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Another endorsement for electrolysis tanks

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  • Another endorsement for electrolysis tanks

    Over the years I've read all the threads about those that are using an electrolysis bucket/tank to remove rust from parts and always meant to try it. Well, I finally made one to clean up a rusty window regulator and a pair of door hinges. I got my soda ash from a pool supply store and stole a tall 7 gallon bucket from my neighbor. 4 rebar rods, some copper wire and an old battery charger and I was in business. I used the 2 amp setting and just let 'er do its thing for two days (regulator) and another couple days for the hinges. IT WORKS! Removed every speck of rust from the items. All I had to do was brush 'em off, rinse 'em and rattle can a coat of paint...just like you guys said. Really easy AND CHEAP!



    sigpic
    Bob Shaw
    Rush City, Minnesota
    1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
    "The farther I go, the behinder I get."


  • #2
    Sweet, I love it when a Plan works! Looks great Bob.

    Soda Ash instead of Arm and Hammer Laundry Super Washing Soda? ...Same thing?
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
      Sweet, I love it when a Plan works! Looks great Bob.

      Soda Ash instead of Arm and Hammer Laundry Super Washing Soda? ...Same thing?
      Same thing...sodium carbonate.
      sigpic
      Bob Shaw
      Rush City, Minnesota
      1960 Hawk - www.northstarstudebakers.com
      "The farther I go, the behinder I get."

      Comment


      • #4
        Just another trick. I used a piece of new brakeline across the top of the bucket for one electrode, hung everything from wire hooks.

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        • #5
          I'm curious if anyone was done this process, but not by immersion. Here in California cars often rust from the inside out. The underside of floors will look fine, but water trapped under carpet will rot them from the inside.

          Say, for instance, a section of a floor is rusted (but not ruined). If the factory holes were plugged, the soda ash and water solution was filled into the floor depression and the sacrificial iron was insulated from the floor would the process still work? It would sure make for a lot less labor, noise and dust from sandblasting.

          Tom
          '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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          • #6
            Sacrificial isn't the right word, no metal is replaced. The existing surface of the metal is cleaned of corrosion.

            Process as described above might work, but you might want to use chicken wire as one electrode, enough ReBar might collapse the floor.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by wittsend View Post
              I'm curious if anyone was done this process, but not by immersion. Here in California cars often rust from the inside out. The underside of floors will look fine, but water trapped under carpet will rot them from the inside.

              Say, for instance, a section of a floor is rusted (but not ruined). If the factory holes were plugged, the soda ash and water solution was filled into the floor depression and the sacrificial iron was insulated from the floor would the process still work? It would sure make for a lot less labor, noise and dust from sandblasting. Tom
              Yes, sort of. The process works by shortest distance between the electrodes. If one could somehow use wire mesh as the electrode, suspending it all across the floor without touching, it might work.

              No, just putting one electrode in the floor would only clean at that point.

              Maybe, try it on a small scale on one side of the car. Problem is, when one gets to the driver's side floor, it's like swiss cheese when new. Waterproofing all the factory holes would be next to impossible, much less the rust holes.

              jack vines
              PackardV8

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