Avanti Repaint

[Warren Webb]

The last car I painted in lacquer was my 66 Daytona. I had sanded it down to the factory primer the painted it & used slightly over 3 quarts for the complete job. Two years later it started to check. Before when you had lacquer checking it was from too thick of a base, so that with expansion & contraction you would see cracks or checking, also commonly called "crows feet". I knew that wasn't the cause on the Daytona so the only conclusion I could see is how lacquer was made, in this case 1989. With all the regulations being enforced I figured the paint companies, in this case R-M, was formulating the paint trying to comply & causing the paint to fail much sooner than before.

I painted my #1 Avanti in august 1994 in a 2 stage, urethane paint by PPG. Today it still looks new. Yes there are a couple chips here & there & last week I noticed a crack on the top of the right quarter but if I had to do it again I would use the same material.

Another case was the last Studebaker made, the 66 Cruiser. When I saw it in 93 I couldn't believe how bad the paint looked. It sure didn't look as good as the last South Bend car. Dull & very orange peeled. No wonder it was redone a few years ago. I sure wouldn't want any of my cars that I've painted look that "original".

[SN-60]

The last car I painted in lacquer was my 66 Daytona. I had sanded it down to the factory primer the painted it & used slightly over 3 quarts for the complete job. Two years later it started to check. Before when you had lacquer checking it was from too thick of a base, so that with expansion & contraction you would see cracks or checking, also commonly called "crows feet". I knew that wasn't the cause on the Daytona so the only conclusion I could see is how lacquer was made, in this case 1989. With all the regulations being enforced I figured the paint companies, in this case R-M, was formulating the paint trying to comply & causing the paint to fail much sooner than before.

I painted my #1 Avanti in august 1994 in a 2 stage, urethane paint by PPG. Today it still looks new. Yes there are a couple chips here & there & last week I noticed a crack on the top of the right quarter but if I had to do it again I would use the same material.

Another case was the last Studebaker made, the 66 Cruiser. When I saw it in 93 I couldn't believe how bad the paint looked. It sure didn't look as good as the last South Bend car. Dull & very orange peeled. No wonder it was redone a few years ago. I sure wouldn't want any of my cars that I've painted look that "original".

Warren, from your explanation, you did not prepare your '66 Daytona properly to receive lacquer paint. The lacquer paint job that you applied was doomed to failure.....Sorry!

[StudeNewby]

Richard Lentinello's column in the latest HCC explores this very topic. Since I have yet to paint one of my Studes, I hadn't considered the changes in paints since they were new. Lentinello's column and this thread have been very helpful.

[Warren Webb]

Warren, from your explanation, you did not prepare your '66 Daytona properly to receive lacquer paint. The lacquer paint job that you applied was doomed to failure.....Sorry!

What did I not do to prepare it properly? I'm very curious.

[bezhawk]

I have had urethane paint jobs of mine lasting over 20 years, no cracking or hazing. Not always garaged etc. I don't think lacquer is as durable over the long haul. Try spilling brake fluid on lacquer. Spilling gasoline on lacquer will discolor it. UV will kill it in short order. You don't see many lacquer paint jobs on high altitude state vehicles that look good.

[studegary]

I have done lacquer paint jobs, on Studebakers, that still looked like show cars after 35-40 years.
As with any paint job, preparation and materials are major components (along with painting skills).

[SN-60]

What did I not do to prepare it properly? I'm very curious.

OK Warren,....... As I'm sure you know, Studebaker passenger cars were painted in enamel. (except, of course, for the Avantis)

When you said that you sanded your Daytona down to the "factory primer", and then proceeded with the refinishing process....that is where you made your big mistake.

Why?, because the primer which Studebaker used was compatible with ENAMEL topcoats.....NOT lacquer.

What you really should have done is strip that Daytona right down to bare metal....and then proceeded with a refinishing process to ONLY INCLUDE primers compatible with lacquer topcoats.

Frankly, the way you did it, I'm surprised the paint job lasted as long as it did!..Take care, SN-60

[SN-60]

OK Warren,....... As I'm sure you know, Studebaker passenger cars were painted in enamel. (except, of course, for the Avantis)

When you said that you sanded your Daytona down to the "factory primer", and then proceeded with the refinishing process....that is where you made your big mistake.

Why?, because the primer which Studebaker used was compatible with ENAMEL topcoats.....NOT lacquer.

What you really should have done is strip that Daytona right down to bare metal....and then proceeded with a refinishing process to ONLY INCLUDE primers compatible with lacquer topcoats.

Frankly, the way you did it, I'm surprised the paint job lasted as long as it did!..Take care, SN-60

Just a 'bump'!

[Studebaker1965]

So what kind of enamel would you guys use for that "factory" look today? I've been using acrylic paints on the engine (ppg acrylic urethane, not enamel) for example. I used acrylic enamel on the wheels and frame. I know the factory used "air-dried enamel" that was baked on in an oven. What is comparable or better today and would you include clear coat? I'm not ready to paint my original paint Stude, just adding to the conversation.

Nate

[63t-cab]

Nate, if it were Me - I'd go the Acrylic Urethane,single stage for solid colors and base clear for metallics "JMHO"

So what kind of enamel would you guys use for that "factory" look today? I've been using acrylic paints on the engine (ppg acrylic urethane, not enamel) for example. I used acrylic enamel on the wheels and frame. I know the factory used "air-dried enamel" that was baked on in an oven. What is comparable or better today and would you include clear coat? I'm not ready to paint my original paint Stude, just adding to the conversation.

Nate

[SN-60]

So what kind of enamel would you guys use for that "factory" look today? I've been using acrylic paints on the engine (ppg acrylic urethane, not enamel) for example. I used acrylic enamel on the wheels and frame. I know the factory used "air-dried enamel" that was baked on in an oven. What is comparable or better today and would you include clear coat? I'm not ready to paint my original paint Stude, just adding to the conversation.

Nate

The best paint to use today to achieve the ORIGINAL Studebaker factory/dealer showroom look would be acrylic enamel with hardener added to give it reasonable durability.......and yes, the finished product really should have a bit of 'orange peel' AND a speck of dirt here and there!

I can picture the 'three coats of clear--wet sand--then three more coats of clear' crowd rolling their eyes now!!


PS....I'm talking postwar Stude passenger cars and trucks OTHER than Avantis!!!!!!

[Studebaker1965]

My original paint doesn't have much orange peel, but there are a few runs in the door jamb and drips at the bottom of the doors.

[SN-60]

My original paint doesn't have much orange peel, but there are a few runs in the door jamb and drips at the bottom of the doors.

Mopar nuts knock themselves out trying to replicate factory paint runs and sags (which, when new, those cars had PLENTY of)....it really gets crazy!!

[Studebaker1965]

Yea, that is probably something I would do. If I ever have to repaint, I'm going to leave the runs alone so they appear again. Being 31, I don't remember cars that didn't appear "perfect" off the assembly line. I wonder if runs would pass quality control today. On a different note, try to find a new Chevy without severe orange peel. It is totally acceptable today and I'm not sure if it has to do with how the cars are painted or the type of paint.

[Gunslinger]

Yeah...the Mopar guys are crazy for originality. Personally...if I was paying out the dineros some of them do to replicate factory paint, I'd expect perfection, not overspray or runs.