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I am looking at a 1962 Lark sedan.

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  • 54-61-62
    replied
    Don't know where you are but I have a rot-free 62 California Lark 4Dr with no drivetrain here in Michigan, $600 if your intrested. It would be cheaper then fixing your doors or floors.

    Kent

    Leave a comment:


  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    I was looking at a 305 due to it being a bit better on gas than a 350; and in a lightweight car in front of a 700R4, it would be plenty fast enough

    As for the distributor clearance issue; the FI motors use a narrower one vs. the vacuum advance assemblies.

    And I vastly prefer TBI over any carburetor due to its simplicity.......unlike Tuned Port and similar MPI systems.

    4.3L is a good motor but it would have all of the clearence issues vs. a SBC.......it would just have more radiator room. Besides, I like the 'V8' sound........

    Leave a comment:


  • 1962larksedan
    replied
    I was looking at a 305 due to it being a bit better on gas than a 350; and in a lightweight car in front of a 700R4, it would be plenty fast enough

    As for the distributor clearance issue; the FI motors use a narrower one vs. the vacuum advance assemblies.

    And I vastly prefer TBI over any carburetor due to its simplicity.......unlike Tuned Port and similar MPI systems.

    4.3L is a good motor but it would have all of the clearence issues vs. a SBC.......it would just have more radiator room. Besides, I like the 'V8' sound........

    Leave a comment:


  • Swifster
    replied
    Another couple of issues. In regards to a 305 or other SBC, keep in mind older cars such as the Studebaker were not made with an HEI distributor in mind. You may find that the distributor may be right against the firewall. Also, isn't this an EFI engine? You'd have to find a way to mount the computer and merge the two wiring harnesses.

    With the 305 considered by Chevy lovers to be a boat anchor, you might want to look at using a 4.3L V6. These are easily converted to carburetor with Edelbrock intakes/carbs, and as with any SBC, an aftermarket distributor should fit with good firewall clearance. Just a suggestion, as the 700R4 would bolt up to it, it's a lighter engine, and it makes roughly the same horsepower. Just some suggestions. That 4.3L would use the same motor mount brackets as a SBC. The trans mount would have to be fabricated no matter which engine you use.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Valrico, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

    Leave a comment:


  • Swifster
    replied
    Another couple of issues. In regards to a 305 or other SBC, keep in mind older cars such as the Studebaker were not made with an HEI distributor in mind. You may find that the distributor may be right against the firewall. Also, isn't this an EFI engine? You'd have to find a way to mount the computer and merge the two wiring harnesses.

    With the 305 considered by Chevy lovers to be a boat anchor, you might want to look at using a 4.3L V6. These are easily converted to carburetor with Edelbrock intakes/carbs, and as with any SBC, an aftermarket distributor should fit with good firewall clearance. Just a suggestion, as the 700R4 would bolt up to it, it's a lighter engine, and it makes roughly the same horsepower. Just some suggestions. That 4.3L would use the same motor mount brackets as a SBC. The trans mount would have to be fabricated no matter which engine you use.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Tom - Valrico, FL

    1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1755.45)

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    Howdy and welcome! I'm by no means an expert, but I'll tell you what I know and let the better men fill in the gaps

    There's no straight bolt-in alternative to the Stude drivetrain, although a small-block Chev is as easy as any. Studebakers actually used Chevy-based engines in 1965-'66, so it might be possible to track down the required frame mount adapters and such.

    Disc brake kits specifically for converting Studebakers are readily available from Turner Brakes and others; power steering is another thing altogether. Studes never had a true "power steering" setup like other makes; it was more of a "power assist" using a hydraulic ram to assist the steering effort. It might be tough to track down a functioning setup. On the other hand, a Studebaker with a good front end has very moderate steering effort, so you might find you don't need PS after all.

    The body rot is more of a concern, though. If the door bottoms are rotted out, and especially if the glass seals have failed, it's a good bet that the floor and trunk are in a bad way as well. The front of the floor is essential to body integrity, since the front doors depend upon the A-pillar being solidly connected to the floor; if the floor is bad, the rest of the body structure is compromised. However, Classic Enterprises does make reproduction floor and trunk pans that a good welder can fit in.

    Cheers!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com - my blog
    www.studebakersandiego.com - San Diego Chapter website

    Leave a comment:


  • showbizkid
    replied
    Howdy and welcome! I'm by no means an expert, but I'll tell you what I know and let the better men fill in the gaps

    There's no straight bolt-in alternative to the Stude drivetrain, although a small-block Chev is as easy as any. Studebakers actually used Chevy-based engines in 1965-'66, so it might be possible to track down the required frame mount adapters and such.

    Disc brake kits specifically for converting Studebakers are readily available from Turner Brakes and others; power steering is another thing altogether. Studes never had a true "power steering" setup like other makes; it was more of a "power assist" using a hydraulic ram to assist the steering effort. It might be tough to track down a functioning setup. On the other hand, a Studebaker with a good front end has very moderate steering effort, so you might find you don't need PS after all.

    The body rot is more of a concern, though. If the door bottoms are rotted out, and especially if the glass seals have failed, it's a good bet that the floor and trunk are in a bad way as well. The front of the floor is essential to body integrity, since the front doors depend upon the A-pillar being solidly connected to the floor; if the floor is bad, the rest of the body structure is compromised. However, Classic Enterprises does make reproduction floor and trunk pans that a good welder can fit in.

    Cheers!


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com - my blog
    www.studebakersandiego.com - San Diego Chapter website

    Leave a comment:


  • 1962larksedan
    started a topic I am looking at a 1962 Lark sedan.

    I am looking at a 1962 Lark sedan.

    Greetings from a newbie here:

    I am looking at a 1962 Stude Lark 4 door sedan missing its engine.

    Car was equipped with a Six, 3 spd, and OD from what the owner told me.

    Long story short; is there a later model motor/trans combo that would be reasonably easy to swap in there?

    I was thinking a 305 Chevy TBI and 700R4 AT from a ca. 1990 Chevy pickup which would allow me to keep the present rear end (for now), it appears to be a Dana 27(?).

    Body is OK; the bottoms of all 4 doors are rusted and the windshield gasket is so rotted that the glass is literally peeling away from the basic body.

    Also; any ideas on disc brakes and/or power steering?

    I am looking at making this thing into a daily driver.
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