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  • 246 engine stops running after restart

    I have a 1951 2R11 with a 246 cu in engine. I replaced the exhaust manifold recently. Since then the truck starts like it always did runs like it did until l turn it off and then start again. It will start and run for about 30 seconds then stop running. It will not start immediately. After approximately 15 minutes it will restart. It runs well again but I better not turn it off if I need to start it again or the same issue happens. There is gas in the fuel pump bowl. It act like a vapor lock? I have noticed a small tube which comes from the vent tube and runs between the engine and the exhaust manifold that is not connected to anything. Could that cause the issue?

  • #2
    What's the operating temp ?? Does your guage work correctly ?? You shouldn't have any vapor lock in MI at this time....

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    • #3
      My guess, and a guess only, is you picked up a vacuum leak or have a warped cracked intake manifold. Cools off seals well, or at least good enough to start, heats up-- bigger vacuum leak, stills runs with the vacuum leak, but is too lean to restart till it cools off and reseals. Could be percolation, but you would think it would have done so before the exchange. As said--guessing only. Try retorquing it and maybe running a bit of grease around the intake manifold flange edges to see if that stops it-then put in new gasket if that works.

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      • #4
        You could also check for a clogged Fuel Filter somewhere, some carbs. have an inlet screen that would take time for more fuel to penetrate though a 80% clogged one, and restart after setting.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Check for vacuum leaks by spraying Chemtool around the manifold to block gasket while the engine is idling.

          Make sure that the heat riser is either operational, or if it is jammed, make sure it is jammed in the open position.
          RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

          17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
          10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
          10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
          4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
          5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
          56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
          60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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          • #6
            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
            Check for vacuum leaks by spraying ........
            ....

            If you use Propane from a hand held bottle ( without lighting it) and the Propane finds a vacuum leak, it will be drawn into the intake. When it gets to the cylinders, it will increase the RPM significantly and immediately. You can tell where the vacuum leak is right then, whether hoses or gaskets.......
            64 GT Hawk (K7)
            1970 Avanti (R3)

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            • #7
              When the engine starts to stumble squirt some fuel down the carb to confirm it is a fuel problem. Additionally confirm the fuel line is tight with no pin holes.

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              • #8
                Are you using the 10% crap gas? I use only the good gas without ethanol, but 2 years ago I drove my 1950 Champion to Michigan and got stuck with the crap gas when I couldn't find any of the good gas. It destroyed my fuel pump, so I had to install an electric rotary pump to get home. I was still having some starting problems like you describe, and I found the intake to the fuel line in the tank was blocked by the tank liner someone put into the tank 22 years ago. I finished stripping the liner out of the tank a couple weeks ago, and have put a couple hundred miles on the car since then. So far it's been starting much better, even after the short stops at the store.

                You might want to tee in a vacuum gauge at the fuel pump intake, just to see if there is blockage. Also check the fuel pump for pressure and flow out.

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                • #9
                  agree with TWChamp, also since you replaced the manifold, have the checked the spring on the side of the exhaust manifold that controls the butterfly there and does the butterfly (I forgot what it's called) work ok?

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                  • #10
                    Everyone, thanks for some good suggestions.
                    jackb , the temp gage works and runs at 170 even when we had a 90 degree day when I had the issue.
                    StudeRich/TWChampI installed an inline filter when I purchased the truck(primarily to protect the rebuilt carb. I also had the fuel tank sand blasted and coated). The filter was dirty. Unfortunately I am using the crap gas. The carb and tank should be ethanol resistant. I don't think the fuel pump is causing the problem as when it runs, it runs well.
                    karterfred88- you might be on to something with the vaccum leaks. I have retorqued the manifolds. It's difficult to get the middle two nuts behind the carb. Any suggestions? I also tightened all the vaccum lines. I still don't know what the line is for coming from the vent tube. Any idaes? I noticed the old gasket was metalic but the new one is the standard high temp material. I'm tempted to double the gasket. Something else I noticed when I bolted up the exhaust, it was hitting the engine causing an exhaust leak. I'm concerned the manifolds aren't sealing properly. I've considered putting on the original intake. I dropped the exhaust tonight and am trying to adjust the exhaust eliminating it leaning against the engine.
                    RadioRoy- I am not familar with Chemtool. I see several types. Which one are you suggesting and where do you buy it?
                    Mrs K Corbin- The heat riser is operational.
                    altair- It doesn't stumble until I am headed down the road, so can't prime it. The line is tight.
                    64V-K7- I haven't heard about the propane. I'll have to try it.

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                    • #11
                      A lot of your symptoms are the same as what my Model A has when I use the 10% ethanol crap gas. After I started using the good gas only the Model A works fine. I don't know if you can buy the good gas in Michigan, but if you can I'd sure give it a try.

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                      • #12
                        B-12 Chemtool is a carburetor cleaner in a spray can. Get it at FLAPS ( friendly local auto parts store). You can use WD-40, but B-12 will show a vacuum leak more readily (or find a smaller leak) than WD-40. Spray it around the manifold gasket and the base of the carb. If the idle speed changes, there is a leak.
                        Last edited by RadioRoy; 06-23-2016, 01:01 PM.
                        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I believe the stalling issue is solved. After trying a number of suggestions, I broke down and installed an electric fuel pump. The truck has been running like a champ and even starts easier. One issue is now that I have disconnected the mechanical pump I have no vaccum wipers. Any auggestions besides going to an electric conversion?

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                          • #14
                            I never drive my 53' in the rain...no wipers....Rain-X ?

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by DaveB View Post
                              I believe the stalling issue is solved. After trying a number of suggestions, I broke down and installed an electric fuel pump. The truck has been running like a champ and even starts easier. One issue is now that I have disconnected the mechanical pump I have no vaccum wipers. Any auggestions besides going to an electric conversion?
                              Rebuild your original pump and use an electric that will allow the fuel to flow through when it is not needed. You should have the vaccuum needed and should only need the electric for the hot start (might not even need it then). Steve
                              sigpic

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