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  • #31
    Kato order the new one those things are nearly impossible to get clean inside!!! BTDT Doofus

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Studebakercenteroforegon View Post
      Anyone who has worked on Studebaker V-8 engines over the years probably has a couple of lifter covers laying around his shop. But, the quick and easy way would be to get a new one from Studebaker International for $30.00. Part number is 527138. S. I. Catalog says this is for '51 - '64 which is not correct. Should be '51 - '63. The '63 models were the first with PCV systems (for all 50 states - California was '61 - '62) but for the first year used a hose adapter that fit the same opening as the road draft tube. Then 1964 models only had the pipe thread fitting instead.
      Originally posted by doofus View Post
      Kato order the new one those things are nearly impossible to get clean inside!!! BTDT Doofus
      I wasn't aware new ones were available. I will definitely go that way.. thanks!

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      • #33
        Originally posted by 70Avanti2 View Post
        Check for excessive blow by by removing the oil filler cap. Placing your hand on and over the tube. Reving the engine. You should feel very little pressure on your hand.
        OK thanks.. I will do that.

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        • #34
          Baffles in the cover and / inclusion of coarse material such like metal pot_scrubbers into that space cause oil vapours to coalesce into droplets which can then fall down into the valley and back into the sump. The more gaseous fraction can exit via the draft tube without taking so much oil with it. Employing a PCV systen might be cleaner looking but without adequate baffling, the Oil will still go on being consumed.
          Steve

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          • #35
            Originally posted by Steve Winzar View Post
            Baffles in the cover and / inclusion of coarse material such like metal pot_scrubbers into that space cause oil vapours to coalesce into droplets which can then fall down into the valley and back into the sump. The more gaseous fraction can exit via the draft tube without taking so much oil with it. Employing a PCV systen might be cleaner looking but without adequate baffling, the Oil will still go on being consumed.
            Steve
            My main concern is reducing the oil loss so hopefully a new valley cover with the baffles will do it!

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            • #36
              Keep us informed...

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              • #37
                This is right at the transition time from draft tube to PCV. I have 3 -259s and they are all configured differently. One has the double vented valve covers with a draft tube and the two others have PVC systems and they are both different. One has dual breather caps with one receiving air through the carburetor air filter. The PCV system on one engine is bolted into the draft tube hole and the other is welded to the valley cover. They both return to the base of the carburetor to consume any excess vapour. It would however be very easy to mix and match in these years and have a bastardized system. It is very important that your engine is configured as designed. The double vented valve cover system is most likely consistent with a draft tube. Some models have the crankcase breather and oil fill directly into the front of the valley cover, this system may not be consistent with a draft tube. There are probably about 6-8 possible breather combinations for the same engine. Make sure your engine is configured as designed.

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                • #38
                  Simply try using 10W30 instead of 20W50. The heavier oil may be reducing the drain-down speed and flooding over into the lifter valley, particularly during periods where the engine is not up to full running temperature. I use 10W30 Pennzoil and consume less than a quart in 2500 miles at 46000 miles. However, this is a '64 vintage motor with PCV and not draft tube.

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                  • #39
                    Originally posted by altair View Post
                    This is right at the transition time from draft tube to PCV. I have 3 -259s and they are all configured differently. One has the double vented valve covers with a draft tube and the two others have PVC systems and they are both different. One has dual breather caps with one receiving air through the carburetor air filter. The PCV system on one engine is bolted into the draft tube hole and the other is welded to the valley cover. They both return to the base of the carburetor to consume any excess vapour. It would however be very easy to mix and match in these years and have a bastardized system. It is very important that your engine is configured as designed. The double vented valve cover system is most likely consistent with a draft tube. Some models have the crankcase breather and oil fill directly into the front of the valley cover, this system may not be consistent with a draft tube. There are probably about 6-8 possible breather combinations for the same engine. Make sure your engine is configured as designed.
                    This is the original engine so is there a way with the engine serial # to determine it's original set up? I bought the car with the finned valley and rocker covers and the rocker covers are not vented. I would assume the previous owner would have bought the finned covers that matched what was on the car originally but who knows!

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                      Keep us informed...
                      Sure will, trouble is I am in the north and the car will be going into hibernation soon. Will probably be spring before I get to it but I will post an update then so if anyone else runs into this they will have some idea.

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by WCP View Post
                        Simply try using 10W30 instead of 20W50. The heavier oil may be reducing the drain-down speed and flooding over into the lifter valley, particularly during periods where the engine is not up to full running temperature. I use 10W30 Pennzoil and consume less than a quart in 2500 miles at 46000 miles. However, this is a '64 vintage motor with PCV and not draft tube.
                        Now that is an interesting thought! I just put fresh 20W50 in but if the valley cover change doesn't do it I will try that next year. The engine has been running on Brad Penn 20W50 since the rebuild so I didn't want to alter that as it has relatively low mileage since it was rebuilt. That's what puzzled me about the massive leak as all of the gaskets are recent and I would assume of more modern material. When I had it up on the hoist I couldn't find anything more than light seepage from anywhere on the engine but there is a trail of oil streaking back under the car from the draft tube. I sure hope a change of valley covers is all that's needed but you may be on to another possibility here.. thanks

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                        • #42
                          In warmer climates like Calif./Texas/Arizona the 20W-50 is fine, but in Ontario I would use 10W-30, especially in Winter on a New Engine.

                          However I do not think it will affect your Oil buildup/leakage one bit.

                          Another thing, all 1963-'64 Full Flow Engines as your Late '62 is, used the "Lower" Crankcase PCV Valve System and I find it helpful to remove Moisture and pollutants from the crankcase, it is especially helpful in High Humidity Northern hemisphere areas such as yours.

                          Bearing eating Acid is formed in Oil as a result of having no forced Crankcase Ventilation System.
                          Last edited by StudeRich; 10-22-2016, 01:00 PM.
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                            In warmer climates like Calif./Texas/Arizona the 20W-50 is fine, but in Ontario I would use 10W-30, especially in Winter on a New Engine.

                            However I do not think it will affect your Oil buildup/leakage one bit.

                            Another thing, all 1963-'64 Full Flow Engines as your Late '62 is, used the "Lower" Crankcase PCV Valve System and I find it helpful to remove Moisture and pollutants from the crankcase, it is especially helpful in High Humidity Northern hemisphere areas such as yours.

                            Bearing eating Acid is formed in Oil as a result of having no forced Crankcase Ventilation System.
                            Next oil change will be 10W30. That would be normal in these parts as you say. Not sure why they were using 20W50 but I wanted to keep it the same for a few thousand miles but I've put on over 2000 so I should be good to switch next year.

                            So this would have had vented rocker covers and a PCV? Why on earth the previous owner did away with that and put a draft tube on it is a puzzler! The plot thickens!

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                            • #44
                              Here is what a '63 looks like:

                              Click image for larger version

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                              The Picture number 0102-22 is the Adapter to the Lifter Cover with a 3/8" Elbow welded on the side, that fits a 3/8" I.D. short PCV Hose to the PCV Valve, 2 more short Hoses and an 3/8" Elbow complete it to the base of the Carb.

                              0102-21 is the PCV Valve.
                              Last edited by StudeRich; 10-22-2016, 11:44 PM.
                              StudeRich
                              Second Generation Stude Driver,
                              Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                              • #45
                                Late model '62 V8 engines did not have the vented valve covers and did have the draft tube even though they did have the full-flow filters. They did have the vent cap in front of the valley cover where the earlier series had the inverted filter. If someone has removed the forward vent assembly and replaced it with a block-off plate, then that could be the source of your problem.

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