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  • bonehead007
    replied
    I'm using Dupont epoxy primer sealer & hardner...I had to sand down the top because there wer way too many holes/pinpricks in the paint..I'm doing it in class so, when I go to prime it there are 2 ovens plus all the gear to paint. He does insist on masks/resperators when painting, I do it out of safety..The paint on the car is the original paint..Its too worn in some areas & has the same blisters in others..Right now I have the hood off & am using it for practice/learning..I'll see how it comes out next week

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  • bonehead007
    replied
    I'm using Dupont epoxy primer sealer & hardner...I had to sand down the top because there wer way too many holes/pinpricks in the paint..I'm doing it in class so, when I go to prime it there are 2 ovens plus all the gear to paint. He does insist on masks/resperators when painting, I do it out of safety..The paint on the car is the original paint..Its too worn in some areas & has the same blisters in others..Right now I have the hood off & am using it for practice/learning..I'll see how it comes out next week

    Leave a comment:


  • 52 Ragtop
    replied
    I have always used the idea that, old paint is a better base then new primer! In other words, if the old paint is sticking, and not peeling or blistering, block sand it and feather it out. the seal and prime.
    When I painted my Avanti in 1981, I used 80 grit on my straight line sander and blocked the old paint down/off. I did not remove all of the old paint! There was only the factory paint and 1 other paint job. Once I had it blocked and any cracks etc repaied. i sprayed 2 coats of the eliminator on it. Blocked that with 220 grit wet, then 2 coats of primer (lacquer at the time) mostly to fill the 220 scratches, then blocked with 400 wet, and painted it. 26 years later, it's still a 15 footer, and most of that is from being outside for a summer.
    I plan on a repaint this winter.
    The link John posted looks like it's about the same as the Morton Eliminator, just another name, but a "true" spray gel coat it's not.
    Although the price is comparable! I checked with our paint supplier, Finishmaster, and they tell me the Morton Paint Eliminator is still available. I have used the Eliminator and not a comprable product, so take that in stride.
    As far as pinholes and filling fiberglas edges, you need a GOOD 2 part epoxy primer, my vote goes to the Eliminator, but that's me.

    Be sure to wear proper protection when spraying ANY type of catalized paint!!! it CAN kill you!!

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • 52 Ragtop
    replied
    I have always used the idea that, old paint is a better base then new primer! In other words, if the old paint is sticking, and not peeling or blistering, block sand it and feather it out. the seal and prime.
    When I painted my Avanti in 1981, I used 80 grit on my straight line sander and blocked the old paint down/off. I did not remove all of the old paint! There was only the factory paint and 1 other paint job. Once I had it blocked and any cracks etc repaied. i sprayed 2 coats of the eliminator on it. Blocked that with 220 grit wet, then 2 coats of primer (lacquer at the time) mostly to fill the 220 scratches, then blocked with 400 wet, and painted it. 26 years later, it's still a 15 footer, and most of that is from being outside for a summer.
    I plan on a repaint this winter.
    The link John posted looks like it's about the same as the Morton Eliminator, just another name, but a "true" spray gel coat it's not.
    Although the price is comparable! I checked with our paint supplier, Finishmaster, and they tell me the Morton Paint Eliminator is still available. I have used the Eliminator and not a comprable product, so take that in stride.
    As far as pinholes and filling fiberglas edges, you need a GOOD 2 part epoxy primer, my vote goes to the Eliminator, but that's me.

    Be sure to wear proper protection when spraying ANY type of catalized paint!!! it CAN kill you!!

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied
    Theres a soda blaster in the Eastwood catalog..Read some info on it..My 1st time doing body work so, I'm taking my time and trying to get as much info as possible on the best ways to do it. The instructor is about 25yrs teaching , I'm sure he's also set in his ways..The only trouble I'd have with the soda blasting is space. I have a 2 car garage and both my Avanti & Hawk are in it. Unfortunatley, property and space in Nrthrn NJ are at a premium so my work area is limited..

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  • bonehead007
    replied
    Theres a soda blaster in the Eastwood catalog..Read some info on it..My 1st time doing body work so, I'm taking my time and trying to get as much info as possible on the best ways to do it. The instructor is about 25yrs teaching , I'm sure he's also set in his ways..The only trouble I'd have with the soda blasting is space. I have a 2 car garage and both my Avanti & Hawk are in it. Unfortunatley, property and space in Nrthrn NJ are at a premium so my work area is limited..

