Tire changing question, jacks, etc...

[deco_droid]

Hey guys, I think I may know the answer, but just thought I'd run this by people with more experience. I have never had any need to change a tire on my Stude since I've owned it, but I just purchased some new tires and rims (more on that later) and thought I would install them myself, instead of taking it to a tire shop.

I have the jack that came with my car, but I also have a hydraulic floor jack, and was curious if it might be safer/more advisable to use the newer jack to change out my rims, rather than lift from the bumper with the original jack...and if so, where would be the best points to lift the car from, so as not to stress the frame.

Thanks for any advice, and I will post some pics of my new wheels later on.

[acolds]

Bumper jacks are not very safe and are hard on bumpers would only use as last resort. I carry a small floor jack in plastic case and some pieces of wood needed to get the back tire off on my Clipper and a socket of correct size . My factory tire tools are for show only

[StudeRich]

Definitely use a 2X6 or Two on the ground and the Hydraulic Jack on it, under the Rear Spring front frame perch and the Crossmember at the Front door Post. Jackstands are much preferred for this job.

As Al (acolds) said, the bumper jack is for show in the trunk where it should stay.

I take it that you plan on another post to get into the Tires and Wheels and that is fine, one thing at a time.

However, do NOT forget to remind the Tire Store or whatever about those LEFT HAND threads on the Left Drums!

Sometimes telling the "Salesman"/Service Writer who does the write up does NOT get the job done, you may need to remind the actual Technician who may not read all of the Invoice, that you have the LH Studs, that is of course if they have not been modified.

[TWChamp]

Nice looking 50 Starlight you have. I've always jacked my 1950 Studebakers and other cars just as Rich mentioned. And as Rich mentioned, don't let the guys break the left hand thread studs on the left side. I've heard of it happening. I always like to do my own tire changing and mounting.

[paul shuffleburg]

Don't over tighten the lug nuts. 85 foot pounds.

[DEEPNHOCK]

P brake.
Wheel chock(s).
Jack stands.
Slightly loosen lug nuts before lifting.
Star pattern tightening.
Finish tightening after lowering.
Regular tire rotation to even wear*

(*worthy of separate thread)

[t walgamuth]

I went to take off a wheel on the Commander the other day and forgot about the left hand threads....yikes!

[deco_droid]

Thanks much, I thought as much about the factory jack, but just wanted to be sure. I do also have jackstands to keep the wheels up for extended periods. I am currently in a holding pattern because the wheel place accidentally sent me all rh lugs. Hopefully I'll be able to get going Monday or tuesday. Thanks again for the advice.

[RadioRoy]

Where did you get the new wheels and what brand/catalog number are they?

I've been thinking of getting some new stock looking wheels and WWW radials for my 50 Commander.

[jclary]

P brake.
Wheel chock(s).
Jack stands.
Slightly loosen lug nuts before lifting.
Star pattern tightening.
Finish tightening after lowering.
Regular tire rotation to even wear*

(*worthy of separate thread)

Great post Jeff. I'll add that if you do take your Studebaker to any shop where it might get lifted on a "four arm" lift...make sure to stay with the car and watch how the arms are extended and placed. I've seen young folks not familiar with true frame style cars, attempt to place the arms under the rocker or between the frame and rocker. I think that most lifts today are drive on ramps, but there are still some of the single post lifts out there. I once had a kid almost lift my Lark by the outer body support brackets. Fortunately, I caught it before he hit the valve lever. Young'uns only familiar with uni-bodies get confused about cars with an old style frame.

[deco_droid]

Sorry for the delay, guys -- It took longer than anticipated to get the correct lugs shipped out to me. Also, we were out of town for a few days.

... and to answer your question before I forget, Roy, I got the rims and tires at Hot Rod Hanks, but they're not too original looking, so you probably would not be interested in a similar set. Pics still to come later...

The wheels went on fine so thanks for all the tips, but I did run into an unrelated snag... when I was installing the left front wheel, I noticed that the drum turned only about half way freely, then with much pressure, it would turn another quarter or so. I THOUGHT perhaps the anti-creep was inhibiting the wheel from turning all the way, so I didn't really worry about it. Once I got all the wheels on, I took it for a spin around the block, but it felt like I was getting some drag from the front, so headed back. I lifted the car back up, and the left front wheel, again, will turn about half way, then hits drag turning the rest of the way. The right wheel is fine.

So, I am assuming the anti-creep is not the problem (though any insight there would be appreciated), but other than that, it seems like I have a sticking drum shoe for some reason? If so, that is odd, because I had no issue with the brakes the last time I drove it. I suppose it could be a coincidence.

Anyway, if anyone has any thoughts or similar issues in the past, please let me know what you think could be the problem and/or why. I have never had a reason to pull a drum off, and hear it is rather difficult to do, so if that is my first step, I will need to locate a puller. Thanks again.

[thunderations]

Hard to do a "Star Pattern" with only 4 lugs, but your right if you have 5.

P brake.
Wheel chock(s).
Jack stands.
Slightly loosen lug nuts before lifting.
Star pattern tightening.
Finish tightening after lowering.
Regular tire rotation to even wear*

(*worthy of separate thread)

[deco_droid]

Yes sir, 50 Commanders have five lug wheels. I'll update this thread with pics when I get my brake issue resolved. I copied my latest question into the tech forum. Thanks...

[njonkman]

First, you don't need a hub puller for the front brakes.
second, that brake drum is likely slightly out of round. Common problem. If you have auto adjusters on the brakes, you likely have them. Your brakes may be a bit tight at the moment. Almost every car has that. Unless your drums get hot don't even worry about that.
Nick

[Warren Webb]

Just a reminder to those who have 63 & later disc brakes. It is VERY IMPORTANT to tighten the lugs in a star pattern for the front disc's or otherwise you run the risk of warping the rotor. This urgency doesn't apply to those with drum brakes but if you have 5 lug wheels it doesn't hurt to be a habit.