50 Commander

[DTHolder]

My first Stude.
I found this on Craigslist with the idea that I wanted a 50's car, within 200 miles, and under a certain amount. Damn if this was just right.

1950 Studebaker Commander
327 small block with Turbo 350 automatic
Paint = 2015 Mitsubishi Mirage "Plasma Purple" (which is growing on me)



The previous owner salvaged this and added the engine/transmission.



My first steps are:
1. replace U-joints (drive shaft rebuild kit on the way)
2. Convert the lever type front shocks to air shocks (ala 50 Champion style)
3. Correct drivers side exhaust for more clearance from steering reach arm.

I have always loved the 50/51 styling!

[junior]

Granted the colour may not be to most folks liking, I'm sure it is striking in real life. I'm digging the fact that you're stoked with your ride, and I love the old school 327 being painted in that oh-so-beautiful chubby orange. Drive the wheels off of it, and enjoy! Regarding that remote oil filter install, I'm sure that is there to give more reach rod/exhaust clearance, but isn't it messy pulling the filter off to change it? Just wondering. cheers, junior

[DTHolder]

The remote oil filter has already need removed and the filter is in the original location. The filter "requires" a slight indentation so that it clears the pitman arm connection to the reach arm.

We are currently realigning the drive's side exhaust to clear the full extent of the reach arm. Basically when the steering approaches the full extent (left or right) the reach arm moves towards the center line of the car. This is "aggressively rubbing" the exhaust pipe. By currently - I am typing this while we are waiting for the weld to cool.

[truckguy]

You got yourself a really nice car!

[DTHolder]

Front Shock Conversion

Unless someone tells me to stop (moderator ) I will use this thread to post on the work I have done to my 50 Commander.


For reference:
Page number = manual number, not the PDF page number
Diagram number = number on the diagram "plate" (used generically, must look up part number from tables following the diagram.
Part number is the specific Studebaker part number.
9A is the 1950 Champion, 17A is the 1950 Commander

[Purpose]
We looked into servicing the 17A front shocks (lever arm damper type). We bought oil suited for this purpose and started to clean back the years of grim and build up. Note: this was done from the wheel well side first. After most of the cleaning was done we finally looked through the engine compartment side at the lever arm attachment. This is when we noticed the previous owner used the lever arm bolt for the small block engine motor mount. This will be corrected very soon.

before cleaning, note the upper arm bumper is shot!


after cleaning


So... we could prop up the engine, remove the mount, remove the shock, and put it all back as is once finished... OR - we could convert to gas shocks and NOT touch the lever arm mount for now. This also means we don't need to service the lever arm shocks which seem to require this more than we like.

[Research]
Upper mount:
In the 1950 Chassis Parts manual, page 236, we see diagram number 1507-12 (upper shock mount) on both the Champion and Commander car frames. Looking up this diagram number we see it is the same part number and name, "524795 Bracket, Steering Knuckle Upper Support Arm Shaft", for both vehicles. So far - so good!

Lower A-Arms:
Chassis Parts manual pages 196 & 198 (9A and 17A respectively) show diagram number 1204-61. However - looking this up we see these ARE different part numbers. Looking over the diagram, and other reference materials, it appears the diagram for the 17A is missing 1205-10 (part ID 525024 "Bracket Control Arm Stabilizer Link") but in the real world it is there - just on the back side. Following a post on Studebaker Drivers Club we decided to move forward.

Lower Shock Mount:
The lower shock mount (that attaches to the lower control arm) is found in the Chassis Parts manual on page 271, diagram number 1801-50 (9A only) Looking this up we see Part number 524852 per page 276. Double checking the diagrams we see that this will mount to the 17A. We also triple checked that the Commander has the 3 bolt holes in the lower control arm. [pic] Part 524852 is/was available from mystudebaker.com and are/were $30 each.

lower a arm with shock mount holes



Shocks:
Using the "Studebaker Maintenance Parts Cross Reference" maintained by Nat Nagel (link found on Studebaker Drivers Club tips page, THANK YOU!) we see several shocks that can be used as modern day replacements for the 9A. We narrowed the selection to the Monroe 5751 and KYB 343137. Because the 17A coil spring is slightly taller than the 9A (forgot where this idea comes from) we choose the KYB shock. We will also be using a set of coil spring compression clamps to bring the height closer to the 9A and to hopefully lower the stance of the car.

