‘61 Lark project

[r1lark]

Nice work Matt!!

[mbstude]

Finished up the air duct this morning. I replaced the crumbly foam seals on the “valve” with rubber gasket material. Should be good to go.

[Buzzard]

I'm sure I am late on this notation, but have you considered painting the internal valley with glyptal as it aids the oil return to the pan?
Bill

[mbstude]

Made a little more headway this weekend.

Distributor is NOS. I rebuilt the starter, generator, and fuel pump. Daytona Parts Co did the carburetor.

Next I need to install the starter, exhaust pipes, and clutch/shifter linkages.. And then see if it’ll start and run.

[r1lark]

Matt, where did you source the aluminum radiator from (company and part number)?

Car is looking great, won't be long before Bandit can go cruising!

[mbstude]

Matt, where did you source the aluminum radiator from (company and part number)?

Car is looking great, won't be long before Bandit can go cruising!

CGJ in Alabama. I’ve bought a half dozen Stude radiators from them, they’ve all fit perfect right out of the box. I think this one is item number “1062”.

https://cgj.com/?s=Studebaker

[r1lark]

Thanks Matt for the info on the radiator. I've been looking at radiators for my '64 Daytona, and have pretty much settled on CGJ. Good to know you have had good luck with them.

[mbstude]

The Lark lives! Here’s a short video after setting the timing and letting it get up to operating temp.

[mw2013]

should get real good gas mileage

[mbstude]

Pulled apart the right side of the front suspension today and got started on control arm bushing replacement.

[mbstude]

Latest update: I have the front suspension back together and the front brakes are rebuilt.

This is a low mileage car that has been maintained pretty well since new, so nothing on the front end was worn out. I installed Delrin inner control arm bushings, minor king pin kit, new springs, new shocks, and not much else. The outer pin and bushings don’t have any discernible wear so I left them alone.

I replaced everything on the front brake system. Relined shoes, a pair of our repro 11” finned drums, etc.



The goal with this car is to make it really fun to drive without going overboard. Since I’m already planning on installing a sliding sunroof, it’s no big deal to cut a hole in the floor too.

A while ago I picked up an NOS Ansen 3 speed shifter on eBay. I dug it out and mocked it up on a T86 Overdrive. Since Ansen was the supplier of the Stude 3 and 4 speed floor shifters, this means that Stude parts will interchange. The chrome handle is an NOS piece for a ‘62 Lark Taxi.



I compared the shifter’s location to that of a T-10 4 speed and it’s almost in the same spot, just an inch or so off. Which means I can use an original fiberglass 4 speed shifter cover with a slight relocation of the boot retainer.. Once it’s all done, the car will look like it left the factory with a floor shift.

While figuring out the shifter stuff, I started ripping out the crumbly rubber floor mat. Made for a good reminder of why it’s worthwhile to buy an old car from a dry climate.

[6hk71400]

Latest update: I have the front suspension back together and the front brakes are rebuilt.

This is a low mileage car that has been maintained pretty well since new, so nothing on the front end was worn out. I installed Delrin inner control arm bushings, minor king pin kit, new springs, new shocks, and not much else. The outer pin and bushings don’t have any discernible wear so I left them alone.

I replaced everything on the front brake system. Relined shoes, a pair of our repro 11” finned drums, etc.



The goal with this car is to make it really fun to drive without going overboard. Since I’m already planning on installing a sliding sunroof, it’s no big deal to cut a hole in the floor too.

A while ago I picked up an NOS Ansen 3 speed shifter on eBay. I dug it out and mocked it up on a T86 Overdrive. Since Ansen was the supplier of the Stude 3 and 4 speed floor shifters, this means that Stude parts will interchange. The chrome handle is an NOS piece for a ‘62 Lark Taxi.



I compared the shifter’s location to that of a T-10 4 speed and it’s almost in the same spot, just an inch or so off. Which means I can use an original fiberglass 4 speed shifter cover with a slight relocation of the boot retainer.. Once it’s all done, the car will look like it left the factory with a floor shift.

While figuring out the shifter stuff, I started ripping out the crumbly rubber floor mat. Made for a good reminder of why it’s worthwhile to buy an old car from a dry climate.

Matt,

I don't recall you mentioning the rear axle ratio. Since you do like spirited highway driving, are you going to have to change the rear end? One of our members owned a factory equipped 4 speed 62 Regal 4 door with a factory 4 speed at one time. It had bucket seats but no console.

Bob Miles
Sleeper Q ship in the works

[6hk71400]

Opps! Never mind. I guess you are keeping the 3/od. I read in this post 4 speed but wrongly thought you were going to a T-10.

Bob Miles
Never read faster than your mind can comprehend

[mbstude]

Installing a T-10 did cross my mind, just because a green four door Lark with a 4 speed would be ridiculous.. But I much prefer the drivability of an OD transmission.

[Milaca]

Yes, a T-10 with overdrive would be a major improvement over a standard T-10 for highway drivability.

[nels]

Enjoying the read, Matt. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I’m wondering if you will have it finished and at the South Bend swap meet?

[mbstude]

Enjoying the read, Matt. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I’m wondering if you will have it finished and at the South Bend swap meet?

Thanks Nels. I’ll be vending at the South Bend meet, so the cars will probably stay home.