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WIRING HARNESS INCLUDES WHAT?

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  • theGman
    replied
    Dittos to the EZ Wire harness; I've installed 6 or 7 of them; great price, fine quality. You can pick either all black wires, or GM color coded.
    Both have circuit names printed on the wires.

    Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • theGman
    replied
    Dittos to the EZ Wire harness; I've installed 6 or 7 of them; great price, fine quality. You can pick either all black wires, or GM color coded.
    Both have circuit names printed on the wires.

    Paul

    Leave a comment:


  • curt
    replied
    My harnes is a Studebaker West product. They call one evening to make sure they had the proper car model,etc. It went in with zero quality problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • curt
    replied
    My harnes is a Studebaker West product. They call one evening to make sure they had the proper car model,etc. It went in with zero quality problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    I ordered a complete, front-to-back (2-piece) harness for the Lark from Studebakers West. It cost about $650, but every connector is factory-correct and every wire is colored according to the factory diagram. Like Skip said, the connections were not labeled, and I spent a Saturday with a voltmeter and label machine (and yes, I have been accused of overcomplicating things from time to time ).

    Upshot is, I'm very pleased with the harness and when I install it, it will be a drop-in fit.


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    I ordered a complete, front-to-back (2-piece) harness for the Lark from Studebakers West. It cost about $650, but every connector is factory-correct and every wire is colored according to the factory diagram. Like Skip said, the connections were not labeled, and I spent a Saturday with a voltmeter and label machine (and yes, I have been accused of overcomplicating things from time to time ).

    Upshot is, I'm very pleased with the harness and when I install it, it will be a drop-in fit.


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    Aftermarket (hot rod) COMPLETE harnesses for the entire car PLUS a modern fuse box with the wires factory terminated there is about $175 or less for our Studebakers. Here's an example...

    http://www.ezwiring.com/

    If you are not into originality, this is the way to go (IMHO).


    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    Aftermarket (hot rod) COMPLETE harnesses for the entire car PLUS a modern fuse box with the wires factory terminated there is about $175 or less for our Studebakers. Here's an example...

    http://www.ezwiring.com/

    If you are not into originality, this is the way to go (IMHO).


    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    That's nice, Buddy - and one can do that without too much outlay so long as you don't mind working with wires that don't match the color codes of the wiring diagram. That, and you don't care about correctness as far as judging goes.
    Then there's the fact that not everyone's good and crimping or splicing. Having been an aircraft electrician, I'm often amazed at what some folks think passes for correct termination and connection.
    Yeah, the "$200" suggested here was for the MAIN harness - not the whole car's wiring system. Frankly, I think $300 for all the wiring on a car... one hell of a bargain. They don't just spit out of a machine somewhere. There's labor involved - and have you checked the price of scrap copper lately[:0]!!!!!

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    Leave a comment:


  • Roscomacaw
    replied
    That's nice, Buddy - and one can do that without too much outlay so long as you don't mind working with wires that don't match the color codes of the wiring diagram. That, and you don't care about correctness as far as judging goes.
    Then there's the fact that not everyone's good and crimping or splicing. Having been an aircraft electrician, I'm often amazed at what some folks think passes for correct termination and connection.
    Yeah, the "$200" suggested here was for the MAIN harness - not the whole car's wiring system. Frankly, I think $300 for all the wiring on a car... one hell of a bargain. They don't just spit out of a machine somewhere. There's labor involved - and have you checked the price of scrap copper lately[:0]!!!!!

    Miscreant adrift in
    the BerStuda Triangle


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe

    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    Studebakers West makes some nice and relatively inexpensive harnesses. They run an ad monthly in TW.


    Leave a comment:


  • Dick Steinkamp
    replied
    Studebakers West makes some nice and relatively inexpensive harnesses. They run an ad monthly in TW.


    Leave a comment:


  • Buddy1944
    replied
    I did a total replacement of ever wire except the interior light on my '54 Champion 15G. My total outlay was about $180 and I have a bunch of wire and stuff left over. It was very easy to do and it made a huge difference, especially the headlights.

    Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
    Warner Robins, GA 31088
    478-953-3077

    Leave a comment:


  • Buddy1944
    replied
    I did a total replacement of ever wire except the interior light on my '54 Champion 15G. My total outlay was about $180 and I have a bunch of wire and stuff left over. It was very easy to do and it made a huge difference, especially the headlights.

    Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
    Warner Robins, GA 31088
    478-953-3077

    Leave a comment:


  • curt
    replied
    I just replaced a main wireing harness on a '55 President. I labeled each wire at each end as it was removed from a connection. I cut the harness at the firewall after all labeling was done. Removed each section of old harness. I used a wireing digrams to label the new harness. Then I compared the two harness side by side on a table. I pulled the dash-end of the new harness through the firewall and reconnected everything. I did not remove the dash ,BUT I removed everything attached to the dash, radio, spedo, switches, stearing wheel,etc. Also I removed the front seat cushion and placed a plywood sheet over the seat's frame and heater. This gave me room to work under the dash. The hard part for me was the headlight switch,it must have 10 wires ans 8 different posts, label well. Car started up and everything worked as needed when I finished. Take your time and it will be a job well done.

    Leave a comment:

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