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1965 commander leaf springs

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  • 1965 commander leaf springs

    I need rear leaf springs for my 65 commander. Is there anywhere to get decent used ones. My guess is no but I figured it is worth a try. I know I can get new ones for about 450 but am trying to save a little money right now . Also I could have mine re arched but have read mixed reviews about doing that. I value the opinions given on this forum and appreciate the help I receive. Thanks

  • #2
    I bought a set from Sasco when they were still cheap, they were for a HD 62 wagon. I think that's all they had at the time.

    There's been talk of adding a leaf to springs before on here. I couldn't find a thread but here's one from the Bob Johnstone site.
    http://www.studebaker-info.org/rearsprings1.html

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    • #3
      I had the leaf springs on my Sky Hawk re-arched 26 years ago. I drive it hard and after about 25K miles I see no significant change. If your spring man is reliable and has a good reputation I would recommend you do it.Click image for larger version

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ID:	1696125Rich Knoblock, son of a Studebaker dealer.

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      • #4
        Bill; You didn't give enough info. in your question for a decent answer. What is wrong with your current springs? Do you want more load carrying capacity? You going to do a little drag racing? I have both done and had done over the years leaf re-arching. It works, but if the old metal is well fatigued they flatten out faster than new springs. You have to start out with well documented measurements. Check the true arch. That is a center line of the 2 spring eyes, to the bolt hole in the spring where the rear end mounts. No sense paying $450 for a set of springs with the same specs. If you have an old time spring shop around they charge around $140 each for just a new main leaf made up. You could have a new new thicker main leaf made. Or you could find a 58 up spring set and remove the main leaf then cut the ends off and dog ear the ends. Then put this back in your spring pack, but you will have to make some new spring clips. What I am trying to tell you is, no matter what you do it is going to cost some money but you are going to have to do some leg work.

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        • #5
          Alan, excellent point. What problem are we trying to correct, spring wrap, rusted springs, car not level with no passengers or car sags with two passengers sitting in the back seat. Need more info.

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          • #6
            I agree with Alan. I just put a set 1966 Cruiser springs in my 63 Lark and to beef them up I added a used main leaf from a Dodge Dakota 4x4. Use the exisiting Dode hole for the assembly hole and cut the ends off the leaves. I usually just use another main leaf out of another set of Studebaker V8 springs, but did not have any loose ones left. Total bill $20 for the 2 mains at my local springs shop. I may have a little too much spring, but they will settle once it is back on the road, then time will tell!

            But, it all depends on what the issue is and what you need to accomplish.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by GeneC View Post
              I agree with Alan. I just put a set 1966 Cruiser springs in my 63 Lark and to beef them up I added a used main leaf from a Dodge Dakota 4x4. Use the exisiting Dode hole for the assembly hole and cut the ends off the leaves. I usually just use another main leaf out of another set of Studebaker V8 springs, but did not have any loose ones left. Total bill $20 for the 2 mains at my local springs shop. I may have a little too much spring, but they will settle once it is back on the road, then time will tell!

              But, it all depends on what the issue is and what you need to accomplish.

              The car sags in the back . I just want the rear end to be level with the front or slightly higher. I won't be racing thanks

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              • #8
                JC Whitney used to list and overload leaf. I used them on the 54 and they work just fine.
                If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

                65 2dr sedan
                64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
                61 V8 Tcab
                63 Tcab 20R powered
                55 Commander Wagon
                54 Champion Wagon
                46 Gibson Model A
                50 JD MC
                45 Agricat
                67 Triumph T100
                66 Bultaco Matadore

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                • #9
                  I tried those helper springs too. I think I got mine from Autozone.
                  With my car the trunk is rusty so the rear body of the car had settled down. It looked like the springs are sagging but they're not. You might want to check yours out if it has rust. A friend told me about mine asking if I had trouble getting the gas cap off since the bumper gets in the way.
                  Last edited by Bordeaux Daytona; 04-03-2015, 08:44 AM.

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                  • #10
                    I added an extra leaf to my existing springs and brought the rear up to where I wanted it. The nice thing is that, if the spring bushings are good, you don't even have to remove the main spring from the car. Just separate the spring pack, add a spring slightly shorter than the main leaf, and reassemble.
                    sigpic

                    "In the heart of Arkansas."
                    Searcy, Arkansas
                    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                    1952 2R pickup

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
                      I added an extra leaf to my existing springs and brought the rear up to where I wanted it. The nice thing is that, if the spring bushings are good, you don't even have to remove the main spring from the car. Just separate the spring pack, add a spring slightly shorter than the main leaf, and reassemble.
                      Thanks that is what I will do ( put in a new leaf). I don't believe the body is rusty but I will check. I believe my main spring is almost straight. I like the idea of not taking the main leaf off but I will check the bushings and change them if needed. I do appreciate the help I get here on the forum.

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                      • #12
                        If you have to change the bushings I only know of one way that works for that.......remove the spring and light the bushing on fire with a torch.
                        If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

                        65 2dr sedan
                        64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
                        61 V8 Tcab
                        63 Tcab 20R powered
                        55 Commander Wagon
                        54 Champion Wagon
                        46 Gibson Model A
                        50 JD MC
                        45 Agricat
                        67 Triumph T100
                        66 Bultaco Matadore

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by studebakerkid View Post
                          If you have to change the bushings I only know of one way that works for that.......remove the spring and light the bushing on fire with a torch.
                          thanks for all the suggestions Happy Easter

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                          • #14
                            Hey Bill-
                            I had the same sagging rear end that bottomed out with my 2 teenagers in the back, so I removed the springs and had them re-arced at a local spring shop, and had them add a small leaf. This worked and the ride is excellent, but still sits 1" too high in the back, even after 8 years. If I am too bothered by this in the future I can always add a lowering block (or sand bag in the trunk!) but for now I'm just enjoying the excellent ride. BTW when (if) you replace the spring bushings prepare to use many swear words!

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