[Purchases]
We ordered the lower shock mounts and all of the shock grommets, retainers, and seats from mystudebaker.com. As they use the Studebaker part numbers this was a very easy process to do over the phone. They had everything we looked up and the service was incredible. It is always a treat to monitor where your order is located within the UPSP delivery process.

The shocks and coil compression clamps were sourced locally (O'Reillys auto) along with the 3/8"-24 x 1" bolts used to attach to the lower shock mount to the lower A-Arm. Locking washers and hex nuts also were also purchased.

[Part arrival]
The parts arrived in short order and were inspected. Of course the lower shock mounts had some surface rust, which is expected. This was wire brushed off, primed and painted flat black.


[Installation]
First we installed the coil compression clamps. We thought about this long and hard with the following concerns:
1. Will there be clearance issues once we insert the spring?
2. Once we install the spring will the clamps be needed at all?
3. If we install the spring first will there room to install and tighten the clamps?

In the end we went for it and installed the clamps first.


Using the 1950 Shop manual we simple followed the "Installation - Champion" instructions found on page 226. Attach spring (with grommets, retainers, seats) to lower shock mount. Insert through bottom of lower A-arm. Compress coil (read as jack up lower A-arm) and attach to top mount, again with grommets, retainers and sets. Note: we did use one of the KYB grommet seats as is seemed to be a better fit above the shock and under the Steering Knuckle Upper Support Arm Shaft.

[Completed Work]

lower shock mount bolting


shock installed with clearance for clamps


top of shock


We also replaced the Upper Control Arm Bumper (shown in the before picture), part number 526337. It was basically destroyed and now with shocks that actually work it hopefully will not be hit again - but is there just in case.

As time and moderators permit I will post on other "mini projects" on the Commander.

[DTHolder]

Exhaust Modification

For reference:
Page number = manual number, not the PDF page number
Diagram number = number on the diagram "plate" (used generically, must look up part number from tables following the diagram.
Part number is the specific Studebaker part number.
TPO = The Previous Owner

[Purpose]
As shown at the beginning of this thread - TPO installed a 327 into the 50 Commander, thus replacing the flat head 6. While this is cool and all it does have some issues. The most important was the steering reach arm clearance. The reach arm (part number 526568), shown on page 149 of the 50 Shop manual, needs to move towards the engine when it gets to the fullest extent of steering wheel rotation. This is due to its connection to the Bell Crank.

While the original engine has plenty of clearance the 327 replacement does not. This meant that as you neared full rotation of the steering wheel, the reach arm would hit the drivers side exhaust...

picture of drivers side exhaust and reach arm, notice how tight this area is:


[Solution]
Note: We are NOT a welders. Welders are talented people with years of experience.
While we could have sent this out to a local shop we thought, "What is the worst that could happen?", and "How hard could it be?" (famous last words) As such we cut the exhaust, unbolted it and did a lot of measuring.

TPO did put in two ~45 degree bends in the exhaust but the arm was hitting the point between the bends. We used CAD (Cardboard Assisted Design) to outline the shape of the exhaust and to mark how much we needed to move the pipe towards the engine. We then made our first cut.


Putting this onto the CAD outline


and then closing the cut shows we did enough


After welding this up we lowered a small light into the pipe and looked for any pinhole leaks and yep, we repaired ALL OF THEM. (sorry no photos at this point)
We attempted to fit the pipe back to the manifold knowing that it will not fit. We had the clearance for the reach arm but moved the pipe some much that it now hit the engine block. We actually expected this and made a few "relief cuts" to angle the pipe back towards ground.

Again, we are NOT welders but it works with no leaks.

[Installation]
While the "per-modified" pipe came out easily, the new "overly bendy" version took some fiddling! Ultimately we got it in and it works fine or so we thought.

picture from below, pipe comes down alone engine, showing the reach arm with more clearance.


picture from above, you can see where TPO tried to bend the reach arm for some clearance.


Lastly we punted and used an exhaust clamp to reattach the cut/bent/welded pipe back to the rest of the system.


As repeatedly stated, We are NOT welders! We felt that our welding was not good enough to attempt this final weld which could only be done in place!