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  • rockne10
    replied
    The shops I've talked to strip paint from fibreglass by soda blasting; haven't been there, haven't done that.

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  • rockne10
    replied
    The shops I've talked to strip paint from fibreglass by soda blasting; haven't been there, haven't done that.

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied
    Called the instructor this am & aked about the gel coating. Said he's never tried it and that my hood looked ok, no pitting, digging, etc from the sanding so, .. Have to take my trunk lid off and bring it to the store for them to match the paint..Have to admit, its a good learning experience...took me 2 classes to get the hood sanded down ..

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied
    Called the instructor this am & aked about the gel coating. Said he's never tried it and that my hood looked ok, no pitting, digging, etc from the sanding so, .. Have to take my trunk lid off and bring it to the store for them to match the paint..Have to admit, its a good learning experience...took me 2 classes to get the hood sanded down ..

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied
    I used 100 & wet sanded with 220 to get off as much old paint & primer on top..The bottom I was able to get most of the glue off and paint. The reason I had to do the top was that it was pitted down to the fiberglass. Dozens of small holes/bubbles..

    I have Dupont light grey epoxy primer sealer with hardner..I was going to try to paint just the bottom, leave the top prime until, if ever, I get the rest of the car done..

    I'm actually doing this in a body shop class so, I'm trying to get the best idea in getting it done right..Someone had mentioned to me about a fiberglass paint stripper but, the instructor said he's seen too many things go wrong with it. As far as the fiberglass, it looks smooth, no cuts at all into it..


    Appreciate the help/suggestions.. I'll ask him about the spray gel coat.

    Leave a comment:


  • bonehead007
    replied
    I used 100 & wet sanded with 220 to get off as much old paint & primer on top..The bottom I was able to get most of the glue off and paint. The reason I had to do the top was that it was pitted down to the fiberglass. Dozens of small holes/bubbles..

    I have Dupont light grey epoxy primer sealer with hardner..I was going to try to paint just the bottom, leave the top prime until, if ever, I get the rest of the car done..

    I'm actually doing this in a body shop class so, I'm trying to get the best idea in getting it done right..Someone had mentioned to me about a fiberglass paint stripper but, the instructor said he's seen too many things go wrong with it. As far as the fiberglass, it looks smooth, no cuts at all into it..


    Appreciate the help/suggestions.. I'll ask him about the spray gel coat.

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    I used this spray gel coat on my Avanti to seal loose strands from sanding.





    http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...RID=BAN_Beyond

    JDP/Maryland
    64 R2 GT cost to date
    $60,222.25
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Lark 2 door
    59 Scotsman
    54 Starlight
    52 Starliner
    51 Commander
    39 Coupe express
    39 Coupe express (rod)

    Leave a comment:


  • JDP
    replied
    I used this spray gel coat on my Avanti to seal loose strands from sanding.





    http://www.zip-products.com/Zip/prod...RID=BAN_Beyond

    JDP/Maryland
    64 R2 GT cost to date
    $60,222.25
    63 GT Hawk
    63 Lark 2 door
    59 Scotsman
    54 Starlight
    52 Starliner
    51 Commander
    39 Coupe express
    39 Coupe express (rod)

    Leave a comment:


  • 52 Ragtop
    replied
    you can not gel coat fiberglas after it's cured! Gelcoat will only kick by reaction to the fiberglas curing.
    BUT, you can use Morton Paint "Eliminator" a fiberglas resin with gray color pigment added. If you use it, use a GOOD paint mask!!! NOT a paper one! and, cover everything that you do not want coated with gray "rock hard" overspray.
    Be sure to clean the spray gun out imeadiately after you are done, otherwise, toss it in the trash.
    Eliminator is Morton paints brand, about $100 a gallon, there is another on Feather Fill, but I have no personal experience with that.
    DuPont or PPG, they are both a good product, be sure to use the proper reducers and hardners with either one, IE: DuPont with DuPont, PPG with PPG. Mixing and matching is not a good idea. If you are going single stage, I'd use Centauri (DuPont) as it sprays almost like a lacquer. Bur again, a GOOD mask, preferably a "fresh air mask" but, a good charcoal mask will be ok too. Keep the mask in a sealed bag (ziplock) when not in use.
    BTW, once the "Eliminator" is on, dry sanding is almost impossible, but, it wetsands very easily. I use 320-400 grit wet and spray over that. Don't use anything finer then 400, as the surface will not be "course" enough for a good adheasion for the paint.

    Jim

    Leave a comment:

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