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1954 Commander convertible - First full "Soup to Nuts" restoration

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  • #46
    Originally posted by studegary View Post

    No, I can not see them. You can probably see them because they reside on your computer.
    sure enough, I took out the SD card and the pictures went with it. Ill fix it soon. Ive been in the garage again and I have more things to share

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    pics fixed
    Last edited by what huh; 10-03-2020, 04:36 AM.
    Charles

    1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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    • #47
      Did a quick mockup to see how high or low in the frame that I want to go. I also put the A-arms back on cause I forgot to take the wheel center line measurement before I took them off. I knew that the C4 frame mounts (where it bolts on the bottom) wouldn't be anywhere close to level with the stude frame but also wants to see where they ended up at to see if they could be manipulated. They were so far off that I decided to cut them off and bend up my own plate for the bottom section of the frame but we will get to that shortly.

      With the subframe sitting where you see it in the first picture it sitting at 15 degrees (I changed from 14 like previously stated) and the underside frame mounts are making contact with the frame. I also put a wheel on during this step and decided to lower the subframe into the studebaker frame by 1". This isn't scientific at all but with that brings the c4 upper a-arm to closer to where the studebaker a-arm mounts use to be. It is possible to lower a car to much, right?




      While your reading the following I am doing driver side and passenger side at the same time. Measuring the whole time to insure heat doesn't move things around.

      When the frame was sitting at the height I had chosen in the frame and at 15 degrees pointing up on the a-arms, I scribed a line that transferred the top of the studebaker frame to the c4 subframe. Then I cut a piece of 11g steel to start locking in the location. The plate was positioned on to the subframe at 90 degrees and tacked on the back to allow me to sit the subframe on top of the studebaker frame and slide it around, side to side and front to back to get its location correct. Studebaker manual says wheel center line is 20" from the back of the front of the frame.


      I transfer wheel center line to the plate that is tacked to the subframe. Shuffled the subframe around until front to back and side to side was spot on and put the next tacks into place


      Attached Files
      Last edited by what huh; 10-03-2020, 05:21 PM.
      Charles

      1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

      Comment


      • #48
        Originally posted by Topper2011 View Post
        Post 39 is the one missing pictures.
        And now post #47 as well.

        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10,
        '51 Commander Starlight,
        '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
        '56 Sky Hawk

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        • #49
          Next I sent the angle of the subframe and placed another tack to lock things in place. Measure, measure, measure and everything is looking good. Now I start thinking about boxing it on to the Studebaker frame. The reason why I choose the width of my plate was so that it lined up with the frame which will depicted in a coming picture.

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          Then plated the underside. I started by welding the plate to the subframe at the same location of the old frame mounts that I cut off and use a C-clamp to draw up the plate to the frame to be tacked in place. Now that I have bottom and top locked in I felt it safe to cut off the coil spring pockets. You will also see a soapstone line that shows why I choose the width of plate that I did.

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          The rest is just cutting metal and boxing the frame after the coil pockets are cut off. I made a time lapse and posted it to youtube. Here is a link

          https://youtu.be/BXOMV0NfBBs

          Both sides are boxed in and tacked up good. Next I will assembly the suspension and fabricate the upper mount for the coilover.

          Short term goal is to get everything tacked into place including the steering rack so that I can position the engine. Then test fit the body on the chassis to check fitment.
          Last edited by what huh; 10-03-2020, 05:51 PM.
          Charles

          1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

          Comment


          • #50
            Awesome progress! Don't you wish work could actually progress as fast as time lapse?? cheers, junior
            sigpic
            1954 C5 Hamilton car.

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            • #51
              Originally posted by junior View Post
              Awesome progress! Don't you wish work could actually progress as fast as time lapse?? cheers, junior
              most defintely! real time for that video was 44 minutes.
              Charles

              1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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              • #52
                Subscribed! Enjoying the heck out of this build. Bob

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                • #53
                  Mock up..... 2x4s holding arms at a spot to work with

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                  Attached Files
                  Charles

                  1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    Fired up CAD to do the next project. Coilover mounts

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                    Im wondering how much stress will be on the inside of the arch from the coilover pushing up. Thinking ill extend that top section out towards the wheel more. I have 10g plate but maybe ill build this out of 3/16 for peace of mind.

                    Thats it for today. See you guys later
                    Charles

                    1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      I’ll be wrapping up the front in the next 2-3 Saturday’s. That has got me thinking about the rear. Not sure which direction to go with it. I thought it was a TT and I was going to put flanged axles in it and call it good but it is just a standard Dana 44. Has me thinking of other options and now my brain is all in a mess
                      Charles

                      1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        working on the front coilovers a bit this evening to find out that no matter where I position the coilovers I cannot clear the A-arms to pull the hardware in and out. Called QA1 to see if I could "unthread" the upper eyelet 2 rotation so give me some space and they told me that they would rather change my eyelet for a 1" longer one so that I can keep full thread engagement. Part # 9036-202. Ordered and waiting to show up

                        Also, I have decided to go full C4 suspension. I am going to get the rear suspension from a C4 as soon as I find one with 3.07 gearing. There is one on ebay currently but its 2.56. I have time to hold out, plenty of other stuff to do

                        Pictures of todays mistake. I got ahead of myself and didnt account for bolt removal prior welding the upper coilover mount in solid. Cut off and try again on friday when the new parts get here.


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                        designed these and will use with the new mount extensions. Looking forward to Saturday

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                        Attached Files
                        Charles

                        1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          been absent from the forums past few weeks, wifes car hit me with a job. Needed new clutch and timing belt was due so why not put new brakes on it.

                          Update on the '54 (really need to name her) that starts by giving an update on the Hawk. I took a break cause I got jonesing to hear an engine run and the Hawk was closest to making that possible and then my mind started rolling and came to the thought, "I should put the hawk back together so I have a stude to drive." All of that then brought me back to what I said on my first post. Swap the hawks frame to the convertible body and get a jump start on getting the convertible done. Then I can tinker with the hawk on all the indepth projects that I have in my head. Means more to me to have the convertible Studebaker powered, I really dont know why but when I heard that exhaust note I knew exactly what I needed to do.

                          Once my wifes car is done Im going to swap bodys and chassis and do what I first planned. If you havent noticed I change my mind a lot
                          Charles

                          1961 Lark Regal VIII 259/auto -- Lucy

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