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1955 Studebaker Commander 4dr Ultra Vista Regal

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  • #46
    Finished new cylinders and shoes for front.
    Need bearings cleaned and repacked.

    Click image for larger version

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    • #47
      Hubs/bearings cleaned, bearings/hubs repacked, new felt seals installed, drums mounted.

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      Last edited by Craig; 05-11-2022, 03:59 PM.

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      • #48
        So I cleaned and reinstalled the hill holder. Sprayed silver paint on it.
        From the looks of my photo i forgot a lock washer on rear bolt.

        Click image for larger version

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        • #49

          Worked today on reassembling the rear axle, brakes, parking brake, axle shims, felt seals, etc.
          Starting with left rear with axle bearing outer race tapped in level with housing.



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          Got this far and had to check parts and shop manual.

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          parking brake link and rattle spring noted, work continued.

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          Should the felt seal be pre lubed? with what?

          Moving to the right side, whacked the axles to the left with a dead blow hammer to seat the left bearing outer race against the brake back plate.
          With a stack of new shims totaling 0.132" (same as old shim stack), The right side was assembled using the reinforcing plate to draw the shim stack tight. More whacks both sides and using my Harbor Freight magnetic base and dial indicator checked end play.

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          Indicated 0.004" end play, which seems reasonable and in spec.

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          Drums on, need bleed.

          Last edited by Craig; 05-14-2022, 04:29 PM.

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          • #50
            Repaired the 3 speed column shift linkage issue by replacing the lever, rubber bushing, 3/16" roll pin, lever support collar, and shift tube with new pieces.

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            As a result I had to pull the turn indicator section and all wires out of the column.
            What is a good procedure for pulling the wires back thru?

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            • #51
              simply taped the OEM cotton wire ends in a gradually increased fashion with single wrap of masking tape at varied locations and actually shoved the wire bundle down the channel with a little seesaw inout action to overcome resistance and they came out as needed!! then pulling to finish.
              A little grease or lubricant would have made this a no brainer, but my dry effort worked for me.
              Plugged all 6 wires into six gang connector, hooked up battery, all seems fine.

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              Wheel back on, nice to have new shift linkage to select all gears.
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              Small brass hammer was all that was needed to drive 3/16" roll pin into shifter lever.
              Last edited by Craig; 05-16-2022, 04:18 PM.

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              • #52
                The 3" transmission tunnel port cover has never been removed.
                what would be the value of this access?

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                Sorry, looks like auto trans fill check
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                Last edited by Craig; 05-16-2022, 08:25 AM.

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                • #53
                  Brakes bled, time for wheel and hubcap trial, just one side tho, not enough valve stem extensions for all 4.
                  Still up on jack stands, so this a "flying thru the air" stance.


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                  Spent some time working on back up lights, got a new set from Stephen Allen, complete but no instructions.
                  Got a template from Museum, drilled the six required holes for two lights.

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                  Came out looking good, but I still need to wire and add switch on steering column base linked to reverse lever.
                  Looks like my lower panel is slightly bent.
                  Last edited by Craig; 05-17-2022, 05:14 PM.

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                  • #54
                    Ran the back-up light wire from the trunk lid, out at the left hinge, down inside the left trunk fender channel, out the rear trunk corner, back forward along/thru frame rail and ending at steering column base.

                    Got out my back-up switch and find I do not have the screws to mount.
                    Book says 1501x21
                    instructions say 650-#10-4G


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                    Since the wire was there , I jumped the wire to the battery to check lights function.
                    Last edited by Craig; 05-19-2022, 12:28 PM.

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                    • #55
                      Back up lights will be a nice addition. Progress on projects is always a good thing. Congrats.
                      Tom Senecal Not enough money or years to build all of the Studebakers that I think I can.

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                      • #56
                        Got all wheels and hubcaps mounted. Now trying to clean up grille area.

                        Should the grille logo "S" should be Shasta white on the rear 2/3's to match the grille wing "V" section?

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                        tail lights and license light now working, along with brake lights after replacing hyd brake switch.

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                        working on grille opening silver paint.



                        Last edited by Craig; 05-24-2022, 08:10 AM.

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                        • #57
                          Originally posted by Craig View Post
                          Ran the back-up light wire from the trunk lid, out at the left hinge, down inside the left trunk fender channel, out the rear trunk corner, back forward along/thru frame rail and ending at steering column base.

                          Got out my back-up switch and find I do not have the screws to mount.
                          Book says 1501x21
                          instructions say 650-#10-4G


                          Since the wire was there , I jumped the wire to the battery to check lights function.
                          The original back up lights only worked when the headlights were on. Personally, I would power them from the ignition switch, or the accessory post on that switch. They will work any time you put the car in reverse - even in the daytime. Very handy and much safer, as every other driver will know when you intend to back up.

                          That is a really beautiful original car. I am very happy that you are refurbishing it rather that molesting/modifying/buggering it. Please keep up the good work.
                          Last edited by RadioRoy; 05-29-2022, 01:04 PM.
                          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.


                          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon

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                          • #58
                            Grille opening was showing paint worn and minor pitting .
                            Removed the wing and S logo.
                            Sanded the opening with 320 grit until it felt smooth.
                            Applied one coat of Eastwood silver and the pitting showed thru.
                            Bought and applied three very light "spit" coats of Rustoleum filler/primer (Adv Auto)to the pitted areas.
                            Block sanded the Rustoleum primer with 600 grit.
                            Applied two coats of Eastwood Cad silver.
                            I don't know what the long term dieback will look, but it looks good now.


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                            Also refreshed the "S" logo rear Shasta White paint as it was missing.
                            This is not a show car, simply "street clean" driver.

                            All four wheels and covers installed. Missing hood latch and engine bay fasteners.

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                            Still in "Roadkill jump" pose.
                            Last edited by Craig; 05-25-2022, 05:44 AM.

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                            • #59
                              Click image for larger version  Name:	20220526_GasTankOut1.jpg Views:	0 Size:	94.9 KB ID:	1945736
                              Gas tank out today, My number one concern for engine stop on way home. Lots of solids in fuel filter at suction side of fuel pump. Siphoning out 5 gallons prior to tank drop produced minimal solids, Still have a gallon or so in the dropped tank, haven't poured out yet.

                              Steel gas line fitting 9/16" would not unscrew without twisting the line off. Used a tubing cutter to cut line.

                              Prior to gas tank removal, to siphon 6 gallons out of the tank I used a Walmart pump purchased to transfer oil from 5 gal to smaller container. Simply heated up the tightly coiled plastic clear suction tubing in the sun until it was flexible and straight, insert down the Studebaker fill pipe, pump a couple of times to establish bubble free flow and then let it siphon flow out the outlet hose into empty water gallon jugs. The pump was left hanging on the suction tube along side the rear fender as it flowed the 6 gallons.
                              It would have been faster to pump, but not in a rush.

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                              There were 2 gallons left in tank, but much nicer than 8 gallons.
                              Last edited by Craig; 05-27-2022, 03:07 PM.

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                              • #60
                                Engine Bay is getting cleaned up as time permits.

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                                Have not pulled the valve covers yet, but sometime soon.
                                Found an old radiator wire-on tag in glove box and installed.

                                Spraymax 2k black on forward sheetmetal, regulator cover and battery frame.
                                Eastwood silver cad on silver items/hardware.
                                Last edited by Craig; 05-29-2022, 07:24 AM.

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