00 instead of 9:00 and 3:00 and that 232 Engine has never leaked since, was THAT the reason, I do not know.

    I STILL maintain that MOST of the Oil Pan rear leaks, are from that pesky Rear Pan Arch Cork that MUST be inserted tightly and carefully into the Rear Main Cap.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 10-24-2016, 09:47 PM.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      I believe Stude Rich is right on the money. re clock the seal part line and use sealer on ends, I put a dab of sealer against main cap to block inner joint and cork must be worked into main cap groove. the narrow side goes into the groove and usually you will have some extra. don't trim it work it into that groove. it's a PITA but wont leak when done properly. Luck Doofus

      Comment


      • #4
        Joe check with Victor gaskets I know they make a off set seal on some engines. It moves the seal just enough so it runs in a different spot on the crank. Not sure if they make one for a studebaker.

        Comment


        • #5
          when I had 63r3623 delivered I new it had a rear seal leak as it was disclosed to me. When I tore the engine apart to fix it. I found it installed backwards. it leaked really bad.
          1 Family owned 63 Studebaker Avanti 63r-1705 White with Orange interior , R2 4 speed.
          Just purchased 63r-3623 R2 was a auto now dressed to a R3 with a4speed.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
            I have quite a few OEM, NOS BRUMMER Main Seals, but have not noticed a difference in the FelPro Reproductions.
            I too have been a little reluctant to use the Old ones, some have cracks in the rubber on the thinner edge but otherwise very good and soft.

            Sealing the ends together with Permatex RTV High Temp. Silicone Black "Form-a-Gasket" goes a long way to prevent leaks, also on the small Main Bearing Cap "side corks".

            Since you probably DID that, I don't know any better way.

            Back in the 1970's I cut the "Ears" off of one and rotated the Seals at 11:00 and 5:00 instead of 9:00 and 3:00 and that 232 Engine has never leaked since, was THAT the reason, I do not know.

            I STILL maintain that MOST of the Oil Pan rear leaks, are from that pesky Rear Pan Arch Cork that MUST be inserted tightly and carefully into the Rear Main Cap.

            1. I recently bought a recent "Felpro" made in, (where else), China! The tabs were on both halves and were grossly larger than were the originals. I have low confidence with these...

            2. Agree completely with the rear oil pan gaskets as being the main culprit. I still have not tore down my pan from the Power Hawk with regard to a dripping leak from the lower RHS. But in the past have never come to find that an oil leak was the fault of the rear seal but rather the gasket complex at the rear of the pan.

            I noticed that the old stock seals seem to be no longer available but I have one left "somewhere."

            Comment


            • #7
              I switched to the earlier Brunner seal and it seals as it should. I posted earlier regarding a mis-machined rear main cap that resulted in an offset at the seal part line. The Brunners have a wider seal land and can accommodate that offset. Also regarding pan seals, add the reinforcing strips to the pan sides to eliminate pan sag that occurs as the metal deforms around the side fasteners. This definitely relaxes the end seals contributing to leaks. An earlier post on pan leaks covered that.

              Comment

              Working...
              X