[Completed Work]
While this is massively better then before we did fail. When you turn the steering wheel ALL THE WAY it does still hit the exhaust but only in the last 1/8 (or less) of a rotation. This will hopefully be "fixed" when we work on replacing the tie rod ends. We hope to adjust the Steering Knuckle Stop Screw to limit the full extent of turning. While this will reduce the turning radius it won't be much.

[post update]
As expected, once we started on the tie rods (future post I guess) we where able to get to the "Steering Knuckle Stop Screw" (50' shop manual page 157). Amazingly while the manual has a section on this we could not find any other reference in the manual or parts catalog. It can be seen in figure 295 which details the knuckle but is part of the "lower support". I would have thought that because it could be removed from the lower support it would have detailed a bit.

(click for full image)

By simply loosening the rear locking nut we were able to extend the stop screw. Because the stop screw will intentionally hit the back of the brake backing plate it will limit the rotation of the steering knuckle. Working backwards this limits the travel of the tie rods, which limits the rotation of the bell crank, which limits the reach arm, which limits the lateral movement (towards the engine) of the reach arm (and ultimately limits the rotation of the steering wheel). THIS is what we wanted - to reduced the reach arm lateral movement and NOW we are not hitting the exhaust. It was a small adjustment as we where barely touching the exhaust.

[DTHolder]

Wiring

TPO = The Previous Owner

[Purpose]
After getting the 50 Commander home and really taking a look at the engine compartment wiring it became obvious that some things needed replaced.

[Process]
Replace, where possible, wire for wire, heat shrink what could not be replaced. In the before photos you will see how TPO spliced melted wires together when they should have been replaced. How some odd "foam tubing" was used to insulate wires (some still exist) and how some "lamp cord" (I am guessing) was used in a rather unique way.

We did decide to stop at the firewall for the moment as the dash is someone congested and is in relatively good shape.

Fire Wall Junction Box:
First lets look at the Junction Box mounted on the firewall. (all images link to larger versions)

The burnt/melted looking wires are from the rear wiring harness that feeds the tail lights, license plate and trunk lamps. The Junction Box, which I first mistook as a ground, is used to connect the dash wiring to the turn signals (front and back) and other lights. I was impressed/shocked that the car did not burn to the ground every time TPO used the turn signals/headlights/brakes.

Here is the current Fire Wall Junction Box.

What could be replaced was. What could be shrunk wrapped was. There are still some issues but I will wait for other electrical work (alternator) to address. I was also not willing to replace the headlight high beam switch wiring, it looked pretty good and like a real pain to get too.

Front Drivers Side Junction Box:
So..., the headlights and turn signal wiring follows the drivers side of the engine compartment to the drivers side junction box. At/near this point they split between left and right sides with only the left (drivers) side going to the drivers side junction box. TPO decided to incorporate the fender spear jewels (plastic inserts at the end of the fender trim) into the turn signals. This is actually pretty cool. When you turn on the turn signal it also flashes an LED mounted inside the spear and behind the jewel. TPO did however appear to use lamp cord???


What I found was a mess (hot mess??) of tape, burnt wires, and lamp cord.

I was able to work with the harness that goes to the headlight but the wires here are very short and exposed.

You can see I kept the lamp cord wiring but did put on proper connections and was able to heat shrink everything else. You can also see the connections to the passenger side with my little red marks to ensure each wire remained with its corresponding wire. One item of interest, I started to add the junctions box connectors to the wires BEFORE I tried to remove the nuts from the box. This was a mistake. ONE of the junction box nuts was not removable and I had to remove the junction box. Because the headlight wires are so short I felt like I could not remove the round fitting so I used new bolts to make a sort of "floating bolt" connection. These are shrunk wrapped in a clear tubing. (not exposed) Lesson learned, check the whole system before making permanent additions. Also, spot applications of rubber coating were added to the base of the heat shrink areas where the tubing could not reach.

Passenger Side Junction Box:
While not worse than the drivers side it was not really any better. Actually once I got all of the tape off I found odd short extensions where added to get the wires to the junction box and then another short wire from the junction box to the head light harness. ODD.

Another thing I found that was cool is the remote starter TPO added. This means you can turn the engine over (if the ignition is off) or start the car from the engine compartment. The "feature" stayed.

While removing the junction box (planned after the drivers side issues) I found the same issue and made the decision to remove it a necessity. Because i was ahead of the issue I did not have to use the floating bolt system as before.


