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Picked up my paint today

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  • Picked up my paint today

    Got the Congo Ivory Monday and the Pimlico Gray this afternoon. Both are Deltron DBU. The Ivory has a consistency look/feel like it will be a joy to apply. The Gray however, looks like it could be a bear. It's a metallic with 3 pearls in it and at first glance appears to blend like water and oil. I'm willing to be impressed after reducer is added but tonight I'm skeptical.

  • #2
    If the Paint mix is correct and the application all done the same direction, that Pearl Metallic Gray with a Maroon Pearl glow should look FANTASTIC on your Car.
    I hope it comes out well, I love that Pimlico Gray!
    Can I ask what a Gallon of that costs nowadays, I am sitting down and took a blood pressure pill!
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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    • #3
      PPG prices went up 5% on Monday!

      My total paint package including epoxy sealer, primer surfacer, DBU base, Concept Clear and all hardners and reducers will be about $1,050. The Ivory was $110 a quart and Gray was $132 a quart.

      Like everything else... I'd rather do it myself. If I have a run that I can't sand out or need to re-shoot a panel so be it. I'm after a high driver that I can put 10,000 to 15,000 miles a year on and cause 50 accidents a year by distracting other drivers who've never seen a Speedster or a Studebaker before. Although I don't expect a show car, I've had great success in driveway base/clear coat paint jobs. Clear coat is very forgivable with patience, a piece of paint stick and wet sandpaper.

      PS... Better add $300 for product I had on the shelf.
      Last edited by mmagic; 08-27-2013, 09:48 PM.

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      • #4
        Just my opinion,but the dbc is 10 times better stuff,and I don't think it costs any more,and it's easier to use. Plus,you can return unused,reduced color to the can and save it. [don't do that with dbu,it will all harden in the can] What clear are you using?
        Oglesby,Il.

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        • #5
          Yes, dbc is much better and I tried to use it but the only formula I had or they could locate for the Pimlico gray was dbu. I even had to go to their competitor to get it mixed because Painter Supply, a larger Denver shop, has dropped dbu because they don't like it either.

          Concept..dcu2021
          Last edited by mmagic; 08-28-2013, 05:59 PM.

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          • #6
            I can't believe how much the price of auto paint has increased. Certain red colors are now over $200.00 a PINT. (I can't believe that either...but our paint salesman told Me that a few weeks ago) All I can say is.........DON'T SPILL IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

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            • #7
              Ya red has always been more pricey,and I seem to remember a few years ago Ford had a red that could only be bought per VIN # and per bodyshop estimate.they did not want that color getting to the custom guys and such ?
              Joseph R. Zeiger

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              • #8
                Make sure that DBU has totally flashed before applying the clear or it will tiger stripe. Remember the flash time is much longer than DBC.
                Last edited by bezhawk; 08-28-2013, 08:07 PM.
                Bez Auto Alchemy
                573-318-8948
                http://bezautoalchemy.com


                "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                • #9
                  not sure if u have shot metallic before from your post.
                  In our shop we apply 3 coats of base metallic, then dance around the car with the gun going in all random directions, with the gun further away from the panels, else you will get stripes in the metallic. and you won't see this until after it is cleared.
                  1947 M5 under restoration
                  a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 63t-cab View Post
                    Ya red has always been more pricey,...
                    True red used to be higher priced because it relied on the crimson derived from the cochineal scale insect.
                    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cochineal
                    "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

                    Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tbirdtbird View Post
                      not sure if u have shot metallic before from your post.
                      In our shop we apply 3 coats of base metallic, then dance around the car with the gun going in all random directions, with the gun further away from the panels, else you will get stripes in the metallic. and you won't see this until after it is cleared.
                      Who? Me???
                      I was commenting that DBU is not an easy paint, it may look ready to clear, but it will move on you if you get on it too soon with clear. I have painted many thousands of cars metallic and pearls (over 30+ years).
                      Bez Auto Alchemy
                      573-318-8948
                      http://bezautoalchemy.com


                      "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                      • #12
                        haha no my comment was directed at the OP
                        1947 M5 under restoration
                        a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for the encouragement... I'm never was a very good dancer but I'll practice tonight and take your advice.

                          That can looks like a mix of oil and water and I was already looking forward to the experience. Yes, it will be my first metalic.... other than the 10,000 propane tanks I shot aluminum paint 50 years ago!

                          Hey... it's only paint and I'm always game for a new experience.

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                          • #14
                            OK, there is a lot at stake here: the cost of the paint and the quality of the paint job...
                            strongly suggest you spray out a test panel or 2' sq piece of sheet metal or something....then clear it w/ one coat of clear and see what you have

                            to get rid of the lines i speak of takes laying on a fair amount of material ; remember, hold the gun farther away and turn the pressure up to atomize it more
                            1947 M5 under restoration
                            a bunch of non-Stude stuff

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                            • #15
                              With non-metalic I normally spray at about 10" distance 55# to 60# going into the gun with about an 8" fan. I normally make about 4 to 6 light coats around the vehicle with about 10 to 15 minute flash point equal to the time takes me to get around the vehilce ... this sounds like I need to wait a bit longer between passes.

                              I like to add a touch of reducer to the last coat of clear to help level it out.

                              Talk to me on what to do different.

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