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  • #16
    I run a Inest-Iwata HVLP @ 12-17lbs at the cap. Approx 35# inlet. 3 medium wet coats pull back slightly and speed up on last coat for even metallic let flash at least 20-25 minutes between coats, let flash about 45 to 1 hour before clearing. Tack and nib with 1000 grit, and dx330 as a lubricant. (before clearing). Use a good base type tack cloth that wont leave sticky residue. I like dt885 reducer so it lays down a little better.
    Make sure your paint gun air vent is clean and open, or it will spray like sand. DBU does some wierd things. DCU clear likes good airflow so vent well and keep booth going after it's tacked, or if you bake, run the booth an additional hour cool after baking.
    Last edited by bezhawk; 08-29-2013, 06:09 PM.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #17
      Brad, you are putting a final coat of metallic on after "tack and nib with 1000 grit right"
      Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
      I run a Inest-Iwata HVLP @ 12-17lbs at the cap. Approx 35# inlet. 3 medium wet coats pull back slightly and speed up on last coat for even metallic let flash at least 20-25 minutes between coats, let flash about 45 to 1 hour before clearing. Tack and nib with 1000 grit, and dx330 as a lubricant. (before clearing). Use a good base type tack cloth that wont leave sticky residue. I like dt885 reducer so it lays down a little better.
      Make sure your paint gun air vent is clean and open, or it will spray like sand. DBU does some wierd things. DCU clear likes good airflow so vent well and keep booth going after it's tacked, or if you bake, run the booth an additional hour cool after baking.
      Joseph R. Zeiger

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      • #18
        Originally posted by 63t-cab View Post
        Brad, you are putting a final coat of metallic on after "tack and nib with 1000 grit right"
        Using the wax & grease remover instead of water keeps the scratches 'invisible'. keep the area as small as possible. Use very light pressure. Clear will blend sanding dullness soit wont show. This is catylized base DBU, very different than newer base that just uses a reducer.
        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-318-8948
        http://bezautoalchemy.com


        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

        Comment


        • #19
          And it still does not mess up the metallic pattern ?
          Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
          Using the wax & grease remover instead of water keeps the scratches 'invisible'. keep the area as small as possible. Use very light pressure. Clear will blend sanding dullness soit wont show. This is catylized base DBU, very different than newer base that just uses a reducer.
          Joseph R. Zeiger

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by 63t-cab View Post
            And it still does not mess up the metallic pattern ?
            Not if you use extremely light pressure, and just nib it, and keep the area tiny. It is not like regular base. The DBU catylist acts like a fixative, and the dx330 keeps the paper from loading up and scratching.
            Bez Auto Alchemy
            573-318-8948
            http://bezautoalchemy.com


            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

            Comment


            • #21
              "Reactive Reducer" must be code for "catalyzed". I'm beginning to look forward to the entire seal, prime, block, painting part of the project. This has been very good information. Fortunately the shell on this car is very solid and has no rust to contend with. The front clip... not so nice. I've on occasion lightly wet sanded DBC with 2000 grit and was contemplating if it would benefit or harm metallic. I like your suggested method.

              The biggest take away ..... SLOW DOWN !!

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