All of the wires that traversed to the passenger side are zip tied to the brace behind the famous bullet nose ornament.

With all of the wiring replaced we are left with 5 new wires for the lights and one for the horn.

This was truly not acceptable as they will become damaged and while I am happy with the work I don't need everyone seeing my wiring mess.

introducing some cheap cable wrap we get the following.


While some wiring issues remain (alternator, heater motor, defroster motor, glove box, I could go on) I believe I have removed the risk of burning the car to the ground.

[sweetolbob]

Thanks for posting. You passion for the car shows and it will be a hit at car shows and on the road. The color and the uniqueness will help.

If you want to weld in the future on metal like that, turn up the heat more and use 0.023/24 wire if you are not currently. You can practice on about 1/8" metal that is clean and set about the wire diameter apart. Don't be afraid to burn through and adjust your technique from there. I'm not a welder but had a highly qualified BIL that helped me get started. Practice made pretty good in my case. BIL said neither I nor my welds are pretty but they penetrate and he'd trust them.

I'm not sure about your background but I sure like your report writing style. Reminds me of a career I once enjoyed.

Keep up the good work and keep posting.

Bob

[DTHolder]

For reference:
TPO = The Previous Owner
CAD = Cardboard Aided Design (we are fans of Project Binky)

Ok, not a huge amount of work but I have some photos.

While following some TPO wiring (manual switch for radiator fan) we mistakenly "touched" the glove-box. Of course we had opened the glove box door previously but we actually touched the cardboard and well, we broke it. It was already broken but we tried to move it just a bit. Needless to say the 68 year old paper decided to give one last hurrah and fell to the floor with the saddest sound ever.

Well we have a metal break and decided to just build our own. First we used CAD to flush out a shape and gave some thought to how we would mount the new box. We removed the sad little bits from the dash. Bent up some metal - drilled some holes - and began test fitting. As usual the first back panel was a complete failure and we drastically simplified the design.

Some of the thoughts that went into the process were:

• Do we fold in the back for wiper pulley clearance or make it shorter in the back?
• Do we pop rivet the whole thing together, in place, or try to bolt it in order to make it semi-removable?
• Do we leave it metal or do something else?
• Do we need a glove-box light?

We decided to make the bottom and sides from a single piece and by flexing the sides a bit we can installed it though the front. The back panel is folded under to create alignment holes to attach to the sides and bottom. The back, which has the relief for the defroster was also bent over to allow room for the wiper pulley. This was inserted from below, aligned with the holes and bolted together. This means we "could" in the future remove the box if needed. We added a bracket that runs from the bottom front, along the bottom to the back, and then turns up. This has a captive nut welded onto it and we could use a short bolt from the inside. This stiffens the unit considerably and was a simply solution.



After a couple days of looking/touching the box we decided that while our upholstery skills are nil we could use some 3M glue and wound up using a heavy felt.



While we had/have plans to make a top for the box we may just leave it open to the dash underside. The sides are as high as possible and there is no fear of anything falling up/out. To the light... TPO did an odd bent washer type of mount for the door moment switch which looks original. The wiring was junk and while there was a switch there was not light connected to it. We scrapped the idea of adding a light and will re-purpose the wire (hot on ignition) for powering the cigar lighter (AKA USB charging port)

[R_David]

Sweet car, love the pics and updates. Thanks for sharing!

[DTHolder]

Brake and Clutch Pedal

For reference:
TPO = The Previous Owner
All images link to larger version


[Purpose]
IF you have read this far you know the original manual transmission has been replaced with a Turbo 350 automatic. What is weird is that TPO left the original clutch pedal??? It was just laying there flat on the floor.



TPO did add lay carpet under-lament and actually worked around the pedal arm. The return spring has been removed and again - the pedal is just laying on the floor. We also just want to point out that it was TPO that added the barefoot pedals but we do like them.

[Research]
We talked at length about what to do here. Some of the options were:

• Replace the return spring and have a fake clutch just to fool people.
• Re purpose the pedal for the high beam switch just to be goofy. (side note - my son had NEVER seen a vehicle with the high beam switch on the floor)
• Remove the pedal when we eventually get to the interior.

