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My 64 Commander.

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  • RyleeH
    replied
    No tensioner. Had to muscle it in place. Belt sits tight, I'm not worried about that. I can add one if I have issues but I'm confident this will be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • studegary
    replied
    Originally posted by Jerry Forrester View Post
    Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?
    Good point. I do not see one unless it is obscured by the lower hose.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jerry Forrester
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post
    Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

    I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

    After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

    Great customer service from both companies.

    I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

    Here's my promised one pic per reply.
    Is there a tensioner for the WP/CS belt?

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Well made some more progress the last few days after 10-11hr work days. Sick today but I'll trick through tonight and see if I get it running.

    I was having issues with belt alignment with Moroso P#63825 and after emailing them directly it dawned on me I don't need different pulleys but just to space their bracket forward 5/16" and I hit the front pulley of my water pump. Then I'll get a double groove swp crank pulley to get two belts between water pump and crank so make it look better. Using belts from Partsource #15305 and #15346. Also lesson learned to measure lengths needed with another v-groove belt for more accurate length, then getting that length plus next two sizes up. I first measured with wire and was short 3" each belt. Measured with belt I got alternator first try and third try for crank/water pump.

    After I got the knob on my new Flex-a-lite rad fan combo for electronic thermostat control I realized I had a bad controller. I emailed them, sent pics of install and my invoice. As of yesterday i have a new controller on the way without me having to send anything back. Tech guy was pleasantly surprised when I told him I did not install P#51168 into what he thought would be a CJ Jeep.

    Great customer service from both companies.

    I'm fairly beginner mechanic in my own eyes so things are taking longer than I want but later tonight I plan to try timing the 350 and calling some friends to get my good back in place.

    Here's my promised one pic per reply.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Studerich, haha I had a similar reaction when I got the engine out and had a good look. It WAS a camaro mount on a steel plate and matching on block but driver side block WAS I still have no clue what. NOW I have stude mounts on frame and 65 chevelle mounts attached to block. It's been taken care of, I would not put it back together how it was. Just like most of how the car WAS before I started on it.

    Jerry, good to know they can be found in larger diameter. But I made a post on Facebook a while ago asking for cars exactly like mine with blockhuggers. I even received pictures from a couple people showing Sanderson blockhugger headers, think cc3 od something like that for part number. I'll have to look back to see but that's something for winter to take care of.

    This is where I am now, just grabbed water pump pulley and shims today. That and a bit of wiring and I might start it up tonight.

    Before anyone comments about fuel line, left it long until pulleys and belt done then trim it down.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jerry Forrester
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post
    I see that now he didnt mean bolt to manifold, guess I was a bit confused but I don't like wiring is the other reason I want to stay passenger side.

    I have car manifolds from the parts car I had but pipes need to be changed regardless because of the angle on driver side and kinks on both sides. Did these straight down manifolds ever come on a 350? It has smaller diameter than the bent manifold. I thought that style of blockhugger would let the engine breathe better than these little manifolds.
    You can get the rams horn manifolds with a 2 1/2" outlet. But I don't know if you have room for that due to the pitman arm.
    https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Corve...air,58966.html

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    I don't know WHAT that is you have for a Right Side Engine Mount BRACKET, but it should look like the Left side!

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    I see that now he didnt mean bolt to manifold, guess I was a bit confused but I don't like wiring is the other reason I want to stay passenger side.

    I have car manifolds from the parts car I had but pipes need to be changed regardless because of the angle on driver side and kinks on both sides. Did these straight down manifolds ever come on a 350? It has smaller diameter than the bent manifold. I thought that style of blockhugger would let the engine breathe better than these little manifolds.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jerry Forrester
    replied
    Originally posted by RyleeH View Post
    I gave the style that mounted to my manifold a thought for a little bit but I have issue with the current driver manifold and exhaust. It looks like when the 350 was swapped in to what was not originally chevy, the wrong driver manifold was used. You can see in this pic that it is bent backwards instead of going straight down like the passenger side. This causes my steering arm to hit it at full right turn.

    So I have the plan to eventually buy headers. From what I hear cc3 Sanderson headers should fit my car, then re-do the exhaust.
    Go back and read post #9. He's talking about an alternator bracket that bolts to the front of the head, It doesn't have anything to do with the exhaust manifold.

    BTW, that driver's side swept back manifold is a truck manifold. You need a car manifold, they go straight down.

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    I gave the style that mounted to my manifold a thought for a little bit but I have issue with the current driver manifold and exhaust. It looks like when the 350 was swapped in to what was not originally chevy, the wrong driver manifold was used. You can see in this pic that it is bent backwards instead of going straight down like the passenger side. This causes my steering arm to hit it at full right turn.

    So I have the plan to eventually buy headers. From what I hear cc3 Sanderson headers should fit my car, then re-do the exhaust.

    Leave a comment:


  • junior
    replied
    if you want to move the alt. to the driver side of the engine, find a complete set-up off a 70-72 chev 1/2 with sbc engine and no power steering or brakes. single groove pulley top and bottom, cast iron lower alt. bracket, extra-thick top alt. bracket... both brackets bolt to a factory head (which you have) inexpensive, clean, simple and robust system that works with factory rams horn manifolds. you're from sask, so should be lots of old c-10's and gmc 1500's in your province for parts picking. cheers, junior
    Attached Files
    Last edited by junior; 07-07-2018, 01:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Caso wannabe
    replied
    Door tag. Mine is a South Bend car.I wasn't even thinking about yours being a Canadian built car(Duh)It's been a long day. I'm going to bed before I say anything even dumber. Lol.
    Dave

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Are you looking at the tag in the driver door?

    OR
    The tag under the hood on the passenger side?

    Leave a comment:


  • Caso wannabe
    replied
    Hi, nice car.I have a 64 commander as well. What is your vin#? Mine is 64S-4215. They didn't make many of them and I was curious how far apart they are. Mine has a 259 swapped in. I have a ways to go before it's drivable,but I am slowly making progress.
    Dave
    .

    Leave a comment:


  • RyleeH
    replied
    Jerry, I was concerned at first the bracket I just ordered wouldn't work either. The shop owner was sure it will for my application. Ya the crank pulley I have is for a lwp but the middle groove sits perfectly with middle groove of my water pump pulley which I believe is where my alternator should line up to as well. I'll order a shorter crank pulley later to clear more space.
    I'll see Tuesday night how it all lines up and go from there.

    Went to local drag strip this spring to see what the car could do, 15.744@91.47mph was my best. Pic of my best three slips of the day in my album.


    Going to try remember to upload a picture each time I comment here.

    Leave a comment:

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