But then we say THIS:



This is awesome! If we could find just two parts we could convert the clutch pedal to a bigger "original - automatic transmission" brake pedal. The pedal pad (1108-8 in the parts catalog) is part number 527755 and was found on studebakerparts.com. The pedal pad looks amazing. It looks brand spanking new!



The plate (1108-12 in the parts catalog) is part number 527753 and was a bit of an adventure. We found this on the Stephen Allen's LLC (mystudebaker.com) but while the part number was correct the description made it appear to be the pedal pad. Believing the part number and the price difference we ordered it. Danny from Stephen Allen's called me back to confirm we wanted the plate. It appeared that their computer system, and shelf labeling, where both wrong and he wanted to confirm I needed the plate. (we have had the best service from all of the Studebaker Vendors we have contacted. (another personal note: Stephen Allen's seems to go just one step further in service.)

[Process]
Both parts arrived in short order and we set about the task of removing the pedals. Believing we needed to get to the bolt that screws into the pedal arms we used a heat gun with a utility knife and eventually arrived at the bolt. (personal note: 68 year old rubber heated up is not a pretty smell)



This is the most low profile bolt head every. OK it may just be part of the pedal but if you look at the parts manual you will see it should be a bolt. We tried several wrenches, sockets, and were just about to cut a slot - so we would have an excuse for that huge screwdriver we purchased years ago. Then in a moment of thought (beer) and reflection (gin & tonic) we realized that once removed we had zero intention of keeping the original pedal. A quick measurement just to verify the larger pedal will fit and... Out came the 24" pipe wrench (read as attack!!!), with some penetrating oil and elbow grease we win.



Using some smaller diameter bolts, washers, and nuts (future proofing) we attached the pedal plate and pad and gazed at what we had achieved!



Now we know its not much and this could have easily gone easier (more lazy) and cheaper (again, do nothing) but come on, This is Awesome!

[DTHolder]

Tie Rods

For reference.
TPO = The Previous Owner
NOS = New Old Stock (or New On Shelf)

Unlike previous post you get two options - short version and long version.

[short version]
As part of the items needed before we feel the vehicle is "road worthy", AKA can be driven with some level of mechanical reliability, these have been on the list for some time.

tie rods seals needed replaced - win
ordered seals - win
can't get seals on ends - fail
messed up threads on removal - fail
repaired threads - fail
ordered new ends - win
replaced - meh!

[Long version]
[Purpose]
Much like other non-engine or transmission related parts of the car TPO simply did not address any issues relating to the tie rods. The first time we removed the tires we added these to the list of items needing attention. (side note: Left Hand Lug Nuts - really!!)


[Process]
Removing the front tires revealed the issues.




Our first thought, wrongly, was to replace just the tie-rod seals which we found out are actually leather. (wow)



We removed the tie-rods and just about destroyed the threads in the process. We watched videos and read a far amount and by all accounts putting on the castle nut upsidedown and hitting it with a hammer is a time honored way of removing them.



After "repairing" the threads...


(We actually rented an entire thread repair kit from O'Reilly's Auto)

... and attempting to re-install them we found the ends were just not worth the effort. As such, we ordered up a new pair of ends. Of course they came with NOS seals and we basically gave away the money for the seals purchased prior.



Amazingly once you have new (NOS) parts the installation goes MUCH easier.



[Project Completed]
This was actually a simple replacement once we got the originals off the vehicle. What we learned was our first instinct was correct. Just replace the entire part. This would have saved only $17 (NOS seals) but a large amount of frustration. In the end we feel like the steering is more reliable which was the point. This was completed 6 days before the NON-OP registration converted to OPERATIONAL so the timing was not an issue.

[DTHolder]

Swaybar

For reference:
TPO = The Previous Owner
CAD = Cardboard Aided Design

[Purpose]
To correct something embarresing before our friends saw it! Well that and perhaps for safety reasons and self preservation.


[Drop Links]
First the easy part to explain.
One of the known issues prior to purchase of the Studebaker was the sway bar drop links. The sway bar "drop links" (read as long bolt with grommets) were in desperate need of replacement. Sure these could have stayed but we were already there and well - they were bad!


Passenger side as found.


Driver side after removal

As we just happen to have 8 rubber grommets from the gas shock conversion project this was a no brainer. Use the grommets we already have.



With some quick swapping of grommets a few new retainers ("washers") we did a quick reinstall with the original bolting.


Drivers side reinstalled.

This was the easy part as you only need a couple wrenches, a little elbow grease, and voila - new drop links.



[Sway Bar Frame Mounts]
First let us say, "WE DID NOT DO THIS!"
Now the more difficult part - the sway bar frame mounts, but first some back story.

The '50 Commander came with a flat head 6 cylinder engine. TPO resurrected the car from a dirt field and we believe the car was without said engine. TPO installed a small block chevy 327 and a Turbo 350 automatic transmission. All of this to say the original sway bar (at least with its original mounts) would not fit because of the larger/lower transmission.

TPO being somewhat "free wheeling" decided a spacer would be the perfect solution and apparently cast about for something that would do the trick. We believe this was from a recent deck project, as it appears to be TREX DECKING material???



You can see he used the same holes in the frame as the original bracket, which is still in use, and just used longer bolts.



When we first saw this for what it was (after we puchased the car) we were stunned. After removing the "spacer" (Trex/plastic) we saw this:



We believe the cracking is due to the "spacer", which is flat, being bolted to the frame over the doubling plate for the body mount.



It was at this moment we were glad we where on this mini project.

Looking between the two photos you can see TPO made a flat bottom hole to accomodate the body mount bolt head. The original mounts had a simular hole for this purpose.



We first traced the "spacer" outline, complete with bolt holes in CAD form. This became the template to shape 4 mounting plates out of plate steel. We intended to then cut the plates, cut some yet determined "sleaves", and weld it all up into some nice brackets. Then we thought about that doubling plate. We did not want to recreate the same "flat to stepped" bolt up issues that TPO had, so it was time for a quick redesign.

Introducting the barrel connector (coupling nut).



After talking about it with multiple design changes, go CAD, we decided to take the most straight forward approach which also happened to be a bolt on solution. As such, if we did not like it we could simply un-bolt it and move to the next plan.

As short as can be stated, our plan works like this. Add washers, replace "spacer" (I still cringe) with barrel connectors.

As we mocked this up we realized that unlike TPO design the barrel connectors will have no lateral movement, will add some level of tighting (since they thread on also) and we get around the bolt up issues detailed above.

Of course we wire wheeled all returning parts and with some new black paint:



And two new bushings



We bolted the frame mount to the frame with some new bolts just to show off.


Notice that now the step form the frame to doubling plate is not an issue.

Next is putting the bushings on the swaybar and bolting them into place with the bushing bracket.



[Completed Work]
While we are sure that a custom, built to suit, sway bar could have been manufactured. And said custom bar would have used the original mounts only. AND that it would of course been very shiny. It would have been expensive as all get and would basically perform the same job. Based on the bushing bracket, which is quite thin, we don't need much reinforcement here. Afterall - it's a Studebaker and it will not be taking corners at any speed of concern.

It IS felt that the Trex/plastic "spacers" (We just can't call them actual spacers) may not have been the smartest/safest thing to do and we are much more at ease with the new all metal mounts we have now! We will monitor this mounting for any signs of movement. If we have to make any changes I am sure you will read about it here!

[DTHolder]

Hello all,
It's been a while since an update on the progress but there is a good reason and I think this post will explain some of the reasons.

Having taken a small break from working on the 50' Commander (which now has the name ChevyBaker - you'll see why) we addressed the engine mount issues. The previous owner, who resurrected the car from a field, installed a nice 327 Chevy small block. Of course the car was not built for this so some things needed to be "adjusted". One of these "things" was the engine mounts.


The engine mounts where made from plate steel - bolted to the engine - and then bolted directly to "something". In the case of the drivers side it was to the hydraulic dampener top bolt.

We found a fabrication shop and after discussing the issue(s) gave the ChevyBaker over for some work. Along with the metal on metal mounts we found the engine was mounted too high, more to the left than centered, was actually not sitting in-line with the drive shaft, and had a bit of rotation in it. In short - it was wrong on every axis.

What follows took a year to this point.
Engine Out:

New Mount - with rubber insert:
Reinstall engine:

The engine now sits at the correct height and orientation.

The over arching issue was/is the steering bell crank and reach arm. As you turn the steering wheel the reach arm pushes/pull the bell crank which is mounted on top of the cross member. This means the engine can only be lowered so far...

[tootie]

Really nice ride !!!!drive the wheels off that ole girl !!